• Required reading for all forum users!!!

    Welcome!
    Register to access the full functionality of the GSResources forum. Until you register and activate your account you will not have full forum access, nor will you be able to post or reply to messages.

    A note to new registrants...
    All new forum registrations must be activated via email before you have full access to the forum.

    A Special Note about Email accounts!
    DO NOT SIGN UP USING hotmail, outlook, gmx, sbcglobal, att, bellsouth or email.com. They delete our forum signup emails.

    A note to old forum members...
    I receive numerous requests from people who can no longer log in because their accounts were deleted. As mentioned in the forum FAQ, user accounts are deleted if you haven't logged in for the past 6 months. If you can't log in, then create a new forum account. If you don't get an error message, then check your email account for an activation message. If you get a message stating that the email address is already in use, then your account still exists so follow the instructions in the forum FAQ for resetting your password.

    Have you forgotten your password or have a new email address? Then read the forum FAQ for details on how to reset it.

    Any email requests for "can't log in anymore" problems or "lost my password" problems will be deleted. Read the forum FAQ and follow the instructions there - that's what we have one for...

  • Returning Visitors

    If you are a returning visitor who never received your confirmation email, then odds are your email provider is blockinig emails from our server. The only thing that can be done to get around this is you will have to try creating another forum account using an email address from another domain.

    If you are a returning visitor to the forum and can't log in using your old forum name and password but used to be able to then chances are your account is deleted. Purges of the databases are done regularly. You will have to create a new forum account and you should be all set.

Inlets - With Pics

  • Thread starter Thread starter Showtime
  • Start date Start date
S

Showtime

Guest
Had some excellent info from site members so far which has been a tremendous help so far.. Starter problem (seperate thread) now sorted.

Carbs, Getting better but not yet vacuum balanced (I'll come back to that) BUT !!

I'm thinking that from reading previous threads on inlets and the so so sensitive nature of airbox being sealed, new filter etc etc.. that the ones on my bike are indeed toast ! .. and likely the 'O' Rings are also beyond serviceable... I did spray carb cleaner around them when the engine was running and it made no difference to the idle, just to see if they were leaking, but seemed ok

However I cannot get them off in situ because the screws wont budge and I cannot get an impact screwdriver anywhere near. So only option is to remove the engine (unless you can tell me different )

Valued opinion needed before I spend out on new ones..



 
Well, you obviously have to remove the CARBS first, but the engine can stay. :-\\\

What bike?

Once the carbs are out, you can use a hand impact driver. What? No room to swing a hammer? No problem. Remove the head of the driver, you will see a 3/8" square drive, just like the one in your socket set. Grab a few of the extensions, the driver can now be positioned where you can swing your hammer into it.
icon_thumbsup.gif


.
 
Usually you can get the hand impact driver onto the outer boots with no problems. The inner boot screws can be a little harder. You can do as Steve suggested and see if you can get a good whack at them. I've also found that, if you can get one screw out (top or bottom), you can tap/rotate the boot counter clockwise around the remaining screw and the other screw will turn with it. Once it breaks loose it's a piece of cake to get out. Replace the screws with cap screws and the next time will be much easier.

Note: From the last picture I see that the metal cap end seal is cut. Not a bid deal but could be a source of an air leak if the seals weak.
 
Last edited:
Steve said:
Well, you obviously have to remove the CARBS first, but the engine can stay. :-\\\

What bike?

GS450S .. ahem my mistake.. would have been useful :)


Once the carbs are out, you can use a hand impact driver. What? No room to swing a hammer? No problem. Remove the head of the driver, you will see a 3/8" square drive, just like the one in your socket set. Grab a few of the extensions, the driver can now be positioned where you can swing your hammer into it.
icon_thumbsup.gif


.
Click to expand...

Genius.. now I know why I ask first and act second.. Thanks Steve I'll give that a bash.. (did you see what I did there :D)

But as to the original question.. inlets.. Toast ? :confused:
 
Get a can of PB Blaster and spray those stupid screws for a day or two....then, get a pair of needle-nose vice grips. Get a good grip on one of the screws and "worry" it loose...in other words, just slightly move it back and forth until it breaks loose. Once one is out then rotate the boot counterclockwise to loosen the other side.....proceed to next boot.

Caution:: Be careful not to break the head off the screw. Good Luck !


.........or do what Steve said......LOL !!!!:)
 
Thanks all for the removal tips..

But... Should I remove/replace them, do they look knackered to you.. ?
 
There is an o-ring that seats against the head behind that boot that should be replaced. So, yes, remove them, replace the o-ring and throw those stupid screws away and get some socket head screws.
After you remove them, then they can be inspected properly to see if the boots themselves need replaced. :)
 
Thanks all, much appreciate the input.. Old ones will be gone and replaced
 
Learn from my mistake please ...

Learn from my mistake please ...

Be sure to look them over carefully...

One fella I know didn't do this prior to a reinstallation and the problem was found in the11th hour of a rejuvenation process...

It was almost enough to bring the project to a screeching halt and they were facing a very tight tie schedule to get it running.

Luckily the Lead Mechanic (Steve) had a few extras laying around which suited the project and saved the day (weekend).

Next time I will look at them much more closely... :-$ :oops: :-&
 
Larry D said:
Get a can of PB Blaster and spray those stupid screws for a day or two....
Click to expand...

Be careful with PB Blaster. It can eat through plastic/gaskets (as in, the cam chain tensioner right below there...). It's fine, just have some rags sitting underneath it.
 
Wingsconsin said:
Be sure to look them over carefully...

One fella I know didn't do this prior to a reinstallation and the problem was found in the11th hour of a rejuvenation process...

It was almost enough to bring the project to a screeching halt and they were facing a very tight tie schedule to get it running.

Luckily the Lead Mechanic (Steve) had a few extras laying around which suited the project and saved the day (weekend).

Next time I will look at them much more closely... :-$ :oops: :-&
Click to expand...

Thanks for the heads up on these things, clearly they are very sensitive, I'll just junk the originals and fit new ones along with replacement boots for the airbox.

Larry.. Thanks for the link.. I did get my 'O' Rings from Rob for the carbs and also ordered the ones fo the inlets..
 
I did it with PB blaster, and a 1/4 driver bit, socket and rachet. one of the heads i really screwed up and had to cut a slot into it.

needle nose vice grips when all else fails as well..

also i personally say antiseize the bolts you put back in, and a +1 on the cycle o-rings kit.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top