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Installing a DynoJet Kit

  • Thread starter Thread starter FlyingSteve
  • Start date Start date
F

FlyingSteve

Guest
So my DJ Kit just showed up and I was looking everything over... And conveniently there are no installation instructions. Which is awesome considering how much these kits are...

Anyway, I haven't fooled with installing the kit yet and so I just have a few quick questions.

1. How do you remove the old main air jets?
2. What the hell is the little tube of glue for?
3. The troubleshooting guide says that you must remove the "vent tubes". Does this mean that you just take the two hoses off the carbs, or that you literally separate the carbs and remove the plastic T's?

Thank you all!
 
Check here & see if your kit instructions are listed:

http://www.dynojet.com/jetkits/motorcycle/suzuki.aspx

We need to know what bike you have.


1. How do you remove the old main air jets?

They're the big, round, slot-headed brass things found on the bottom of the carbs when you remove the float bowls.

2. What the hell is the little tube of glue for?

Don't know - see the instructions


3. The troubleshooting guide says that you must remove the "vent tubes". Does this mean that you just take the two hoses off the carbs, or that you literally separate the carbs and remove the plastic T's

Just pull the 2 rubber hoses off - it reduces vent pressure & helps the carbs breathe better with the kit.
 
Check here & see if your kit instructions are listed:

http://www.dynojet.com/jetkits/motorcycle/suzuki.aspx

We need to know what bike you have.


1. How do you remove the old main air jets?

They're the big, round, slot-headed brass things found on the bottom of the carbs when you remove the float bowls.

2. What the hell is the little tube of glue for?

Don't know - see the instructions


3. The troubleshooting guide says that you must remove the "vent tubes". Does this mean that you just take the two hoses off the carbs, or that you literally separate the carbs and remove the plastic T's

Just pull the 2 rubber hoses off - it reduces vent pressure & helps the carbs breathe better with the kit.
those are the main fuel jets, not the main air jets
 
It's an 80 gs550... The main air jets are definitely not in the float bowls :)

On my way out the door to pick up lunch, I quick popped in the garage and looked at my carbs and I think I figured out the air jet question, but I'll have a look at the link you posted.
 
Last edited:
those are the main fuel jets, not the main air jets

I assume that the air jets are on the mouth of the carbs, the hole that is drilled on the right side? The left side of the carb mouth has an orifice in it that looks just like a main jet and it is threaded in the same... But the little pieces that my kit come with and the "tool" suggests that they get tapped into the hole on the right side of the carb mouth and the glue is used to make sure that they say in place.
 
From an ancient set of instructions for my GPz:
SECTION D
MAIN AIR CORRECTOR JET INSTALLATION
1) Position the carburetor assembly on the bench so the intake bells are facing up. (paraphasing) The main air port is on the lower right.
2) Locate the main air corrector jets and installation tool, supplied in your kit.
3) If you examine the corrector jets you will see that one end has a smaller hole than the other. Insert the air corrector jet into the main air port with the small hole first. Now take the installation tool and insert the machined end of the tool into the air corrector jet. With a small hammer lightly tap the air corrector jet into the air port until it wedges tightly. (shows pic of inserting jet into hole on lower right of carb. Carb has 4 holes showing upper left, lower left, upper right, lower right.)
4) Locate the bottle of RX100 adhesive supplied with the kit. (read label...)
5) Use the adhesive to seal the joint where the air corrector jet fits into the carb body, don't get any into the jet orifice. Blah, blah, blah.
 
Thanks koolaid, that is what I was thinking but I wanted some confirmation before I went and started hammering and gluing things into places lol.
 
What stage did you get Steve? Or part number? I have the stage 3 and the settings are as follows for DJ 3308. 83-86 gs550es kit.

Main jet DJ118 (Alt 114)
Needle Groove #2
ADJ washer position: above clip
Fuel mixture 1 turn

Notes:
1.Use smaller mains with restrictive street baffles
2.Always remove float bowl vent tubes
3.Its not uncommon to move the needle up or down 3 positions from the base settings to achieve full function
4. If you find noticeable loss of mileage, starts cold without choke, or is sluggish from 0-3k try removing the pilot air corrector. You can neutralize this by drilling out the dynojet jets a little larger if you can not pull the whole jet back out.
5.mixture jet screws are located on both sides of the choke plungers which is located on top front of the carbs.

And my inpromptu instructions.

Burn the dynojet instructions as the damn thing is maddening. All the pages are not in any order, the inserts refer to pages that dont exsist, and its plain going to drive you insane trying to find out which order if any they're in. Who ever designed the manual works for a government program that gives out money, or just plain needs shot in the face.

Dismantle your carbs. Just the topside should be fine where the slides are.

Replace the slide weights, needles, and needle spacer.

The needle grooves are starting from top to bottom 1,2,3, etc. Start at number 2.

Put the washers on top of the clip and reassemble.

The kit is supplied with a washer for half step adjustments.

Reassemble the upper portion of the carbs.

Flip the carbs so the intake (side by air filters) side is facing up.

The pilot air ports are the upper/inner most 2 holes. Use the supplied installation tool and drive them in flush, noting that theres a bevel on one side of the correctors, drive that side in first. Now use the adhesive and spread it lightly around the joint between the carbs and correctors, filling any gaps. Do not pitch the adhesive, you might need it for the next step.

If yor airfilters use the stock boots (like mine do), glue the filters to the airbox boots. make sure the side of the boots that went to the carbs still will attach to the carbs.

And thats that. Let it dry, then reassemble and trouble shoot.
 
Dan, the closest kit I could find for my '80 550, was the '82 550 katana. Same carbs and I am using the exhaust system from that bike as well, which I think gives a pretty good exhaust note and not too loud. The DJ Kit # is 3314.

I got everything installed fine... Some people say that the DJ main jet sizes don't correspond to a "real" value... Like Mikuni... But at least for my kit, that's BS because I measured the main jet and found that a Mikuni 150 jet is the same as the DJ 150 jet.

Now, I just need to wait for my complete engine gasket/seal set to show up today so I can put my valve cover back on and then I can take the bike out! This wait is maddening because the weather is so damn nice out.
 
Dan, the closest kit I could find for my '80 550, was the '82 550 katana. Same carbs and I am using the exhaust system from that bike as well, which I think gives a pretty good exhaust note and not too loud. The DJ Kit # is 3314.

I got everything installed fine... Some people say that the DJ main jet sizes don't correspond to a "real" value... Like Mikuni... But at least for my kit, that's BS because I measured the main jet and found that a Mikuni 150 jet is the same as the DJ 150 jet.

Now, I just need to wait for my complete engine gasket/seal set to show up today so I can put my valve cover back on and then I can take the bike out! This wait is maddening because the weather is so damn nice out.
a dynojet kit main jet is roughly 10 higher than a genuine mikuni jet. so a 150 DJ jet is equivalent to a 140 mikuni jet. google DJ V mikuni jets and you will see
 
I was basing my assumptions off of a main jet drill chart... Guess if I would've had a Mikuni 150 and a DJ 150 together, then I would have seen the difference. Still, not that is not that far off and from what I heard, DJ used some wacky ass numbers that were no where near Mikuni numbers.
 
... Some people say that the DJ main jet sizes don't correspond to a "real" value... Like Mikuni... But at least for my kit, that's BS because I measured the main jet and found that a Mikuni 150 jet is the same as the DJ 150 jet.

not true... mikuni is based on flow rate, dynojet are based on physical hole size. mikuni 150 = dynojet 160. dynojet 150 is between a mikuni 140/142.5
 
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