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Installing new fork seals and PS springs

B

Bert Patterson

Forum Mentor
Past Site Supporter
Billy (or anybody else),

If all goes as planned, a friend and I are installing new fork seals and Progressive fork springs on Saturday. I've read a lot of extremely helpful threads on this, but I have two questions that are specific to my bike. It's an '82 GS1100E.

1) Tom wants to make the tool for removing the damper ahead of time. What size nut does he need to weld up to hold the damper in place while unbolting it from the bottom? One of my books suggests cutting a rough taper on a piece of wooden dowel, and I understand how that may work, but it's probably better to have a tool made for the job.

2) When I bought the springs from MAW, it said that no spacer was required. Is this actually true?

I was hoping to do the simple spring replacement (forks on the bike), but last weekend I started getting the leak on the left fork, so.......not as easy.

Thanks, folks.
 
Re: Installing new fork seals and PS springs

Bert Patterson said:
1) Tom wants to make the tool for removing the damper ahead of time. What size nut does he need to weld up to hold the damper in place while unbolting it from the bottom? One of my books suggests cutting a rough taper on a piece of wooden dowel, and I understand how that may work, but it's probably better to have a tool made for the job.
Click to expand...


I can get you the size this evening if nobody else gets it to you before then.
FYI - I've used the wood idea on one set of forks. Had a 5/8" dowel and rounded/sharpened the end and it worked but slipped a few times in the process. The nut works much better.
 
19mm = 3/4"

19mm = 3/4"

My manual said to use a 19mm nut. I found that 19mm is exactly the same as 3/4". I don't know why I have two wrenches they are so exactly the same. You might try getting a 3/4" nut to stick half way out of the end of a socket. If the socket doesn't get in the way the nut should work. That way you dont have to weld anything up or modify any of your existing tools.

Use the old fork seal to drive down the new one. A fork seal tool would probably be a worth while investment. I didn't use one. I think one of my seals may not be seated all the way. Its still holding though.
 
Just looked at what I've been using and it's got a 3/4" nut on it (has to be 3/4", I doubt I would have had a 19mm nut sitting around :D ).
Anyway it works great. I put in on a shanked bolt and cranked it down into the shank to lock it there (didn't have another nut the same size).
Then send it down the fork tube on the end of an extension and rachet.
I was by myself so I layed the whole thing on the floor (on a towel for cushsioning). Set the rachet so it will push against the floor and turn the allen bolt in the bottom.
 
I believe your front end is basically the same as my old stock unit. I replaced bushings and seals years ago and didn't have the tool or bother to adapt anything. I just removed the socket cap (allen head) bolt from the bottom of the lower leg where the axle goes through on each leg. I didn't use anything to hold the damper. Everything came out and went back in just fine.
 
Glad you started this thread on the front fork seals, because I'm fixing to do the samething my GS1000g & haven't had a chance to get a service book for myself.


I guess the GS1000G also has to have a " special " tool replace the seals.
 
You can also use the hex end of a 5/8 spark plug socket and a long extension
 
Thanks for the help. Anyone know about the spacer for the springs?

Fork was leaking oil through the weekend. Yesterday there was no leak. Either it sealed itself (seems unlikely) or it's about out of oil (unpleasant thought). I may not wait for Tom and his garage over the weekend - might try it myself tomorrow morning.
 
Just make sure all the sludge is out.

Just make sure all the sludge is out.

Get rid of all that sludge. Take your time and get every thing cleaned out. Use a flash lite to see if all the sludge is out of the tubes. Don't bother trying to find any thing that you can use besides fork oil. If you only need 260 ml or less on each side I don't think you'll go broke buying the right stuff.
 
I bought some 15 wt. fork oil when I got the seals. No one has the bushings and they don't know if they can get them. I'm going to hunt some more today.
 
Bert,

The springs should have info on what length spacer to use as a starting point. You can always do some adjusting on your own. If they are Progressive springs they usually call for no air. You can check your sag, the difference in length between the fork fully extended and then sitting on the ground with your weight in the seat. Start with about 1 1/2" of sag and see how you like it. Then you can make adjustments. Just use PVC tubing that is close to the same diameter as the inside of the fork. Use a fender washer between the spring and the PVC.

As for the bushings, even 12 or 3 years ago they were special order for mine.

You can use kerosene or naptha to flush the system out and clean the internals up. Just take out the old springs and pour in some solvent. Then pump the fork up and down quite a bit to force the solvent through everything. Do that a few times to get it cleaned up good. Dump out the solvent and turn the tubes upside down for a while to drain good. You would be surprised how dirty things get in there.
 
Obviously, I'm apprehensive about doing this - I've always had shops do most work. It just seems like something I ought to be able to do. I've got plenty of tools, but pretty much just do oil changes. I'm going to give it a shot tomorrow.

I hope the bushings are okay, cuz I don't have any. Otherwise, I may have to order some down the road and do it again.

Thanks, Billy, and the rest. I'll let you know how it goes.
 
Bert, check your Progressive Suspension Part #. I think it will be 11-1106. If it is I have a chart for this stock # and can post the info you need regarding the spacer Friday morning at about 9:00A EDT. Now I suffer CRAFT :oops: but I was just checking this out yesterday and I'm pretty sure you will not require a spacer. If you do you'll need to make one from pvc pipe.
 
I use a 24" threaded rod, double nutted on each end. Just the right length down the tube. An impact on the hex bolt makes the leg come apart much easier. The job is not as daunting as you first think.
One lesson I learned the hard way is make sure your PVC spacers are cut almost square on the ends or the cap will hard to start. But two matching cheap sockets make heavy duty spacers.
I added 1 1/4" spacers to the original springs as Progressive doesn't list any springs for the 1000L.
Good Luck
 
Bert Patterson said:
Obviously, I'm apprehensive about doing this - I've always had shops do most work. It just seems like something I ought to be able to do. I've got plenty of tools, but pretty much just do oil changes. I'm going to give it a shot tomorrow.

I hope the bushings are okay, cuz I don't have any. Otherwise, I may have to order some down the road and do it again.

Thanks, Billy, and the rest. I'll let you know how it goes.
Click to expand...
I know how you feel, Bert, since I was in the same position last summer with my 1983 GS750ES.....had it done by the dealer on 2 previous occasions. I changed the seals, both sets of bushings (inner and outer), fork oil and dust covers, plus installed PS springs and spacers. The job is not mechanically difficult, you just need to give yourself time to work methodically. Billy and others on this site gave me some helpful tips, also. :D

Best of luck,

Simon
 
Bert Patterson said:
I bought some 15 wt. fork oil when I got the seals. No one has the bushings and they don't know if they can get them. I'm going to hunt some more today.
Click to expand...
I keep reading this stuff about bushings, I don’t think my 1978 GS 1000 has bushings, at least they don’t mention any in my manual, am I correct? What do they do?

Roman.
 
They are teflon coated bushings used to minimize wear on the mating surfaces of the upper and lower tubes as the fork slides.
 
Simon Waters said:
Thanks, Billy, and the rest. I'll let you know how it goes.
Click to expand...
I know how you feel, Bert, since I was in the same position last summer with my 1983 GS750ES.....had it done by the dealer on 2 previous occasions. I changed the seals, both sets of bushings (inner and outer), fork oil and dust covers, plus installed PS springs and spacers. The job is not mechanically difficult, you just need to give yourself time to work methodically. Billy and others on this site gave me some helpful tips, also. :D

Best of luck,

Simon[/quote]

Thanks, Simon. I wish I had the bushings - other friends have repeatedly done it without changing them, but my shop manual says to and, more importantly, Mister Ricks says to. It would take me too long to get them, I don't want the bike sitting in the shop and since the leak is down to almost nothing, I assume I've about run out of fork oil.

I've had bikes for 33-34 (?) years, but I've never done this. Bureaucrat (okay, and a lawyer) and a pretty good carpenter, but I've passed on most mechanically efforts. It's time to learn something, I guess.

I've got new PS rear shocks to install, but the front may be all I can handle in one day.
 
Bert,
When you get things apart take a good look at the bushings. If it looks as if the teflon is in good shape and not worn through or scratched up then you can probably reuse them with no ill consequences.
 
Billy Ricks said:
Bert,
When you get things apart take a good look at the bushings. If it looks as if the teflon is in good shape and not worn through or scratched up then you can probably reuse them with no ill consequences.
Click to expand...

Cool. Thanks for all your help, man. I almost think I can do this.
 
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