I think curing completely is the secret to having it work permanently in gasoline.
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JB weld - stable in gas?
- Thread starter pano
- Start date
I think curing completely is the secret to having it work permanently in gasoline.
T
tfb
Guest
OK, that's inspired me: let's start a fresh thread, 'Chemicals and the Art of Motorcycle Maintenance', where we all get to tell about our favourite chemicals for fixing our GS Suzukis...
I used JB Weld to fill in the pits on the caliper of my GT750 about 8 yrs ago. Still holding fine and not leaking a drop. I had my doubts before using it so I soaked a wad of hardened JB in a glass jar of brake fluid for a week first. The brake fluid didn't seem to faze it in the slightest. I also figured it was cheaper than buying a replacement caliper. Brakes still work great and don't leak a drop. Just my experience.
Willie in TN
I like JB but that scares me, if a tiny flake of it gets loose inside the brake system it could block the return port in the master cylinder, if that happens the brakes will stay on and not release when you let go of the lever, it can even lock up without touching the brake lever at all as any fluid expansion from heat will cause the brakes to come on, making more heat and more expansion until it locks up.
All epoxies are impervious to gasoline. JB Weld, and Quicksteel are both epoxies. The biggest cause of failure in using any adhesive is poor surface preparation. The second biggest cause is probably poor joint design. The broken post is an example of a butt joint, which is the worst case scenario in an adhesive joint. There's just too small of a surface area to bond to hold up to the forces acting on it. Drilling out the center and fitting some type of dowel pin is one option (the small nail mentioned above). Putting some material over the outside of the post to overlap the broken area would be another. Aluminum foil would probably work well, but I would be concerned that the household grades may be too thin, unless you used several layers with some epoxy in between each layer. If you could find some that was equal in thickness to 3-4 layers of the regular stuff, I would expect it to work well. For surface prep on aluminum is especially critical. Water has a way of adsorbing to the surface of aluminum and weakening the bond. Prepare the surface immediately before applying the epoxy, don't let the parts sit around. The last step of prep should be to rinse the surface with acetone to pull water away from the surface.
