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Is this a problem?

At least the face of the case didn't get cracked, letting all the oil run out and putting the stator into the rotor. Really bad things can happen when the bike hits on the left side.
 
HEY! ! ! ! Take another look at that second picture.... Just under the pink circle and under the crash bar, at the very bottom. Is that frame cracked?!? An illusion? Check it out...
 
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It sure looks cracked. I missed that the first time through. I hope it isn't.
 
Hm. Very hard to tell. Here's a few new shots. I kept that "7" bolt in each frame for reference:

#4
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#13
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#15
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Larry D said:
To answer your question....yes.

Looks like your crash guard impacted the bolt and cracked the stator cover. Although the oil just sloshes around in there, it will leak because it on the bottom and it should be easy to replace. I would think a stator cover for a 550 should be easy to find.

To make a point from a earlier post.... I'm glad that beautiful little girl of yours wasn't riding along that day.:)
Click to expand...

If you look in the second picture you can tell where the crash guard moved. Look where the bolt goes through the bracket
 
Well a friend came over and we got the guard and cover off. There is no frame damage, by the way, and the guard should fit nicely back... its holes have enough wiggle room that it should be fine.

I picked up a stator cover from Amos (TheBigRed; thanks very much!)

but as someone mentioned I might need, I need a gasket. Ordered one from a local supplier, so it might be a few days.

The screws that hold the stator's guts in were moderately stripped (one was severly stripped, and it's been destroyed), so I'll pick up some new screws before reinstalling.

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Two questions:
1) the coil wiring snakes through a smallish hole in the gasket before threading through the bike to the other side where it plugs in. Do I have to unplug back at the electrical connection, thread through the gasket and re-thread the wiring back to the connection, or could I just snip the outside of the gasket, since it could still maintain integrity within the case?
3372879297_1d7ca26c56_o.jpg


2) This may be in the Haynes book that I have, but are there certain torque levels to set for the bolts that hold the cover on? Or for the bolt that ties both guards and the engine to the frame?
 
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That's what I was going to say too.

Those case badges are not that expensive at Bike Bandit. I think I paid like six bucks apiece for a set, by the way.

tkent02 said:
JB Weld would be a permanent repair on this case, it lasts forever if it is applied with no oil under the repair, and if the temps are not extreme. The problem would be getting it to seal completely without taking the cover off and doing it from the inside. If you are taking it off anyway just replace it or get it welded.
Click to expand...
 
So do I have to unplug the stator and snake it through? It's probably not a big deal, just a hassle, and snipping the gasket sure seems convenient.
 
Hi Mr. kerrfunk,

It's best of you don't cut the gasket that the stator wires run through. Although the PO did that to my bike, I wish he hadn't. I haven't replaced the rubber gasket yet. When I replaced my stator, I sealed it up as best I could with whatever silicone goo/gasket sealer I had in the garage. The next time I replace my stator I'll try to find a new gasket.

It's kind of a pain to unthread/rethread the wires through. One way is to solder some smaller wires to the larger ones and use them as pull strings to get the stator wires back through the rubber gasket.

Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff
 
Well I'm running again!
My buddy Will did most the work (and owned all the tools) but it's kinda exciting to know I could do it again if I needed to, and have that confidence. I suppose it's that way with other projects too.

Thanks for your help. Til next time!
 
I kind of had the same issue with my left side engine guards. So I added some washes so the the bar wasn't so close to the stator cover.

Glad this worked out for you!

Rick
 
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