Jet Recommendations w/ w/out pods.

[thkbaron]

So I'm sure this question has been answered before so I appoligize for not being able to find it. I have a 1980 gs750l that I got this last winter. Everythings is stock except for the exhaust which is off a 1981 750E. So it's stockish. The po supposedly rebuilt the carbs w/ new orings and what not. It runs pretty good. not the best gas milage 40 hwy and 25ish in town. It's a bit smoky on startup although once it's warm that goes away. It smells a bit rich. Lots of stop lights and very short runs. Less that 1 mile usually. Anyways. I just wanted to ride it the first summer, and make sure it's going to be a sound bike. Should be since there's only 7500 miles on it. Anyways. My plans for the winter are to redo the carbs again myself so I have a good baseline. I plan on putting Vance and Hines exhaust on it, not the drag setup by the other one and maybe doing pods. Mainly because it's a bear with the stock airbox setup to get the carbs in and out. Anyone have a setup like this that runs really well and will be able to tell me what their jets and other settings are so I have a good idea where to start? I appreciate it.

 

[Steve]

... and maybe doing pods. Mainly because it's a bear with the stock airbox setup to get the carbs in and out.

You are changing to pods and adding all the hassle that entails just because it's so hard to get the carbs in and out?

You do realize, I hope, that after you do the carbs PROPERLY, you will probably never have to pull the carbs again?

Jetting suggestions? Dynojet Stage 3 kit. It will come with the Stage 1 kit parts, too. However, even with the DJ kit, you will likely have to have your carbs in and out a couple times to fine-tune the new jetting.

With your "stock-ish" pipes, stock jetting will work fine, going to the header and leaving the airbox on, you migh only have to bump the main jets 2 or 3 sizes and possibly lift the needle a bit.

.

 

[posplayr]

I just did my California 1981 GS750E bone stock (4:2 exhaust and airbox) except:

K&N filter in the stock airbox


It ran well on stock carbs/jets albiet a bit lean.

After a rebuild, with 1982 GS1100E intake cam (exhaust is the same for the two bikes)

I bumped the main up from a 112.5 Mikuni to a DJ 124 (IIRC equivalent to 116 Mikuni) and the bike ran very well. Stock needles and height

 

[thkbaron]

Yeah I don't particularly want to change the airbox setup, but it's way easier to remove the carbs with pods. that's my opinion anyways. I think it's a pain the butt. Why frustrate yourself with something so easily fixed. I'd rather put my energy into tuning rather than taking the time to pull the carbs in and out slowly.

 

[Steve]

Yeah I don't particularly want to change the airbox setup, but it's way easier to remove the carbs with pods. that's my opinion anyways. I think it's a pain the butt. Why frustrate yourself with something so easily fixed. I'd rather put my energy into tuning rather than taking the time to pull the carbs in and out slowly.

My point was that in stock form, it's already "tuned", and if you clean the carbs, you only have to pull them once (to clean the carbs), so it doesn't really matter.

However, if you would really rather make it easier to pull the carbs just so you can pull the carbs, ... well, that is apparently your version of "fun".

.

 

[thkbaron]

no i understand what you meant. Once the things are cleaned and tuned right I'm sure they won't have to come out again, but in the mean time, I know they will a few times unless I get lucky with the jets and other settings. You have to admit it does take some time with the stock airbox setup ;o). Of course I could be a moron too. There's always that distinct possibility. hehe

 

[posplayr]

no i understand what you meant. Once the things are cleaned and tuned right I'm sure they won't have to come out again, but in the mean time, I know they will a few times unless I get lucky with the jets and other settings. You have to admit it does take some time with the stock airbox setup ;o). Of course I could be a moron too. There's always that distinct possibility. hehe

If the airbox boots (between the airbox and the carb intakes ) are hard and non pliable it can be nearly impossible to get the carbs back on. (ask chef1366 how we know this). For $50 I got some new ones off of ebay and the install was quite easy.

 

[thkbaron]

Hmmm I guess that makes sense. I should probably replace those anyways. I'm guessing they are the originals although since I've never had a new set it my hand I don't know if the old ones are really stiff or not. Since mine are not the ones that bolt to the engine, you have to pull them off both the carb and the engine it'self. I'm guessing the bolt on ones make taking the carbs off much easier. Mine still seem fairly flexible though.

 

[TKGS750L]

Baron

Baron

Dyno-Jet kit stage 3 is available for your bike, just installed my own, gives main jets,needles, directions, suggestive jetting (supplied) suggestive fuel mixture screw settings. Your solution lies in a combination of the above. And NO I would not bother with the stock air-box set up EVER.

 

[TheCafeKid]

Dyno-Jet kit stage 3 is available for your bike, just installed my own, gives main jets,needles, directions, suggestive jetting (supplied) suggestive fuel mixture screw settings. Your solution lies in a combination of the above. And NO I would not bother with the stock air-box set up EVER.

There are trade offs with running a jet kit. Even if you know what you're doing.
In areas of the world where weather/ambient temps flip on the drop of a hat, for those who insist on their bike performing flawlessly, otherwise stock or built, running pods and a pipe and jet kit can become a tinkerers obsession.
Once serviced with new rubber bits and a fresh filter, a stock box is virtually "tinker free".
The HP gains, with an otherwise stock motor, to be had from installing a run of the mill pipe, pods and a jet kit are fairly minimal (however, weight savings can be fairly substantial) and in many cases low end and mid range power can take a slight hit in favor of top end rush.

I have and will continue to run either set up, depending on the situation and the bike. I'd install pods/pipe/jet kit in certain bikes, and not bother with others.
A GS1100E sounds fantastic with a nice pipe growl and the intake snarl of pods, while I much preferred the nice quiet smooth sounds of my now ex bone stock GS1000G....it just all depends on what I have decided that particular bike is for.

It should be noted as well that often times even Dynojets instructions need a modicum of adjustment, particularly in the needle clip setting. I've often found their "suggested setting" to be rather lean...They aren't quite plug and play, but not far off. However, if you've no experience with how the bike is supposed to run to begin with, or no experience in tuning/understanding carburetors, it makes it difficult to discern what the bike is telling you needs to be corrected. Which is why generally I suggest getting the bike running well in its stock form first. It's much easier to fix and put back to stock, and then learn what a properly tuned bike feels like, than tryin to sort out issues on top of having to figure out carb set up...

 

[tkent02]

I have and will continue to run either set up, depending on the situation and the bike. I'd install pods/pipe/jet kit in certain bikes, and not bother with others.
A GS1100E sounds fantastic with a nice pipe growl and the intake snarl of pods, while I much preferred the nice quiet smooth sounds of my now ex bone stock GS1000G....it just all depends on what I have decided that particular bike is for.

+1, if I want a pain in the ass, constant filter cleaning, lots of fun tuning, and **** away a lot of gas money, I'll go with pods. If I want to get on and ride a perfectly carbureted bike, I'll take the air box, every time.

 

[TKGS750L]

There are trade offs with running a jet kit. Even if you know what you're doing.
In areas of the world where weather/ambient temps flip on the drop of a hat, for those who insist on their bike performing flawlessly, otherwise stock or built, running pods and a pipe and jet kit can become a tinkerers obsession.
Once serviced with new rubber bits and a fresh filter, a stock box is virtually "tinker free".
The HP gains, with an otherwise stock motor, to be had from installing a run of the mill pipe, pods and a jet kit are fairly minimal (however, weight savings can be fairly substantial) and in many cases low end and mid range power can take a slight hit in favor of top end rush.

I have and will continue to run either set up, depending on the situation and the bike. I'd install pods/pipe/jet kit in certain bikes, and not bother with others.
A GS1100E sounds fantastic with a nice pipe growl and the intake snarl of pods, while I much preferred the nice quiet smooth sounds of my now ex bone stock GS1000G....it just all depends on what I have decided that particular bike is for.

It should be noted as well that often times even Dynojets instructions need a modicum of adjustment, particularly in the needle clip setting. I've often found their "suggested setting" to be rather lean...They aren't quite plug and play, but not far off. However, if you've no experience with how the bike is supposed to run to begin with, or no experience in tuning/understanding carburetors, it makes it difficult to discern what the bike is telling you needs to be corrected. Which is why generally I suggest getting the bike running well in its stock form first. It's much easier to fix and put back to stock, and then learn what a properly tuned bike feels like, than tryin to sort out issues on top of having to figure out carb set up...

CafeKid you make very valid points, I am just trying to provide an alternative solution owning the same model with the two piece air-box.

I would hope all reading will see the pros and cons and make there own decisions.

I will say I have seen positive results in the set-up I'm running with pods, and jetting if other individuals feel so strongly against this all they need do is leave it stock.