Installing a 90's Katana head on a GS1100

[RacingJake]

Got most of it together today, still need the ignition, nos lines and a few minor things.

This year I'm going as a 1166 bike, no bars either. It has parts from a 91 gixxer, 92 Gixxer and a 750 Katana. Pistons are 13.5-1 but who really knows what the compression will be with the small head. Pour oil all over the top of the head and so far no leaks. I used 2 o-rings on the front 2 center studs and so far so good.

The V&H pro pipe touches the frame down tubes from the number 1 cylinder, the exhaust ports do not come out as far as the 1100/1150 heads do.

Also I'll have to reset the float level again on the 38cv's cause they are tilted up more like they are supposed to be. Since I swapped out the lectrons with 38cv's my 1/4 turn throttle is now a 1/8 throttle.

The 530 chain seems to be working good, bike rolls alot easier.

The head doesn't look to bad I guess, if the block was painted black you wouldn't even notice it was different. If you look close you'll see the fogger's at the bottom of the manifolds. O yeah it took some oil and a hair dryer to get the 38 carbs on.

 

[rapidray]

How are you going to get oil to the cams? Ray.

 

[RacingJake]

I was thinking maybe through the case sides or just off the oil sending unit.

 

[lecroy]

Looks pretty good sitting on top. R U going to home make the oiler?

I use a small medical syringe to get the volumes to measure the CR.

 

[RacingJake]

Got it running today and no funny sounds coming from the head or any oil leaks around the studs or rear cam tunnel. I even back off the intake timing until I got 50 thousand clearance and 75 on the exhaust then locktight the bolts and torque them down to 20ft pounds.

Took a compression test and right now I'm at 275 psi on all four cylinders, I'm wondering what it could on been before I retarded the intake????? I guess it's C16 fuel for me now.

Next is the top end oiler, I did crank the engine over without the cams in and did see oil being pump up to the cams. Most likely I'll just build me one out of some fittings and line.

Got a feeling this thing is goin to haul some butt \\/

 

[lecroy]

I hate those stupid 9mm bolts. I have a wrench I ground down for them. If you ever find some cap screws for this let me know. I'll buy a bag.

I make about 170 which I think is close to stock. I am guessing you would blow the doors off me in the first 60' but then I would be hunting you. LOL

What did you end up using for cams?

 

[RacingJake]

Yeah that's how you turbo guys operate, just when we think we got it made you come screaming by 8O :lol:

These cams are stock Katana one's, for more performance I can buy a Gixxer intake cam and then move the Katana intake cam to the exhaust side.

 

[RacingJake]

Today I retarded the intake cam one whole tooth and now my compression is 225 on each cylinder. My electric starter didn't like that 275. I just back off the tensioner and was able to jump a tooth on the cam sprocket.

Now she cranks just like before with her annual brand new wal-mart battery

 

[lecroy]

A couple of 12V car batteries and a geared down car starter motor will solve that. You could still start it by yourself. Heck, if you were close by I would help out.

You know you have some compression when you start exploding the car batteries!!

 

[rapidray]

Jake, call Paul Cashio In La. He builds stock GS750 & 850 starters that will spin 14.0 to 1 GSs like they are STOCK compression! His # is 504-393-2260. His stuff WORKS & is only around $200.00 - $250.00! Ray.

 

[RacingJake]

That's a keeper... Thanks Ray

 

[80GS1000]

Simply THUGGISH looking dragbike, I love it. Looks like a junkyard dog waiting to kick your #$# if you get too close. Great looking bike. :-D

 

[RacingJake]

Thanks :twisted:

I got the NOS all hooked up, #20 fuel and #16 nos, should be around 36 extra hoursepower. Only thing left is the oiler.

 

[RacingJake]

A couple of 12V car batteries and a geared down car starter motor will solve that. You could still start it by yourself. Heck, if you were close by I would help out.

You know you have some compression when you start exploding the car batteries!!

I think what we need is a mechanical advance on the intake cam. Once the engine is starter it advance's the intake cam to a preset level. That way we all can have a push button bike's :idea:

 

[lecroy]

>I think what we need is a mechanical advance on the intake cam. Once the engine is starter it advance's the intake cam to a preset level. That way we all can have a push button bike's

I would really hate to give up the push button starter on my bike. It's never been a problem to roll the motor over on 24V. My friends drag bikes all run in the 300PSI cranking pressure range. They don't want the added weight plus they have a lot of volume to compress with these motors.

You know, a long long time ago, I went to visit New Departure Hyatt for a controller I was designing for them. This was in the early 90's late 80s. They showed me three things that they were working on. The first was a turbocharger that had variable vanes. This was the first of it's kind and developed by a company in Texas. It had another feature. No oil supply. It was self contained.

They also showed me a wheel bearing that has a position sensor built into it.

The last thing was something like what your talking about. This was a cam shaft that was made from two (or more) parts. They could change the cam profile and timing while the engine was running.

We have all seen the bearings and the VGTs, but I have yet to see a cam like this.

 

[RacingJake]

I think there some type of engine out there that has electro magnetic operated valve's. No need for camshafts or valve springs???

 

[RacingJake]

Here what all those nitrous line's look like.

 

[LarryT]

Jake what you need is a MSD retard box to retard when you start and retard when you hit that NOS

 

[RacingJake]

That would be nice too. I already have a msd retard box on my Falcon, works pretty good with TRW 12-1 pistons but since I spray about 275 it needs it more than my bike.

A few years ago I bolted a lever to my ignition plate that allows me to retard the timing manually when I'm sitting on the bike. I got 3 settings, one for starting (atdc), one for fuel only (36* btdc) and the last for nos (28* btdc)

It's simple as long as you don't forget to set it

 

[lecroy]

This is a much nicer setup IMO. I like how you moved the MSD to the side. I take it that the tank sits under the seat? Your track may not care, but its good safety to keep it in the frame rails anyway.

It was not that long ago and there was no retard. If you decide to go with retard, good luck. The cost was one thing, then try and find room for it.

Not so strange that the fixed advancers are normally marked at 28 and 34.