Jet Needle Question URGENT

[gs road racer]

Move away from Edmonton!!!!!!!Following this thread has been very entertaining!!:clap:

For some stupid reason, the baffle won't come out. There only seems to be the one small bolt holding the end cone in. Pull the bolt, grab the end pipe with pliers and it won't even budge.
Its too friggen cold out to be laying on the driveway dicking with it.

 

[Rick65Cat]

I thought I'd go back to the settings that the carb was set up with when I first had the jetting done. 1 1/4 turns out on the pilot fuel screws, and 1 1/2 turns out on the side air screws. If it worked then, it should re-work.

Bike started right up. Jumped on and got 200 yrds down the road and it quit. Had to push it home.

After I got it in its parking spot, I stood there looking at it a few minutes and decided to try it without the gas cap....took it off and hit the button..fired right up.
So I took the gascap to my workbench and tore it down. There didn't seem to be any grunge coming out of it but I had the knowledge it was clean.
Jumped on the bike and got 400 yrds away before it quit. A long push at 52 yrs old. So its not the cap. Next I'm gonna take the petcock off and check the filter.
Its getting gas, just not enough. If the filter is clean, then the carbs are coming back off for another cleaning. This time i'll use a pressurized can of carb cleaner on the orifices as well as dipping.

 

[srsupertrap]

Sounds like the right course of action. The vacuum petcock are also suspect at the 30 year mark. Might want to use prime instead and see if that makes a difference? It's probably gas flow related rather than carb related.

 

[Rick65Cat]

Yep, I was kinda thinking the same. My next move is to drain my gas and filter it through a cheescloth into a gas can. Then pull the petcock out and check it. Hopefuly the O-rings and gasket are reusable.
Do all the easy stuff before ripping the carbs apart again.

 

[Rick65Cat]

K....Got the "quitting after a few hundred yards" thing fixed.

Gonna start getting serious on the fuel screw tuning

 

[Spyderman]

K....Got the "quitting after a few hundred yards" thing fixed.

Gonna start getting serious on the fuel screw tuning

so what was the cause for it quitting after a few hundred yards??

 

[Rick65Cat]

so what was the cause for it quitting after a few hundred yards??

Ummm...Uhhhh...
You gotta remember I've been out of the loop of motorcycling for over 25 years.

I was outta gas..

Put it on reserve, and it ran like a champ right to the gas station.

 

[Spyderman]

Ummm...Uhhhh...
You gotta remember I've been out of the loop of motorcycling for over 25 years.

I was outta gas..

Put it on reserve, and it ran like a champ right to the gas station.

hmmmmm
i think Homer Simpson said it best
D'OH !!!!!!!!!!!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H22t-tiWiLw&feature=related

 

[Rick65Cat]

Turned my pilot fuel screws back in 1/4 turn. At this point they are 1 full turn out from seated. No backfiring on deceleration so far. Bike ran good tonight.
Side screws are still 1 1/2 out.

Have to work tomorrow. Theres no hurry to lean it out more. In theory turning in the pilot screws from 1 1/4 turns out to only 1 turn out should increase my fuel economy 20% right?

Still waiting on my 3 valve cover gaskets and 3 timing cover gaskets i bought from Cycle Parts Nation. I'll check the ign. timing and valves when I get them.

**EDIT** "Next morning (Apr. 17)"
Yes, it is warmer at 8:30 AM but the bike fired right away on full choke without cranking over and over. To me thats promising.

 

[Rick65Cat]

Update

Update

Ok, the last time I drove the bike was April 16th. Pilot screws were 1 full turn out with the side screws out 1 1/2 turns.
Today I checked the float height with the drilled out drain screw with the soldered in piece of copper tube (Thanks again Spyderman) and some clear vinyl hose. (floats are ok)
I also pulled my bowls and went down one size on my mains from 102.5 to 100. Keeping in mind I'm running a stock airbox and stock filter with the lid in place, as well as a baffled Mac 4 into 1.
While the bowls were off it made easier access to the pilot screws and I turned them in 1/8th of a turn. (now 7/8ths turn out) and leaving the side screws at 1 1/2 out.

The bike has sat through rather cool weather for 2 weeks and I know my battery isn't the best. I fully expected the battery to die trying to start it.
....Full choke, hit the button and darned if it didn't start after about 8 cranks.
I'm getting close...real close, I can feel it.

NOW!!! I have to decide whether to sell my skunk or not...I came across a `78 GS1000 "E" Skunk.....buried behind a `78 1000 L. Both in a shed for years. Just have to convince to owner he needs to part with it.

 

[Rick65Cat]

Took it out today. Runs strong with only the very occasional "pop" out of the exhaust on deceleration.
(pilots at 7/8 turn from seated and side air screws at 1 1/2 turns from seated)

Weird though..on initial start-up on the sidestand, the bike pops and farts with the choke on. Once it warms up its better.

 

[TheCafeKid]

Took it out today. Runs strong with only the very occasional "pop" out of the exhaust on deceleration.
(pilots at 7/8 turn from seated and side air screws at 1 1/2 turns from seated)

Weird though..on initial start-up on the sidestand, the bike pops and farts with the choke on. Once it warms up its better.

Popping and..*ahem* farting on choke when cold isnt all that uncommon. The bike is lean when cold, it will richen up as it warms.

 

[Guest]

Popping and..*ahem* farting on choke when cold isnt all that uncommon. The bike is lean when cold, it will richen up as it warms.

I was thinking he may be leaving the choke on too long causing it to spit and sputter.
I'd suggest start turning the choke off as soon as the bike fires up. No throttle. Use the choke till it idles on its own. Then blip the throttle a few times once the choke is completely off.

 

[srsupertrap]

Took it out today. Runs strong with only the very occasional "pop" out of the exhaust on deceleration.
(pilots at 7/8 turn from seated and side air screws at 1 1/2 turns from seated)

Weird though..on initial start-up on the sidestand, the bike pops and farts with the choke on. Once it warms up its better.

Rick65Cat,
A couple of follow up questions

1) Did you obtain the highest idle with the air screws set at 1 1/2 turns out? Someone might want to comment but popping on deceleration I believe suggests a lean mixture.
2) What happens to throttle response when you turn the air screws in a 1/4 turn?
3) Have you vacuum synched the carbs @ 3000 rpm yet?
4) 0- 1/4 plug chops look like what?

When your done with all this carb stuff your next mod should be the coil relay modification if you have not done so already. That will help make starting a little quicker. Last your bike looks great right now, a lighter GS is a better bike

 

[Rick65Cat]

Present settings,
Mains are 100's, Stock needles with clip in the #3 groove, Pilots are 7/8 turn out and air screws are 1 1/2 turns out.

**1) Did you obtain the highest idle with the air screws set at 1 1/2 turns out? Someone might want to comment but popping on deceleration I believe suggests a lean mixture. **

No, the 1 1/2 is where it runs well. I had turned it in to 1 turn as I was told it was out too much. Well, it ran crappy so I turned them back out.
I did try to "Adjust one air screw to get maximun rpm then turn down the idle and move to the next carb" But adjusting the airscrew never made a difference. Maybe my pilots were too rich, I don't know. Right now the airscrews are backed out enough to see the first thread on the brass of the screw.

2) What happens to throttle response when you turn the air screws in a 1/4 turn?

See above

3) Have you vacuum synched the carbs @ 3000 rpm yet?

No, I just got my valve cover and timing cover gaskets from "CycleNation on Friday and I had a 2 day 1st aid course saturday and sunday so I couldn't work on it. I want to check valves and ign. timing before sync"ing the carbs. I also want to get a little closer in the jetting first. Its still running rich even at 7/8 out on the pilots and 1 1/2 out on the pilots.

4) 0- 1/4 plug chops look like what?

Haven't done a chop lately but the first showed real sooty plugs. They are still black now but less black if that makes any sense. It **might** be the time for a chop next run out.

No coil mods yet...I'm a dummy with electrical so I'd need my hand held through it. lol

 

[Rick65Cat]

Adjusted the valves today. Had 3 tight ones and the next shim size took care of it.
I know its been mentioned in other threads, one of the shims I pulled out is a 2.65X. I'll have to get an accurate measurement on it to see what it is.

I'm gonna change my oil and filter tomorrow and check the timing too. Then throw in new plugs and go do a plug chop.

 

[Rick65Cat]

Well,.....after a long crappy winter and way too much time (and money) spent on a (OLD 4 wheel) project I bought last Nov. I'm trying to get back into the Suzy.
Today, after reading this whole thread and reviewing my written notes trying to remember what screw did what, I changed the mains back to the stock 97.5s. I'm going to leave the side air screws and pilot screws where they are for now til I get gas in it and charge the battery back up. Go buy yet another set of new B8ES plugs and do another chop.
I'll warm the bike up with the old plugs and get out on the hiway with them. Then pull over and put the new ones in and give 'er.