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Jetting questions w/ new 4-1 exhaust

  • Thread starter Thread starter gearhead13
  • Start date Start date
G

gearhead13

Guest
I got my new V&H 4-1 today and installed it.:D Easier than I thought, only took a few hours. Pipe cost over 1/2 of what the bike cost:rolleyes:
I wasn't prepared for how loud it would be. First off, the bike starts and idles better and comes off choke way sooner, which was unexpected. Took the bike for a ride, and it has hesitation around 4-5K rpm, seems to have more on top but its hard to tell from seat of the pants.
The pipe came with a sheet of paper with jetting recommendations, it says to remove stock airbox lid, increase main jet to 130 and use a 42.5 pilot jet. I am not sure what the pilot jet does. Will these changes remove the hesitation? Stock main is supposed to be 112.5 and pilot jet is already 45 depending on what manual you read:confused: I would think that the needle should be richened and main increased.
Thanks
Gear.



jz6yh0.jpg
 
yes, richen the needles first
that's all you may need to do (as you have a canadian model)
 
gearhead13 said:
First off, the bike starts and idles better and comes off choke way sooner, which was unexpected
Click to expand...

the original pipes are double skinned and more easily disipate the heat from the engine so it takes longer to warm up

the faster flow of gases in the 4-1 system leans the fuel/air ratio accelerating the warm up of the engine
 
thanks Psyguy.
Q: is it possible to pull the slides out with the carbs still on?
I am going to be pulling the carbs and cleaning them, but I am waiting for the o-ring kit from Robert Barr.
 
not 100% sure for your exact model, but...

not 100% sure for your exact model, but...

yes, most likely possible to pull out the slides with the carbs still on
watch the diaphragms dont get damaged though
 
gearhead13 said:
Q: is it possible to pull the slides out with the carbs still on?
I am going to be pulling the carbs and cleaning them, but I am waiting for the o-ring kit from Robert Barr.
Click to expand...
A: Yes, it is possible to pull the slides with the carbs still on the bike. But ...
butt1.gif
(Seems therre's always a butt in there somewhere.)

I have occasionally had problems getting the slides back in, trying to get the needle back down into the jet.

Since the instructions say you need to change the main jet, too, why not just do it all at once when the carbs are already off the bike?

Oh, and if you are waiting for o-rings from Robert, you won't be waiting long. I have always had good, quick service from him. :dancing:

.
 
Do you think a 130 main is a good place to start?
I have to get them ordered in as no one around here carries any kind of decent selection.
 
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If the stock pilot jet is 45 I'd bump that up to 47.5
If the stock main jet is 112.5 I'd bump that up to 122.5 to 120
You'll also have to raise the needle by replacing the stock plastic needle spacer with washers. To raise the needle you will need more needle sticking out of the end of the spacers. Do a search. I've written about how many washers=a spacer but I can't remember.
I'd personally go with a Dynojet stage 1.
 
non-usa models often have bigger jets from the factory
they also have needles that have groves so its easy to adjust them

i would try this first before spending money ordering any new jets

for comparison, i run 115 main jet and 42.5 pilot jet (stock setting) with 4-1 exhaust (on an 850)
 
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Ya, they are notched, but they were on the second to last notch already. I took it for a ride today and it overheated within 20 minutes:eek:
I am waiting for main jets. I moved the clip to full rich and added a little spacer as well. Goin for a ride now to see what it does now:confused:
 
I was able to pull the slides out with the carbs still on, no problem.
Runs better. Maybe a tad rich.
Sounds like a can of metal nuts at idle, need to deal with that next.
 
That's how all my stock needles have looked. I always switch to Dynojet.
 
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