I've searched but can't find the exact answer I'm looking for.

[leftlostcommonsense]

Suzuki Gs650gl 1982 clutch pack has a metal ring at the very back of basket then a metal plate which is held in place by a wire which sits in a groove. The wire is broken. Would it be ok to remove the wire and just put the pack back together as it was before just without the wire holding the metal plate in place or does the wire have a reason for making sure that last plate doesn't move? It would be much easier to just throw it all back together and torque it down and go but I don't wish to cause damage to something. Please explain what the wire's use is and if it is necessary. My thoughts is that last metal plate is going to stay in place no matter what considering the spring pressure and whatnot placed on it anyhow. My next question is if I were to replace the clutch handle how far out is an acceptable range for the basket to be pulled out when holding the clutch handle in? Would the pressure plate being pulled out 1/4 - 1/2 inch be sufficient? Thank you.

 

[Steve]

I have never had to get as far as the ring, but I am under the impression that it helps 'unstick' the stack of clutch plates. Not sure if that is true, but like I said, I have never had to deal with it, so have no experience 'before and after'.

Not quite sure what you are asking about the handle. When the handle is all the way out, there is just enough range of movement to fully release the clutch when the handle is pulled all the way in. I have no idea how far the pressure plate moves, but I doubt it's 1/2 inch. I don't think it's even going to be 1/4", but I have never bothered to measure.

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[dorkburger]

I had the same issue with the piano wire. Rapid Ray is adamadamant that it is not necessary- so I left it out. That was 2-3 seasons ago. No issues. I have read a few posts here that omitting it caused issues finding neutral, but in my case its been good.

 

[leftlostcommonsense]

i took it out and haven't had any issues with neutral but have to be moving pretty good to switch from 1st to second with or without using the clutch I don't know. I'm having a problem with the bike lugging and trying to move forward when I click into 1st at a stand still and clutch lever pressed in. My bike shifts smooth as butter whether I use clutch or not while going though and the lurch forward and lugging isn't that big of a deal. It doesn't kill the bike just would like to know what causes it. I have the exact amount of oil measured to the exact ml the manual calls for after a filter and oil change so that can't be the issue. Other than these problems the bike runs like a dream.

 

[leftlostcommonsense]

The reason I asked about the lever was because I put a different clutch lever on it and wasn't sure if the original maybe pulled the clutch wire more than the other or not but if you say the basket is supposed to only move out maybe 1/4 when you press the lever then I should be in the clear

 

[tom203]

"he bike lugging and trying to move forward when I click into 1st at a stand still and clutch lever pressed in. My bike shifts smooth as butter "

make sure the clutch lever arm is angled slightly back...this gives the required cable travel to fully release clutch..see pic. About 1/4 inch of play here before you feel plate contact .once warmed up, it should not jump fourward

 

[cowboyup3371]

You may also want to go through the clutch adjustment process to ensure everything is working correctly

 

[Guest]

Sounds like part of the problem is a bit of clutch drag when the oil is cold. The heavier the oil the worse the drag. I use a 20-50 here where I'm at almost all year round. During the colder months when I drop it in first gear with out it warming up good, the bike does a pretty good jump. Once it warms up it pretty much disappears. If that isn't the case with yours, check your adjustments and you may need to pull the clutch plates and inspect them and just clean them off. Worst case is replace the plates if they are out of specs.