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Intake Boot Screw Size

  • Thread starter Thread starter JRHemmen
  • Start date Start date
J

JRHemmen

Guest
Quick question everyone. I bought new intake boots and O rings but I'm not sure what type of vessel screwdriver to buy for my stuck screws. I know the dimensions of the screw, but is it a #2 or #3 JIS head? Sorry if this is already on here, I'm not at home and all I've found in my quick searches are the dimensions. I'm sure I'll buy both drivers eventually, but I'm hoping to save $20 by only getting the one I need for now.
 
Since you are only going to need them to get those screws OUT, a #3 Phillips will work, too.

When you put something back in there, use socket-head (Allen) cap screws.

Stainless ones are available from member robertbarr at cycleorings.com for a rather nice price.
He is also your go-to source for the o-rings necessary to rebuild your carbs.
 
Well, I got two screws successfully out. When I went to the other boot, I saw the PO had broken the head off of one. I sprayed the other with PB blaster, then did the heat gun/ice cube method, but I still snapped off the screw head. Is removing these as simple as drilling a bolt extractor into it?
 
Just so long as you are careful and get the drill bit centered on the broken screw. I would also use a set of left hand drill bits with heat. You might get lucky and get it to back out with the left hand drill bits. As far as the rest of the screws go, i use my craftsman multi-bit driver #2 & #3 philips bit with a 1/4" drive ratchet with a 1/4" socket to loosen the screws first. Once i started doing this, i hardly strip out screws anymore.
 
60ratrod said:
Just so long as you are careful and get the drill bit centered on the broken screw. I would also use a set of left hand drill bits with heat. You might get lucky and get it to back out with the left hand drill bits. As far as the rest of the screws go, i use my craftsman multi-bit driver #2 & #3 philips bit with a 1/4" drive ratchet with a 1/4" socket to loosen the screws first. Once i started doing this, i hardly strip out screws anymore.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the tip. I used a Kobalt #3 Phillips in a 1/4" socket and 1/4" drive ratchet as well, but I think this one screw was just completely frozen. I'll look into left handed bits at Lowes after I get off of work today.
 
Looks like my previous owner was a real bike guru. I decided I might as well pull the engine now for the build so I can get a proper angle to extract these broken screws. Turns out, there are two snapped off exhaust bolts too. Is it possible to pull the engine with exhaust in tact, or am I have to going to take out a hacksaw and cut these pipes off? My only other option I can see would be to risk snapping the other two bolts to remove the headers? as they are now.
 
I'd heat them up really good with mapp gas or propane and use some good pentrating liquid before I cut anything. Being on the head, they'll take a lot of heat.

I feel like a broken record today as I've already posted this - but my favorite concoction for penetrating fluid is a home made 50/50 mix of hardware store acetone and cheap ATF. Soak them, heat them, tap them with a hammer, soak them, heat them, tap them and soak again. Worst case, you bust the heads off them and get the pipes off intact so you can pull the engine and get it on a stand to get a good angle to get at the broken studs with the left handed drill bits. I would not use EZ outs personally. I've had several exhaust studs break off over the years and tried bolt extractors, only to have them break off in the stud, then you have a real pickle on your hands!
 
mikerophone said:
I'd heat them up really good with mapp gas or propane and use some good pentrating liquid before I cut anything. Being on the head, they'll take a lot of heat.

I feel like a broken record today as I've already posted this - but my favorite concoction for penetrating fluid is a home made 50/50 mix of hardware store acetone and cheap ATF. Soak them, heat them, tap them with a hammer, soak them, heat them, tap them and soak again. Worst case, you bust the heads off them and get the pipes off intact so you can pull the engine and get it on a stand to get a good angle to get at the broken studs with the left handed drill bits. I would not use EZ outs personally. I've had several exhaust studs break off over the years and tried bolt extractors, only to have them break off in the stud, then you have a real pickle on your hands!
Click to expand...

There's also the system of putting a nut - 8mm in this case - over the remaining end and welding it on. In pretty much every case, the heat plus expansion and contraction will break the rust up and the stud or bolt will unscrew. This is the best system I've seen; I don't do it myself as I don't weld, but I don't think it's all that hard if you do. Plus it's fast. Of course, if it's broken off way inside you can't do this, but flush or proud it works, and that's the usual case.
 
Yea, they're definitely too far in to weld onto. Plus, I don't own a welder yet. A friend of mine has an oxy acetylene torch that would work, but its got two full size tanks so moving it wouldn't be too convenient. I found a set of left handed drill bits and screw extractors together, would this serve the purpose I need? It seems every set of extractors I've found has reviews saying they've snapped off in a bolt. I think I'll end up doing what Mike said and break the heads off to get the exhaust intact. Though I'm not sure this exhaust is even worth saving, as my PO chopped the mufflers off. I can't tell if its rusted, since they're completely wrapped in heat tape. I have pictures in my thread under the GS Owners forum.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...rue&ref_=ox_sc_act_title_1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER
 
Thanks John, the welded nut method is a good one too, forgot about that one - and particularly for exhaust header bolts. A cheap Harbor Freight welder is a good investment IMO. Where are you located? There may be a member near you willing to help...

I personally have not had much with Irwin/Kobalt tools (Lowe's brand?) but I don't buy that many tools these days, most of mine are hand me downs from the good old boys/days, Amazon specials, Craftsman or even Harbor Freight. I've used the cheap HF diamond embedded dremel grinding type tips to get broken EZ outs too often to use them again for anything in a block or head personally. The left handed drill bits in that kit may be good enough to just increase the size as you go and often times when you are close enough to the diameter of the bolt, they'll turn out, or fall out on their own. Center punch the remaining shaft to get started centered.

Then you could chase the threads with a tap and call it good. Otherwise you drill them out a size bigger and use a keen-sert or helicoil.

Sorry to hear that your exhaust may be no good, Previous Owners (PO's) can do a number on these old beauties! Good luck!
 
Oh I plan on getting a HF welder eventually, but I'm not sure what type would best suit me as of yet. Also, I just dropped about $450 in the last week on this bike, parts, and tools, which is more than a college student with a car payment should spend on a hobby. Lol. I'll order the left handed bits and see how it goes. I've had the bike for a week and it's already turned from a simple carb rebuild to pulling the engine, but isn't that how these things always go? Luckily this aforementioned friend has a tap & die kit I can use. I guess the plan for now is to try unscrew the two remaining bolts, plan on them breaking, and remove the exhaust so I can pull the engine to have ample room for extracting the 4 broken bolts I've found/created SO FAR. thanks for all the info.

Along further inspection, it looks like one of the exhaust bolts isn't broken, it's just missing. I'll take a picture tomorrow and hopefully get someone's opinion. I may be crazy (or tired at 12:30am), but it looks like the hole is clear all the way through.
 
Ha! Sounds like you'll fit right in around here. 12:30 and you're still on the site, and working on/looking at your bike. And yes, I agree that's the way things go... :D
 
Protip, modify your profile to show your location and add your ride in your signature. You'd be surprised to find how many people are in your general area
 
Bit of a thread drift here, bit I'm attempting to clean out my carbs, and theres a piece on the body that looks like rubber to me but wasn't mentioned in the disassembly guide. Is this safe to dip?

23838098842_b2b886158a_c.jpg


As my luck continues, the pilot jets are both stuck as well, and well on their way to being stripped. Guess I really can't do anything on this bike until my screw extractors get here.


As an extra, I read somewhere (the gs twin forum i believe) that these bowl gaskets are pretty resilient. Do these look okay to reuse, or do I delay my work even more but have the security of new gaskets?

23318125254_9c76f89da5_c.jpg
 
I don't have a 450, nor have I had a Suzuki twin (yet :D) so that part is unfamiliar to me. Perhaps someone will be along to confirm, but it looks similar to a choke plunger seal to me, I would remove the bolt below that rubber seal and soak the whole thing in hot water to soften the rubber, I bet it just slides right off the plunger. Don't dip any rubber that you aren't going to replace. That's another thing I like about the heated ultrasonic cleaner with Simple Green HD in it, I clean all the rubber bits, and even the slides, being careful not to get the diaphragms too hot but the Simple Green doesn't break the rubber down, the heat softens it so be more easily removed and the ultrasonic blasts any crud around the sealing surfaces away.

I'll also soak my bowl gaskets in the heated cleaner and re-use when they are flat and complete. I don't think I'd reuse that. It's to deformed and cracking around the outer sealing edges. It's enough work to get them off - to have to pull everything off again if it leaks would be a real bummer.

I suppose you could try to test it off the bike by filling it up without the valve seat and needle in there temporarily and try to keep it level - perhaps lightly clamped in a vise like the guide shows while testing the float heights to see if the bowl gasket leaks, but if it's too full it will flow out of the main jet.
 
What i've done with stuck jets is once again used heat and a drill bit that is just a little bit bigger than the jet with a hammer and vice gripsand as i hammered the bit in i turned it counterclockwise and they came out. This is only if heat and penetrating fluid with a screw driver won't back them out and you need new jets
 
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