Installing Pod Filters on 1980 GS750

[Froader4life]

So I have looked and asked everywhere and haven't really found a straight answer. So I hear that installing pod air filters on vacuum carbs is a no no. But I see all kinds of bikes on this forum with them. I really want to get rid of the air box. What do I have to do to achieve this? New carbs? Dynojet stage 3 kit? Older Suzuki carbs that aren't vacuum? Please help. I can't wait to get this turd on the road!

 

[coolio]

Buy the Dyno Jet Kit Stage 1,2,3 Part # DJ3102. If you're running PODs and a 4 into 1 Exhaust set it up using the stage 3 parts in the kit. Z1Enterprises sell them...1980-1983 gs750

http://www.z1enterprises.com/ItemDe...on=Dynojet+Carb+Kit+GS750+1980-83&item=DJ3102

I've done a few so if you have any questions let me know.

Dave

 

[Nessism]

If you are going to run pods either get REAL K&N's or get the clone version APE sells. If you plan to run those crappy EMGO (or similar) pods, you are shooting yourself in the foot.

Also, understand that the reason pods flow more air than the airbox is because they don't filter dirt as well.

 

[seanarthurmachado]

So just out of curiosity, (not to give you grief) did you want pods vs Airbox for any reason other than appearance ?

Sean

 

[Froader4life]

Thanks for chiming in Coolio! I'm still a little confused. You are saying to buy all 3 stages? The part number you listed is only for stage 1 but it seems like I would just need stage 3. What does this kit do?

 

[Froader4life]

Looks is just about the only reason. I'm just trying to remove all the clunky stuff from this bike. There is a lot of it!!

 

[Guest]

May I have your airbox and filter box since you don't want them?

 

[tkent02]

I have riden one bike with pods on CV carbs that ran really well, dozens that sort of ran OK most of the time, and a few that didn't run worth a hoot at any point. So it can be done. The guy who had the really nice running one was a profession motorcycle mechanic, with access to the best equipment, and it took him a LOT of time and effort to get it right. Somehow I doubt if the turd owner asking the questions in the first post is going to be the one who gets it right.
But I really couldn't care less how your bike runs either, so go for it.

 

[8ball]

Don't go cheap on your filters. This thread explains the pitfalls of the cheapo pods. The thread is about installation on mechanical slide carbs, but is doubly applicable to vacuum slide CV carbs:

http://www.caferacer.net/forum/tips-tricks/19639-pod-filter-thread-geeto.html

 

[RichDesmond]

I have riden one bike with pods on CV carbs that ran really well, dozens that sort of ran OK most of the time, and a few that didn't run worth a hoot at any point. So it can be done. The guy who had the really nice running one was a profession motorcycle mechanic, with access to the best equipment, and it took him a LOT of time and effort to get it right. Somehow I doubt if the turd owner asking the questions in the first post is going to be the one who gets it right.
But I really couldn't care less how your bike runs either, so go for it.

Well, not the most pleasant way to make the point, but pretty much spot on regarding the essence of it.
Airboxes are there for a reason, and going to pods isn't going to help the bike in any functional way. Whether the aggravation and/or subsequent poor running is worth the appearance gain is up to the owner.

 

[seanarthurmachado]

I believe it might also place extra stress on the carburetor boots since in stock setup the weight of the carburetor is supported by the airbox as well as the carb boots.

 

[coolio]

My mistake...that kit is only a stage 1 kit...

Here's the stage 3 kit according to z1enterprises.com. I'd call them to confirm it will work with your model of bike. What model do you have?

http://www.z1enterprises.com/ItemDe...on=Dynojet+Carb+Kit+GS750+1980-85&item=DJ3315

What does the kit do?

The kit is basically replacement main jets, needles, needle clips, air correctors, spacing washers and two drill bits...one drill bit is
used to make the hole in the slider...

Carbs with the stock air box and exhaust pipes basically provide the engine with a set ratio of fuel to air mixture. The ideal mixture to run your engine efficiently is 13 parts air to 1 part of gasoline...13:1

Adding PODs and a 4 into 1 exhaust changes this ratio since more air is pulled through the engine changing the ideal ratio to something other than 13 parts air to 1 part gas. The engine pulls more air and it leaves out the exhaust faster which makes it run leaner.

By installing the parts in the dyno jet kit, the new main jets, new needles, air correctors and changing the needle clip height, these parts setup the carbs to provide the engine with the ideal fuel to air ratio of 13:1...with the new PODs and exhaust...

Carbs work like this:

There are 4 circuits inside your carbs. Each one of the circuits inside the carb provides gas to the engine depending on the throttle position you are applying.

Starting Circuit - provides gas to start the bike, choke on NO throttle
0-1/8th throttle position - Pilot Jet circuit
1/8 to 3/4 throttle position - Needle Jet (clip position)
3/4 to WOT (side open throttle) Main Jet circuit

Setting up carbs involves getting the 0-1/8, 1/8-3/4 & 3/4 WOT throttle positions which are the circuits inside the carbs all setup correctly to provide gas to the engine at the correct ratio. 13:1.


Install the jet kit parts as per the instructions. Take your time and read the instructions a few times and ask if you don't understand something.
Your first jet kit will be a bit of a challenge, but take your time and go one step at a time.

Once the kit is installed take notice when riding the bike as to what throttle position you are riding at. Certain throttle positions or RPMs use the different circuits of the carbs. Note if the bike runs good or bad at certain throttle positions. I've found with jet kits installed the only adjustment that is required is the pilot circuit which is 0 - 1/8 throttle position. Once above that position the bikes pull really nice.

I have 8 bikes and they all have PODs and 4 into 1 exhausts. Jet kits are a bit of work and a bit of a learning curve but far better looking with PODs and way easier to maintain as it takes me under 5 minutes to remove any set of carbs on any of my bikes.

As someone mentioned in a post...buy K& N filters and oil them as the jet kits are designed to be use with them NOT the emigo knock offs.

Hope that helps a bit. Again there's a lot to learn and my quick blurb gives you the basics.

Dave

 

[posplayr]

Good summary, and down right heroic given the podnayaayers. You did leave something out that is very important. Start with the Main and get that right and then work down. For the OP, this is because the main jet feeds the needle and the pilot jets so you have to decide on it first before the fine tuning (needle, pilot jets, float, idle).

http://www.factorypro.com/tech/carbtun.html

My mistake...that kit is only a stage 1 kit...

Here's the stage 3 kit according to z1enterprises.com. I'd call them to confirm it will work with your model of bike. What model do you have?

http://www.z1enterprises.com/ItemDe...on=Dynojet+Carb+Kit+GS750+1980-85&item=DJ3315

What does the kit do?

The kit is basically replacement main jets, needles, needle clips, air correctors, spacing washers and two drill bits...one drill bit is
used to make the hole in the slider...

Carbs with the stock air box and exhaust pipes basically provide the engine with a set ratio of fuel to air mixture. The ideal mixture to run your engine efficiently is 13 parts air to 1 part of gasoline...13:1

Adding PODs and a 4 into 1 exhaust changes this ratio since more air is pulled through the engine changing the ideal ratio to something other than 13 parts air to 1 part gas. The engine pulls more air and it leaves out the exhaust faster which makes it run leaner.

By installing the parts in the dyno jet kit, the new main jets, new needles, air correctors and changing the needle clip height, these parts setup the carbs to provide the engine with the ideal fuel to air ratio of 13:1...with the new PODs and exhaust...

Carbs work like this:

There are 4 circuits inside your carbs. Each one of the circuits inside the carb provides gas to the engine depending on the throttle position you are applying.

Starting Circuit - provides gas to start the bike, choke on NO throttle
0-1/8th throttle position - Pilot Jet circuit
1/8 to 3/4 throttle position - Needle Jet (clip position)
3/4 to WOT (side open throttle) Main Jet circuit

Setting up carbs involves getting the 0-1/8, 1/8-3/4 & 3/4 WOT throttle positions which are the circuits inside the carbs all setup correctly to provide gas to the engine at the correct ratio. 13:1.


Install the jet kit parts as per the instructions. Take your time and read the instructions a few times and ask if you don't understand something.
Your first jet kit will be a bit of a challenge, but take your time and go one step at a time.

Once the kit is installed take notice when riding the bike as to what throttle position you are riding at. Certain throttle positions or RPMs use the different circuits of the carbs. Note if the bike runs good or bad at certain throttle positions. I've found with jet kits installed the only adjustment that is required is the pilot circuit which is 0 - 1/8 throttle position. Once above that position the bikes pull really nice.

I have 8 bikes and they all have PODs and 4 into 1 exhausts. Jet kits are a bit of work and a bit of a learning curve but far better looking with PODs and way easier to maintain as it takes me under 5 minutes to remove any set of carbs on any of my bikes.

As someone mentioned in a post...buy K& N filters and oil them as the jet kits are designed to be use with them NOT the emigo knock offs.

Hope that helps a bit. Again there's a lot to learn and my quick blurb gives you the basics.

Dave

 

[coolio]

You are correct about the top down approach when changing the jetting...I have a 750 with a set of carbs on it from a 1000. Trying to save some $$ I've played around with the needle heights, main jet sizes and have it pretty close but it does cough and choke a bit above 3/4 throttle.
My thinking is it's too rich? Need to drop the mains down a size or 2?

The dyno kits I've found get things almost bang on ...again from my experience...with K & N's oiled I've found they work well setup as per their instructions.

Dave

 

[Buffalo Bill]

coolio, nice installation sum up and tips. I'll be keeping the airbox, but your tips will be helpful.

 

[Jedz123]

I ran cheapo pods on my 750. It ran great and racked 40k miles on three sets of Pods (they can't be cleaned, have to get new ones). I have run K&N and if you eat big miles and plan to own the bike for years I'd recommend those first. However I did run Emgo Pods and it was an animal The carbs are easier to pull to work on with pods too. The engine died due to excessive oil leaks on the base gasket. It still ran but was tired, pulled the jugs to find silicone and a big bore kit installed. Ran an 1100 swap with Pods, ran like raped ape.

I've run cheap pods rack 10's of thousand of miles on multiple bikes with them and was able to get my bikes to run much better then the stock air box.

Ran K&N pods on my B-12 , sound investment but that bike ran big miles every year... Jetting was PITA though. I blame Hole shot for that

Be sure to become a master of carbs before you walk down this road... You NEVER get it right the first time but once you get it right the smile will never escape your face!

My 2 cents.

 

[Guest]

I'll have to agree with jedz123, you can absolutely get the bike running beautifully with pods, but it is no walk in the park. I have had my bike running well for a long time but it was just recently with the addition of a header and exhaust with the right back pressure that I have gotten the bike running perfectly. The difference is night and day and the satisfaction is intoxicating. My experience has been with VM carburetors up to this point. It's sad but I don't think most people who ride these bikes have a clue as to how well they can run. Sticking with the original equipment is the easiest way to have a good experience with a GS motorcycle, but they can be made to run better than stock. It's a lot of work and trial and error but definitely possible.

 

[dorkburger]

http://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...Pipes-Panic!-(Help!-Your-Bike-has-Pods)/page2

Some humorous and informative info from our oum Mister Cinders

 

[tkent02]

I'll have to agree with jedz123, you can absolutely get the bike running beautifully with pods, but it is no walk in the park. I have had my bike running well for a long time but it was just recently with the addition of a header and exhaust with the right back pressure that I have gotten the bike running perfectly. The difference is night and day and the satisfaction is intoxicating. My experience has been with VM carburetors up to this point. It's sad but I don't think most people who ride these bikes have a clue as to how well they can run. Sticking with the original equipment is the easiest way to have a good experience with a GS motorcycle, but they can be made to run better than stock. It's a lot of work and trial and error but definitely possible.

This is my point, it can be done but it takes a lot of work, testing, learning, trial and error. Read the OP's post and tell me he's the one that's going to do all of this?
He'll dick with it a few hours, ride it around running like crap a few months and it will join the endless parade of parts bikes on Craigslost.

 

[kdo58]

k&n lets a lot of dirt through, had them on a gs850, that bike was the easy to start, on my katana 1100 a 91 i put uni foam filters, they seamed the best to me, i read a lot to get a good base line and fined tuned to my elevation. on the katana site they bad mouth pod filters, but my bike runs great.