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Is changing base gasket hard?

  • Thread starter Thread starter gubzsuzuki
  • Start date Start date
bwringer said:
Yes. Suzuki gaskets only, please.

All the rest are crap. CRAP, I tell you! CRAP!!!! :mad:
Click to expand...

except for the OEM valve cover gasket. I replaced mine twice with OEM, it leaked twice.

Now I use Cometic valve cover gaskets, they offer more surface area to seal than the odball OEM one. No leaks. Cheaper too.
 
Gubz

Best would be a Suzuki factory manual (but referes to Suzuki factory tools and suplies). Can find one on ebay from time to time, is best if is the year or after the year of your bike so it has the supplements for the years following the original manaul.
And in your case, for the 1100G, make sure it is the manaul for the 1100G (and GL and GK) and not the manual for the 1100E.

Cheapest would be finding a manaul that you can download, try BassCliff collection of manauls on his web site (BikeCliff). Although printing it out so can use in garage may or may not be a problem for you.

Cheasist and best would be factory manual that you can download.

Next best is a Clymers (in my opinion) manual. Can be found on ebay about any time or from most any online books stores or some online autoparts stores. Last choice (in my opinion) is a Haynes manual.

I have both the factory and the Clymers, and I like to refere to both when getting into something I am not familar with.

.

About if changing the base gasket is easy:
Have you had the expereince of
- taking off the carbs?
- removing the exhaust?
- taking off the heads?
- and reassembling the above, and reseting the cam timing?
To get at base gasket; have to remove the exhaust and the heads, before can take off the cyclinders to get at the base gasket.

.

Where in general are you located?

.
 
Last edited:
Redman said:
Best would be a Suzuki factory manual (but referes to Suzuki factory tools and suplies). Can find on on ebay from time to time, is best if is the year or after the year of your bike.

Cheapest would be finding a manaul that you can download, try BassCliff collection of manauls on his web site (BikeCliff). Although printing it out so can use in garage may or may not be a problem for you.

Cheasist and best would be factory manaul that you can download.

Next best is a Clymers (in my opinion) manual. Can be found on ebay about any time or from most any online books stores or some online autoparts stores. Last choice (in my opinion) is a Haynes manual.

.
Click to expand...

I'd agree with most of that. I think I paid 60 bucks for my OEM manual (by the time I paid shipping). Somebody had printed it out, gotten it bound and put plastic cover on it. Pricey, but it's the one to have. I also have the Haynes, love to get a Climers at some point.
 
Yeah, the Haynes came with mine and I wound up getting a Clymer.
 
Hey, Lookie what I found, just what we were talking about.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Suzuki-GS-850-1000-1100-Service-Manual-Shaft-Drive_W0QQitemZ120402598067QQcmdZViewItemQQptZMotors_Manuals_Literature?hash=item120402598067&_trksid=p4506.c0.m245&_trkparms=65%3A1%7C39%3A1%7C240%3A1318
Buy-it-now price is $24 plus $5 s/h.

376.jpg


The ones from the online bookstore will probably be 29-30 bucks plus shipping.
Note how it covers 79 thru 84, so it will be one of the newer editions.
The older ones that only cover up thru like 82 (I think) have color schematics, can easly tell those by the big oval emblem on upper right corner that says "color schematics", but dont see those too often.
Also note how it covers 850 & 1100, and covers 79-84. Not much difference between 850 & 1100, but are some difference between 79-80 and 81-84.

.
 
Last edited:
gubzsuzuki said:
Well its leaking enough that I didn't ride it last year because it comes off the fins and gets on your legs after about a 1/2 hour of riding and I had to do a lot of home repairs that took all the money. So now I am wanting to get it rideable again. You all have good advice, it runs great still but I guess that doesn't mean it won't need more than I think to fix it. I just didn't want to bring it to a shop if not needed. I hate paying someone to do something that I can learn to do myself.:)
Click to expand...

I was convinced that I needed to get in and replace that gasket for the same reason... oil coming from what seemed to be the gasket seam, wrapping around the fins, and staining my jeans and airbox cover. After I cleaned everything off, and really focused on finding the exact leak, it turned out to be my chain tensioner leaking oil to the front of the engine, that then wrapped all the way around. Pesky oil...

I've got $20 worth of parts on the way to fix that sucker. WAAAAY easier and less expensive than the base gasket chore I was about to endure.

If you aren't positive about the source of your leak, make sure it isn't something easy first.
 
Redman said:
Hey, Lookie what I found, just what we were talking about.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Suzu...id=p4506.c0.m245&_trkparms=65:1|39:1|240:1318
Buy-it-now price is $24 plus $5 s/h.

376.jpg


The ones from the online bookstore will probably be 29-30 bucks plus shipping.
Note how it covers 79 thru 84, so it will be one of the newer editions.
The older ones that only cover up thru like 82 (I think) have color schematics, can easly tell those by the big oval emblem on upper right corner that says "color schematics", but dont see those too often.
Also note how it covers 850 & 1100, and covers 79-84. Not much difference between 850 & 1100, but are some difference between 79-80 and 81-84.

.
Click to expand...

I actually have a 82 1100e model. Sorry if I typed it wrong earlier. Also I have experience in almost everything on the bike except taking heads off and retiming. Although I have done this on cars before, I know it's not the exact same, but I understand it well. Thanks for all your help and I am located in central Illinois
 
Mr. Brown said:
I was convinced that I needed to get in and replace that gasket for the same reason... oil coming from what seemed to be the gasket seam, wrapping around the fins, and staining my jeans and airbox cover. After I cleaned everything off, and really focused on finding the exact leak, it turned out to be my chain tensioner leaking oil to the front of the engine, that then wrapped all the way around. Pesky oil...

I've got $20 worth of parts on the way to fix that sucker. WAAAAY easier and less expensive than the base gasket chore I was about to endure.

If you aren't positive about the source of your leak, make sure it isn't something easy first.
Click to expand...

Thanks, I will try to trace it again since it is more pronounced now, I have tried it before with not much luck. thanks again!
 
I determined it was the chain tensioner because, after cleaning everything off and going for a ride, there were oil drops coming from the knob at the end of the tensioner, as well as a nice coat on top of the oil pressure sensor.

I've seen some people recommend spraying the suspected area with an aerosol powder, like foot powder, to help trace the path.
 
Thanks REDMAN for the advice on the online manual, I printed off the pages I needed, really helped! Also Thanks to Mr. Brown, I will try tonite your suggestion. This site is so helpful.:)
 
Just wanted to add to the idea that before you go tearing the whole thing apart, try and make 100% sure that the leak is coming from where you think it's coming from.

I know that my valve cover is leaking. I can see it leaking through the half moons seals on the side. It actually looks like it's a gasket that wasn't actually designed for the bike that I have.

But, after really looking, I also determined that the part on the front of the engine where the tach cable hooks to the bike was leaking. So that needs to be changed, too.

Also, remember, when you are riding, the air is swirling around the engine in all sorts of ways, and that the oil leak could be coming from nowhere near where it seems like it's coming from.

Good luck!!
 
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