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Is this right.

  • Thread starter Thread starter Kraken
  • Start date Start date
K

Kraken

Guest
I recently got a 650E and hve been working on getting it road worthy. I pulled the carbs and cleand them as well as I could without tearing them completely down. Anyway my question is in reguards to the air box boots. I noticed that the air box has one boot that has a much smaller inside diameter than the other 3. I figured that it was something the previous owned did.

So I go online to see about getting new ones and it looks like there are 3 different boot sizes. This can't be right can it? I could understand 2, but 3 come on.

also How do I blead the rear brakes? It's apparently not like a car. I've tried using a vacuum bleader but no fluid is coming through the master cylinder. Is there some trick I'm missing?

Thanks for helping a noob.
 
The two outer boots are the same part#, the boot for #3 cylinder is discontinued.
Yes, the boot on carb #2 is smaller. My guess is that it's to increase the vacuum on that carb so the petcock will funtion properly at idle.

I worked on a GS650E a couple years back. Since that boot was no longer available from Suzuki, I ended up using a boot from a 80 GS550E in it's place. It still runs to this day with the odd boot.
 
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Most newbies wind up cleaning their carbs two or three times before they get their bike to run properly because there is still gunk on the internal passages when they do a quick spritz out instead of a proper rebuild with new O-rings from the start; short cuts turn into long cuts. Same thing goes for the brake system, only this can be safety related. Sounds like your brake system is gunked up; pushing some clean fluid through the system is NOT a substitute for cleaning out the system properly by taking it apart.
 
Nessism said:
Most newbies wind up cleaning their carbs two or three times before they get their bike to run properly because there is still gunk on the internal passages when they do a quick spritz out instead of a proper rebuild with new O-rings from the start; short cuts turn into long cuts. Same thing goes for the brake system, only this can be safety related. Sounds like your brake system is gunked up; pushing some clean fluid through the system is NOT a substitute for cleaning out the system properly by taking it apart.
Click to expand...

Very true and I think the last part is even more important than the carbs, as you do not want to put your life at risk once you have your bike performing at its best! I fully endorse what Nessism says above.:)
 
The cabs were actually pretty clean. There was some gunk on the slide needels and that was it. I pulled the bowls off and they were clean. I don't have a problem tearing them apart if it needs it but if I can get it running with a mild cleaning thats fine with me.

As far as the brakes go I'm 100% with you about the safety factor. I find is odd that nothing gummed up in the caliper but it did in the master cylinder. My dad said he thought there was some kind of trick to bleading them. The pedal pumps freely but it's not building pressure.
 
Did you remove the pilot jets from the carbs and hold them up to a light to make sure they are open? If not, chances are very high that some of them are closed and the bike will not run right. Also, even if the carbs are fairly clean the O-rings are still almost 30 years old which means they are hard and brittle. The intake boot O-rings are particularly problematic and are almost sure to leak if they are not changed - this will show up as a high erratic idle.

Regarding the brakes, if the master is full of gunk the brake lines will have scale on the inside and the caliper will have chunkies as well. You can't just flush this stuff through.

Good luck and enjoy your bike.
 
Kraken said:
The cabs were actually pretty clean. There was some gunk on the slide needels and that was it. I pulled the bowls off and they were clean. I don't have a problem tearing them apart if it needs it but if I can get it running with a mild cleaning thats fine with me.
Click to expand...
You might get it running with a mild clean, but the chances of that are rather slim. How long has it been since the bike ran regularly? I don't mean fired up in the garage, I mean run down the highway. Like Nessism said, it's not the float bowls that make it run bad, it's all the little passages up inside the body and the jets that get plugged up. Unless you take them all out and soak the carb bodies, you will not know for sure and you will take the carbs out several times before you get it right. While you are looking for your boot, also order a full set of o-rings for the carbs and boots from cycleorings.com. The owner of that little place is a member here and has ALL the o-rings you will need at a very reasonable price. Oh, and don't bother with a "rebuild" kit from an Internet site. The only useful thing in there is the float bowl gasket and you can get them a whole lot cheaper straight from the dealer.

.
 
On the rear brakes sometimes you have to disconnect the brake piston from the brake lever and push it up manually. This gets those pesky bubbles that hide at the top of the cylinder.
 
It sat in a garage for 3 years before I got it. They guy said he had it running before he put it in storage. I'm pretty sure the cylinders are getting gas because the intake boots looked wet last time I tried to start it. However I tried to start it without the airbox on so the slides didn't work. Noob mistake but I'm going to work on it today.

I don't know much about Japanese bikes so there has been a bit of a learning curve. Most of the bikes I've worked on are pre 60's so they are a little less complicated.
 
Kraken said:
It sat in a garage for 3 years before I got it. They guy said he had it running before he put it in storage.
Click to expand...
I hate to say it, but that's a classic line. With that amount of time in storage, I would definitely take the carbs apart and dip them.


Kraken said:
However I tried to start it without the airbox on so the slides didn't work.
Click to expand...
No problem there, you can start the bike without the airbox on. The slides don't work until engine speed gets considerably higher than idle. In fact, you can take the bike for a test ride if you simply fold a shop rag in half and cover the inlets of the carbs. Use zip-ties to hold the rag to the outer carbs. It will work OK for a test ride, but is not good enough for jetting calibration.

As mentioned previously, your best bet will be to dip the carbs and replace all the o-rings. O-rings are available from a member here, check them out at cycleorings.com.

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if your brake system is empty of fluid alltogether you and the m/c is not pushing the fluid through you can prime the m/c by adding a little fluid through the top banjo bolt hole first
 
Don't be afraid of the dip, my man

Don't be afraid of the dip, my man

Ness and Steve won't lead you astray, I suggest you listen to them.
But more than that, people make tearing down the carbs sound a lot scarier than it is. Give yourself more time than you need, prep your work area well, have bins (could be simple as an egg carton) ready and labeled for all parts and work slow and keep things straight. It is clearly worth it, rather than chasing your tail trying to tune something that cannot function properly because it's clogged.
 
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