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Issues while breaking down the GS1100EZ Carbs

  • Thread starter Thread starter Crage
  • Start date Start date
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Crage

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Well, I got started on breaking the carbs down on my new GS1100ez today. After breaking down carb #1, I checked the jet sizes. The main jet in carb #1 was a 112.5, but according to the spread sheet on Basscliff's site AND my Haynes manual it should have a 110 main jet. All of the other jets matched up fine.

So I went ahead and popped the bowls off the other 3 carbs and low and behold they have 110 main jets! What the hell?! Why would someone change only one main jet?! :eek:

I was already going to order new pilot jet plugs so I'll go ahead and add this to the list.

The only other snag that I've run into is that the pilot screws are all stuck. I figured these would be the easiest screws to get out after removing the factory plugs... I mangled the first screw pretty badly before deciding to let it soak in PB blaster first. I can't believe they are all 4 stuck, hopefully the blaster does the trick over night. Any other tips on this one?
 
Crage said:
Well, I got started on breaking the carbs down on my new GS1100ez today. After breaking down carb #1, I checked the jet sizes. The main jet in carb #1 was a 112.5, but according to the spread sheet on Basscliff's site AND my Haynes manual it should have a 110 main jet. All of the other jets matched up fine.

So I went ahead and popped the bowls off the other 3 carbs and low and behold they have 110 main jets! What the hell?! Why would someone change only one main jet?! :eek:

I was already going to order new pilot jet plugs so I'll go ahead and add this to the list.

The only other snag that I've run into is that the pilot screws are all stuck. I figured these would be the easiest screws to get out after removing the factory plugs... I mangled the first screw pretty badly before deciding to let it soak in PB blaster first. I can't believe they are all 4 stuck, hopefully the blaster does the trick over night. Any other tips on this one?
Click to expand...

These '82 GS1100EZ bikes are cold blooded, run lean and therefore hot, you might be better off with the 112.5 jets but I'll let someone with more experience than me on that talk on it.
I gave my '82 GS1100EZ carbs to Chef to rebuild, I believe stuck pilot screws are his specialty.
 
Hmm, anyone else have advice or experience on this?

Right now my #1 carb has a 112.5 main jet and the rest have 110. So I either need to buy 1 110 or 3 112.5s. Where is a good place to get these? I'm not finding them on Z1.

Edit: Looks like http://www.newmotorcycleparts.com/ will have any jet I need.
 
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You did not mention any other modifications but if it were me I would double check the jet sizes in the manual to confirm which you are really supposed to have and the bump up a 2.5 size with a freer flowin k&n filter for you air box
 
Crage said:
Hmm, anyone else have advice or experience on this?

Right now my #1 carb has a 112.5 main jet and the rest have 110. So I either need to buy 1 110 or 3 112.5s. Where is a good place to get these? I'm not finding them on Z1.

Edit: Looks like http://www.newmotorcycleparts.com/ will have any jet I need.
Click to expand...

If you can once you decide on what size to get, go with OEM. The aftermarket stuff can be really crap.
 
posplayr said:
You did not mention any other modifications but if it were me I would double check the jet sizes in the manual to confirm which you are really supposed to have and the bump up a 2.5 size with a freer flowin k&n filter for you air box
Click to expand...

I checked it already in the service manual. 110 is the proper size for the '82's.
page 15-8 in the service manual. 112.5 is the proper size for the '83 page 17-6.
Click here to download the service manual, your bike is covered for the most part in chapter 15.
http://www.mtsac.edu/~cliff/storage/gs/80-83_GS1100T-LT-EX-1000SZ-EZ-SD-ED-ESD.pdf
 
sedelen said:
I checked it already in the service manual. 110 is the proper size for the '82's.
page 15-8 in the service manual. 112.5 is the proper size for the '83 page 17-6.
Click here to download the service manual, your bike is covered for the most part in chapter 15.
http://www.mtsac.edu/~cliff/storage/gs/80-83_GS1100T-LT-EX-1000SZ-EZ-SD-ED-ESD.pdf
Click to expand...

Yeap we looked it up at the same time I guess haha. Service manual, Haynes manual, and the chart on Basscliff's site all say 110 main jets.

There are no mods stock exhaust and airbox w/ paper filter. I want to keep this bike as original as possible. Although I wouldn't mind upgrading to a K&N filter and 112.5 jets if that will make her run better.

Whats everyone think? Stay with 110s or go to 112.5?
 
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theres a lot of info on here regarding stuck pilot screws. forget about extractors. theyll just break and leave you in a deeper mess. wish I had read up before i ruined my first set. Luckily i found another on ebay. if penetrant doesnt work then Ive heard of cutting a groove all the way down the pilot screw "tunnel" to the screw head, and cutting the groove into that so yiu can get a bite on the screw with a slotted screwdriver. I u r not comfortable with that then there is always Chef.
 
Well if all else fails, I have a friend that works in a machine shop. He thinks they can just tap it out (all robotic).
 
sedelen said:
I checked it already in the service manual. 110 is the proper size for the '82's.
page 15-8 in the service manual. 112.5 is the proper size for the '83 page 17-6.
Click here to download the service manual, your bike is covered for the most part in chapter 15.
http://www.mtsac.edu/~cliff/storage/gs/80-83_GS1100T-LT-EX-1000SZ-EZ-SD-ED-ESD.pdf
Click to expand...

The 83 has more lift which would account for the larger mains. I'm too many mods away for the jet size in the manual to be relevant to my bike. I did however download that manual quite some time back as it is hard to find an 1100 manual with 83 info.
 
Crage said:
Yeap we looked it up at the same time I guess haha. Service manual, Haynes manual, and the chart on Basscliff's site all say 110 main jets.

There are no mods stock exhaust and airbox w/ paper filter. I want to keep this bike as original as possible. Although I wouldn't mind upgrading to a K&N filter and 112.5 jets if that will make her run better.

Whats everyone think? Stay with 110s or go to 112.5?
Click to expand...

http://www.amazon.com/SU-1250-Suzuki-Performance-Replacement-Filter/dp/B000E28KO2

I never had one of these on my 1100, but I did have one on my 750. At sea level the 750 ran fine but was a little lean (California bike with most stringent smog). It was bone stock other than the K&N filter. I upped the cam to an 1100 cam lift and it definitely needed to be stepped up.

So the change in air filter helps but don't expect a big change. If you wanted to take the top off of the air box as well you might need to go to 115 but why bother. Start with the 112.5 and it will probably be spot on and if it is not then take off the top.
 
Stock the 112.5 will work fine and you don't have to be perfect on the airbox seal.
Brand new intake boots, air box boots, stock filter and an exhaust with no leaks you could run the stock 110. But as stated these bikes were jetted on the lean side stock to please the current EPA bs.
 
The trick to removing the pilot screws is 1) a tight fitting screwdriver, 2) PB Blaster or similar, 3) heat. With a puddle of PB Blaster filling the area above screw, heat the carb body. A propane torch or heat gun works for this application. After it cools enough to touch, try moving the screw in both directions. The trick is to get it to move, even if it's just a little. If you have a properly sized screwdriver you should be able to turn the screw without damaging the slot. You need to watch how much force you use since the screw slot will strip. If the screws still won't move, use more PB Blaster and heat again. Sometimes it takes a few heat cycles before the screw will break free.
 
Nessism said:
The trick to removing the pilot screws is 1) a tight fitting screwdriver, 2) PB Blaster or similar, 3) heat. With a puddle of PB Blaster filling the area above screw, heat the carb body. A propane torch or heat gun works for this application. After it cools enough to touch, try moving the screw in both directions. The trick is to get it to move, even if it's just a little. If you have a properly sized screwdriver you should be able to turn the screw without damaging the slot. You need to watch how much force you use since the screw slot will strip. If the screws still won't move, use more PB Blaster and heat again. Sometimes it takes a few heat cycles before the screw will break free.
Click to expand...

Well I've gotten them all broken free with a PB over night soak. I can screw them all the way in, but once backed out to their original location they wont budge out anymore. Its almost like there is a stopper there. I have not tried heat yet. I have both torches and a heat gun on my work truck.
 
chef1366 said:
Stock the 112.5 will work fine and you don't have to be perfect on the airbox seal.
Brand new intake boots, air box boots, stock filter and an exhaust with no leaks you could run the stock 110. But as stated these bikes were jetted on the lean side stock to please the current EPA bs.
Click to expand...

The boots are still pretty soft, but not perfect. Everything else is in line I think. I'll order the 112.5s and not worry about sealing the airbox off.
 
There is crud built up in the port that leads to the idle mixture screw. Either cut the part off where the threads end or clean it with a drill bit but don't damage the threads. I cut the thing off with a dremmel since it's only there to cap off the screws.
 
I also have a dremmel on my work truck so if all else fails I'll start cutting.
 
Well I had some luck today! I got them all out except the one that I already boogered up.

I was able to get the screws to turn in after soaking 2 nights w/ pb blaster in the holes. I then used one of my copper bore brushes (for gun barrel cleaning) to clean the hole as best as I could. I frequently washed the hole w/ wd40 sprays. Then I backed the screw out to its "stopping" point, and then I just screwed in, out, in, out, in, out, ect.... Just bumping the stopping point each time. Stopping every 30 seconds or so the rinse the hole w/ wd40 again. Everytime I bumped the spot the screw came out little by little.

You basically just have to work the crud out. Now the last one is gonna be a bear because I already stripped the head out. My buddy, who has access to a robotic machine shop, is going to look at the last carb this weekend.

Hope this helps someone some day.
 
Broke down carb #2 tonight. The needle jet holes closest to the bottom where plugged up w/ gunk! There couldnt be much fuel flowing until at least half throttle. In the dip it goes...
 
Nice work getting the pilot screws out.

BTW, same routine is needed for removing header bolts. Lots of people snap them off due to too much force. PB Blaster, heat, work back and forth...and they will eventually come out. Wish more people would follow the technique instead of learning the hard way.

Good luck
 
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