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Is there a spec for float drop?

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Guest

Guest
I currently have genuine Suzuki needle and seat assemblies on the way. I already had the bike together and running but sitting a week between start ups fuel comes out various overflows when I turn the fuel on. The needles looked OK- thats why they went back in. Floats are buoyant and set to 24mm. When I turn the fuel on and the one carb overflows I tap that carb bowl with a screwdriver handle and it stops. Is there a spec for the amount of float drop? Im gonna do it all on the bench and verify no leaks- then they go back on the bike! Bike runs fantastic.

CarbsGSmounted_zpsa02e53e3.jpg
 
That is not unusual behavior. I have had a float needle stick like that and clear up after the bike was ridden a bit. Tapping on the bowl can temporarily clear it. I just rebuilt my carbs and had #3 do that several times before it stopped sticking. New seats and needles and fiber washers will take care of it, whatever the cause, as long as the floats are free to move on the pin. You can get an adapter with a clear tube for the bowl drain from Z1 that will show you the fuel level. The level should be between the bottom and top of the bowl flange. I suspect the little springs on the needles might be the culprit.
 
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1 out of 10 does that for me... i just tear it back apart and look at it, and it seems to fix itself????

bad luck?
minute speck 'o dirt?
I DUNNO
 
Ive completely redone this bike for my brother. 3 weeks ago when I got it back together one carb leaked when the fuel was turned on. Did the tapping and it stopped. For the next week every couple of days Id hang my aux fuel tank up and turn it on. no leaking. Then it sat for a week and when my brother was here I hooked it up so he could hear it run. A different carb leaked that time. I have read about setting float drop but for the life of me cant find a spec. I may bend the tang slightly to reduce the drop.
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Oh and the Suzuki needle valve assemblies are $32 each. I had him buy all 4. Sounds like none of the aftermarket parts are worth a crap. When I rebuilt the petcock with the K&L kit I had to reuse the 34 year old diaphram and piston because the K&L piston is like .007" to short and wont seal.
 
The aftermarket kits have all earned their bad reputations. The only adjustment I have ever seen in the factory manual is to set the float height. 24MM is where they should be. Off topic, I would appreciate it if you could give me the size of the tires on those spoke wheels, and the rim width and dimensions. I have a set in my basement that I want to put on my GS1000E, but I'm not sure what GS they came off of. Here is a link for the service manual if you don't have one. http://www.mtsac.edu/~cliff/storage/gs/GS1000_C-E-S-L_Manual.pdf
 
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OldVet66 let me get back to you after I get those sizes. Steve I was aware of those parts. Recently I read on the Bike Cliff website about the aftermarket parts being inferior and thats why genuine Suzuki parts are on order. It also explains problems I have personally had with K&L and Keyster parts I have used. Im being paid to fix this bike and I want it gone and trouble free!!!!!
 
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