Inline fuel filter question

[woodsietx]

1981 GS 750E

I found this fuel filter in between the petcock and the carbs. Anyone recognize it? If so, any comments about it? It might be the reason I can't get my bike to start.

Thanks.

 

[Guest]

If it is clogged, yes. But that is the correct filter to use for our gravity fed systems.

 

[first timer]

those filters suck they never flow enough, i have had real good luck with the K & n pancake style fuel filters

http://www.knfilters.com/fuelfilter.htm

 

[ryonker]

1981 GS 750E

I found this fuel filter in between the petcock and the carbs. Anyone recognize it? If so, any comments about it? It might be the reason I can't get my bike to start.

Thanks.

You shouldn't really need a filter if the petcock is doing its job. Most decent petcocks have super fine filters on the intake stem.

Is your tank in bad shape on the inside? What is the status of your petcock? Is it the original one?

There are lots of potential reasons your bike might not be starting...getting gas is a good beginning point....followed by spark, etc.

Rick

 

[Larry D]

Take a good look inside the gas tank and see how clean it is. An inline filter should not be necessary IF the petcock filter is clean and the tank isn't trashed.

 

[rphillips]

I'm with them, The filter in the petcock is sufficent. Those inline things are more trouble than they are worth. Just my opinion.

 

[gs850cmc]

I agree, just replaced my petcock with a new OEM and I didn't realize that the old and new unit comes with a pretty nice filter already installed on it. As a result I removed my JC Whitney inline which I suspected of not giving me consistent fuel flow all the time.

Charlie
1980 GS850G...just about there

 

[woodsietx]

I appreciate the comments. I had no opinion on the filter. I found it in my fuel line. This bike is only three weeks new to me. I've another thread where I'm looking for advice on it's starting problems. I figured the quickest way to get an answer about the filter was to break it out of that other thread.

So these little filters are not something that can be cleaned correct? I'll have to replace it or the fuel line? I'm in favor of the fuel line myself.

The tank looks clean inside but it appears to have been coated with a light gray substance that's a little rough. I remember these tanks being bare metal inside. I didn't have the tools or facilities to drain the rest of the fuel out and then clean the tank and petcock. I'll try to do that later this week.

The other thread:
http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?t=145931

Thanks.

 

[woodman]

I use a Custom Chrome one that comes apart and has a bronze filter thats cleanable. Its small & nice looking and fits under the tank.

 

[woodsietx]

Couple new questions:

1. I have looked over many, many tank threads on here and I've learned that rock, washers and Eisenhower silver dollars are great for knocking out rust and that there are multiple ways to put a coat inside tank (as long as it doesn't have a hood) but I've yet to find suggestions for flushing a tank that isn't going to be sealed. What is the best material for ensuring the crud is out? Fresh gas? Water? etc... My tank has a light grey material inside the tank already.

2. As part of the above flushing, I'll have to pull the petcock out to clean the screen and check it's condition. I can't swear that it working right but I have no reason to think otherwise yet. If I take it apart, if I even can, without a rebuild kit in hand, am I in trouble? I'm considering just buying a new OEM and being done with it.

I have a new inline filter to replace the one I found in place. Most likely I'll get some hose and pull it out completely one day.

My goal here is to get everything I can do accomplished before I have to run to a mechanic for the carb work. I'd like to try my hand at rebuilding them myself but I don't have the facilities to do the work right. Somehow a gravel driveway doesn't seem appropriate. Unfortunately, the garage I have the bike in is also a nursery for 23 Great Dane puppies so there can't be chemical fumes in there.

Thanks for anything you can suggest.

Woodsie

 

[duaneage]

Phosphoric acid. Available in gallon jugs at Lowes or Home Despot.

It should be drained and aired out. Remove the petcock and seal the hole with a homemade plate and gasket. Pour the gallon inside and cap the tank. Swish around for about 10 minutes. Rest then do it again. Do it one more time. You can add sheet metal screws if you want agitation but they have to be fished out in the end.

Remove the petcock cap and drain the substance out. Flush out the tank with water hose real good to remove the acid and then airdry the tank with a hairdryer or compressed air.

Don't get the acid on the paint as it will discolor the finish.

Phosphoric acid is relatively benign but it will harm your eyes and nose. Do this outside and wear gloves anyway. From your description of gray metal I suspect it may have been done already but it is worth another shot. For coatings look at POR-15. Kreem did not work well for me and others on the forum.

 

[Gumbo76]

Filter

Filter

IMHO, if the filter on the petcock is still good, then the Inline filter is not necessary, but I have an inline K&N in place JUST IN CASE something happens to the Petcock filter ( Seam let go, or a tear). Chances are, if you are getting a clog in the petcock you wouldn't know until you pull it off.

If you have a gas can, you could always take the tank off, making sure the petcock is in the ON or Reserve position, remove the fuel line from your inline filter, place it in the can and turn your petcock to Prime, and you will drain your tank right into the gas can without any trouble. You may have some residual fuel left in the tank, but it will be minimal if you slosh your tank around a bit to get as much out as you can.

As far as parts to put your petcock back together, you can buy the diaphragm and other parts, but it might be easier to either buy a new one or find someone on this forum to buy a used one from. The guys on this forum are overall a bunch of great guys, and you'll probably find what ever you need right at a fraction of the cost of eBay and OEM parts stores.

As far as cleaning and rebuilding your carbs, I can;t imagine you will need a lot of EXTRA space to do this project, you'll want to do them one at a time (to prevent confusion). The most smelly part will be the Chemical Dipping. I bet it would be ok to do that in the driveway. And probably much safer too! I haven't had to do mine yet, but I can't imagine it would be hard to get the advice you need from the guys here. Once you get them rebuilt, you can probably do the rest of the adjustments yourself. Or at the very least get them Bench Synched and then ride to a service center to have them fine tune it.

I admire your willingness to do as much of the work yourself.:clap: It is economical, but most of all, you'll appreciate the end product so much more. You'll have plenty of battle scars to show off along the way too(like the 3" X 1.5" Exhaust burn I got on my leg tonight after my project was done!).

Well, there's my three cents worth. Not everyone will agree with me, but the beauty of this forum is that there are many experts, and they all have their own opinions. You just have to figure out which one you like most! Enjoy, and if there is anything I can do for you let me know. And don;t forget to check out BAssCliff's Website from that Welcome email he sent you. You might as well just bookmark it in your favorites now!

Good luck and more importantly, HAVE FUN!

-Gumbo

 

[tlepac]

I agree with all above but I would think that the inline filter is the least of your worries unless it is clogged. I have one just like it and it wasn't the culprit for me with any starting problems. In fact considering how bad my tank was before I cleaned it I kind of like it! May be just suspenders and belt kind of issue but I hate having to do Carbs again and again. Three times is enough in one year!!

 

[woodsietx]

Spent most of Sat. working through the fuel system. It looks like a potential petcock issue. In the first picture you can see half of the diaphragm spring laying below the diaphragm. Also take note of the condition of the petcock o-ring although it did not leak at all.

And how many of you think the fuel level wire needs replaced?

There is also a ring of some sort of sealer or paint around the petcock. This material also ringed the opening. I managed to scrape all of it out.

I rinsed the tank with some Berryman's B-12 and followed it up with a bottle of isopropyl alcohol. Here's the residue left on the petcock after the B-12.

I plan to purchase another petcock. I've got enough fuel line to remove the inline filter. When I was draining the tank, the fuel came out of the tank in a nice even flow when set to prime. Took the gas cap apart, and while a bit rusty looking, it wasn't filled with crap.

While I understand the risk of having to go through this again, I going to try using the tank after the work I've done since it's already been coated. Here's the inside.

I've posted more pictures in my second repair picture album.
http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/album.php?albumid=586

It appears the tank has been repainted.

Comments? Warnings? Laughter?

I desperately want to get this thing running.

Thanks everyone.

Woodsie

 

[woodsietx]

Since it appears I'll be another 2-3 weeks before I can get everything back together, what should I put in the dry tank while it sits? I put the gas cap and petcock back in their normal positions so it's not sitting exposed to the air.

Woodsie

 

[woodsietx]

Thanks JC. I have a new petcock already shipped. Once I put it on, that's what I'll do.

I need to pull the carbs first though. Once the gas is in it, it might actually run and I'll be tempted to let the carb work slide and go riding.

Woodsie