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Is it possible to ride these bikes too hard...?

  • Thread starter Thread starter jrdatrackstar
  • Start date Start date
Factory went ahead and welded your '83 for you. I keep imagining a pic of your Suzi and Honda 11's next to each other on a sunny sidewalk.

There was a corner bagel store near where I got off the bus from Wall Street every afternoon. Frequently there was a Kaw H1 parked next to a Kaw Z1 on the sidewalk in front of the store. I think the two guys worked there (flour on the Grab-Ons :p).

They were lightlyly modified, pods, clamp ons and 4-into-1s. Completely of the day (1980).

It's more than just the metal. I would imagine the two guys coming and leaving together. There's a certain way you ride after a long shift. Not necessarily even very fast. Just with a certain amount of...camaraderie.

I know I'm babbling, but can anyone relate?
 
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I can kind of relate with you Rob. I don't ride to work to much now, but I use to. When leaving work I'd often jam 1st, 2ed, and 3ed gear. Kind of my way of saying nice to see ya, hate to be ya! I'm out of here! 🙂
 
I can relate that the more I use something, the less I beat on it. Doesn't matter if its a sports car or a motorcycle. If i don't get much chance to run it, I get more thrills from each chance, more or less.

I think stock 2 valve GS motorcycles will pretty much run out of breath before they can hurt themselves. That explains the super high survival rate.
 
I can relate that the more I use something, the less I beat on it. Doesn't matter if its a sports car or a motorcycle. If i don't get much chance to run it, I get more thrills from each chance, more or less.

I think stock 2 valve GS motorcycles will pretty much run out of breath before they can hurt themselves. That explains the super high survival rate.
Yeah, no problems with my G, even though I have missed a few upshifts recently. Not that I wanna keep testing 10,000+ RPM. Just testing where it's gonna actually find it's power limit.
 
buried the needle on my old 550 all day, every day...Just couldn't bother the thing no matter how mean I was to her... my current 550 I've been more gentle with, she wants more but, I'm more timid on wire wheels... (sorry girl, it's not you, it's me)
My daily is and 850G, it see's 5k on the regular but, generally not more than 7-8K... not cause she can't take it, just don't ever need to...
 
I'm a little late to the game, but as most others have said, you won't hurt it as long as you stay out of the red. I redline my 850 at least once every time I ride it, but I always wait until it's warmed up.

A few weeks ago, I missed a shift and when I looked down my tach said 12,000 rpms :eek: Scared me for sure, but it continued running fine and I haven't noticed any ill effects yet... I don't think any damage was done, but I will definitely be kicking the shifter harder in the future, I don't want to blow it up.
 
Well, low and behold I guess I did end up riding the bike too hard. I went for a ride yesterday and pushed a bit around town (never redlining but up there in the 8-9000 range sometimes, mostly in the 5-7) and developed a loud rod knock. Turns out the bike was low on oil so I think I did some irreversible damage. The knock is extremely loud and sounds like a piece of metal is clanging in the engine.

Never done teardowns or anything of the sort and don?t know how to. My brother (who is a mechanic) said it sounded like it had no oil in it and to empty the oil and check for metal; if there was no metal in the oil, fill it up with 20W-50 and see if it goes away. I?ve added 2 full cans of Lucas Oil 20W-50 and it still has the loud clanging.

Video link:
https://share.icloud.com/photos/043s9t_62xownWPsjzmeApwuA
 
Thanks for the reply. So does that mean the engine is done? Is there anything I can do without a teardown?

Did you change the oil and filter? If metal IS found, sometimes you can identify the source by examing the filings.
 
Did you change the oil and filter? If metal IS found, sometimes you can identify the source by examing the filings.

Good point, only drained the oil and put new oil in. I?ll get a new filter this morning. Thanks.
 
If you had a roller bearing crankshaft eng., it would be a lot less likely to be catastrophic. But you have a plain bearing crankshaft eng., knocking due to low oil probably won't be good. Just my opinion.
 
Man I really expected to be on this bike forever, being that it?s my first one. Ironically I was eyeing an SV650 as well because I want something with a little more torque and low end power. I guess this might be the stars aligning unfortunately, but I can?t bring myself to spend that much money on a bike. The only reason I even have this one is my wife surprised me with it last Father?s Day.

Gonna be hard to separate from this bike, I?ve had so much fun on it. Going to bring by a friends shop later (they work on vintage bikes) and if he says it?s toast then I guess SV650 it is....😩
 
Evidently you weren't keeping up with the thread, a couple of months ago, by Rich82gs750tz, titled 750 TSCC Rebuild or Replace, it's in the 4 Cylinder Engine/Drivetrain/ Clutch section . Messed up eng. found replacement, got it bact together last month. From where you are today, it may well be worth reading.
 
Man I really expected to be on this bike forever, being that it?s my first one. Ironically I was eyeing an SV650 as well because I want something with a little more torque and low end power. I guess this might be the stars aligning unfortunately, but I can?t bring myself to spend that much money on a bike. The only reason I even have this one is my wife surprised me with it last Father?s Day.

Gonna be hard to separate from this bike, I?ve had so much fun on it. Going to bring by a friends shop later (they work on vintage bikes) and if he says it?s toast then I guess SV650 it is....

I ride an SV 650 now and then, trading off with a former GS750B rider. He's always rather disappointed when he has to give me back my GS450T. In theory, I love the SV650; in practice I'm glad I didn't buy one.

The good news. You've been riding a GS; you know how they steer and feel. Ride an SV and be honest with yourself. I think that IF you find the right profile front tire - Michelin and /70 series? - it's liveable, but there's something about 120 wide tires on 17" front wheels and the steering geometry that goes with them that just doesn't 'dance' for me.

They're also not much for long distance comfort, especially the earlier model. It's a race bike for the masses. Light, 130 mph top speed, totally reliable. Adjusting the rear cylinder valves is 'Involved' so the drill is to check the fronts and if they're okay, keep riding. If they need adjusting.... have you considered buying a newer one? They have lots of low end power, but the redline is still about 10,000 with the main event above 6,000 so they aren't an 'American' style V twin; more like an affordable Ducati.

On the other hand, if you bond with one then you're on a great, long lived, much loved, great machine that has a deep following.

The GS650G - I've never been more than around them - seems prone to crank/rod problems that are common to the plain bearing crank fours. The plain bearing twins are less affected- probably because it's a same or similar oil pump feeding half as many rods. 650 gearboxes have been known to overheat the final gear pair to the bevel drive, as it's constantly under load.

I'd be looking for a GS500 myself. More comfortable, plenty fast enough, friendly, and a simple to service twin. Good seat, bars in the right place, and narrower tires that like to turn. Something to ride until you figure out what your dream bike is.
 
I ride an SV 650 now and then, trading off with a former GS750B rider. He's always rather disappointed when he has to give me back my GS450T. In theory, I love the SV650; in practice I'm glad I didn't buy one.

The good news. You've been riding a GS; you know how they steer and feel. Ride an SV and be honest with yourself. I think that IF you find the right profile front tire - Michelin and /70 series? - it's liveable, but there's something about 120 wide tires on 17" front wheels and the steering geometry that goes with them that just doesn't 'dance' for me.

They're also not much for long distance comfort, especially the earlier model. It's a race bike for the masses. Light, 130 mph top speed, totally reliable. Adjusting the rear cylinder valves is 'Involved' so the drill is to check the fronts and if they're okay, keep riding. If they need adjusting.... have you considered buying a newer one? They have lots of low end power, but the redline is still about 10,000 with the main event above 6,000 so they aren't an 'American' style V twin; more like an affordable Ducati.

On the other hand, if you bond with one then you're on a great, long lived, much loved, great machine that has a deep following.

The GS650G - I've never been more than around them - seems prone to crank/rod problems that are common to the plain bearing crank fours. The plain bearing twins are less affected- probably because it's a same or similar oil pump feeding half as many rods. 650 gearboxes have been known to overheat the final gear pair to the bevel drive, as it's constantly under load.

I'd be looking for a GS500 myself. More comfortable, plenty fast enough, friendly, and a simple to service twin. Good seat, bars in the right place, and narrower tires that like to turn. Something to ride until you figure out what your dream bike is.


Thanks for that thorough breakdown man, I’m trying to find a dealership that will allow me to test one without having to be fully in with buying it. I also remember always hearing that you never buy new because these are expensive toys but I also want something that wouldn’t require much maintenance other than the usual (oil, chain, etc). I’ve never ridden an SV650 before, the GS and 2009 Harley Sportster XL 1200 are the only motorcycles I’ve ever ridden before. The Vtwin on the Sportster obviously blew my 650 out of the water in terms of low end torque, but I know the SV also has a Vtwin.
 
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So I ended up taking the bike to a friend?s shop who works on vintage bikes and they told me that it?s the cam tension screw that probably has a loose spring (also confirmed by my brother in law). I guess the good news is that it doesn?t require a top-end takedown like I expected, bad news it?s still a little more involved than I am used to.

Thank you to those who posted those reference threads as well, I will take a look at those and appreciate it!
 
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