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jetting

  • Thread starter Thread starter bubbajerr8
  • Start date Start date
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bubbajerr8

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think this is best place for this question i have gs1000e 78 with 4into 1 and pods was wondering what i should run for pilot jets and main? were sholud i set the air mixture to i completly cleaned them wanna no what should set them at thanks jerry
 
bubbajerr8 said:
think this is best place for this question i have gs1000e 78 with 4into 1 and pods was wondering what i should run for pilot jets and main? were sholud i set the air mixture to i completly cleaned them wanna no what should set them at thanks jerry
Click to expand...
Without knowing what brand of pipe and pods...
17.5 pilot jets.
Jet needle e-clip position at "4 1.2". That means using a jetting spacer of approx' .022" and placing it directly on top the e-clip. If using stock jet needles, place the e-clip and spacer assembly in the bottom groove (5th from the top) on the jet needle. You can try position 4 if you want and test. Position 4, 1 position richer than stock, is the mimimum needed for your mods. Many times position 5 is needed. Better results from the Dynojet stage 3 kit.
Use 130 Mikuni main jets. If your pipe and pods are quality and ALL other basic tuning is done correctly the 130 mains are perfect (Approx' size used by Dynojet in their stage 3 ket kits). A DJ 138 and Mikuni 130 are nearly identical in size.
REMOVE, the two floatbowl vent lines and leave the ports open.
Start with the pilot fuel screws underneath at 3/4 turn out from lightly seated. Be sure the screws are sharp tipped and not broken in the carb bodies.
Side air screws are set using the highest rpm method and will generally end up 1 1/2 to 2 trurns out.
Bench synch and then vacuum tool synch the carbs.
 
I have seen reference to leaving the float bowl vent lines off before and always wondered why that makes a difference. How does it affect things? Thanks.
 
UncleBen said:
I have seen reference to leaving the float bowl vent lines off before and always wondered why that makes a difference. How does it affect things? Thanks.
Click to expand...
And I've always found it difficult to explain, partly because I don't know exactly what's happening either.
I just know pods flow much better and since there's no "closed" airbox associated with the carbs anymore this changes how the floatbowl vent lines breath. If I'm guessing right, the comparatively restrictive airbox and smallish vent lines match well when it comes to venting the entire system. Remove the airbox for pods and the vent lines aren't a good match for the pods. They don't "keep up" with the pods freer flow. A vortex can happen at the vent lines and this compromises flow/venting even more. Crosswinds generally are the worst conditions and results in poor venting and the carb starves for fuel. Shortening the vent lines seems to do nothing to help. Removing them is best but even then I've experienced brief fuel starvation on windy days on my 1000.
The effect on my 1000 was really severe. When I first tested a stage 3 DJ kit I didn't follow their suggestion. I didn't want to remove the vent lines and tried running it with them on. First ride was in to work in the morning, no wind and nice temps, and my bike acted like it was running low on fuel, like it needed to be switched to reserve. I knew better, pulled over and yanked the lines and it ran well the rest of the way in. For my bike and a couple others who used to live nearby, the results were similar. So I always suggest doing it because I know many have never heard about it.
 
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