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just bought an 85 GS550E, bad carb problem

  • Thread starter Thread starter newgsman
  • Start date Start date
can anyone tell me if these carbs have an air adjustment or if the fuel is the only way to regulate the carbs?
 
newgsman said:
can anyone tell me if these carbs have an air adjustment or if the fuel is the only way to regulate the carbs?
Click to expand...


go to basscliffs website and download the manual
the air jets are fixed in place and ther is only one size

this should not affect idle
 
newgsman said:
can anyone tell me if these carbs have an air adjustment or if the fuel is the only way to regulate the carbs?
Click to expand...

Hi,

There are no air screws on the CV style carbs. The screw on top is sometimes referred to as an "mixture screw" and regulates fuel in the idle circuit.


Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff
 
BassCliff said:
Hi,

There are no air screws on the CV style carbs. The screw on top is sometimes referred to as an "mixture screw" and regulates fuel in the idle circuit.


Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff
Click to expand...



I have been thinking

did you break the carbs apart and perhaps alter the relationship of the spring mechanism that allows the throttle shafts to be synched?

I otherwise think it is the pick up tube in the float bowls that are gummed up

they are pretty small orifices.....
 
newgsman,

Welcome!

I've got the same bike and I also had carb issues when I the bike first came to me.

For me, the solution was as follows:

1) Clean the carbs THOROUGHLY. My methods included completely dissassembling the carbs and going through them with spray carb cleaner, soft wire for the tiniest orafices (jets, etc) and compressed air. Pay particular attention to idle circuit and choke circuit as well as all jets. If you don't need safety glasses for this process, you're doin' it wrong. ;) Many folks also use the dip but it was not necessary with my carbs.

2) Replace the o-rings between the intake flanges/boots and the engine. This ensure a proper seal and is one of the most common issues with these bikes.

3) Re-assemble carbs, bench sync and re-install.

4) Replace air filter.

5) Ensure no air leaks from air box to engine.

6) Use idle screw to set basic idle.

7) Use pilot screws (often referred to as mix screws, fuel-air screws, fuel screws, air screws) to fine tune idle mix on each barrell. These are the screws on the top of each carb that are sealed from the factory and require that the sealing plug be drilled out to access the screws.

Be advised that the pilot screws do not meter only air or only fuel but a fuel rich mix of air and fuel. The do this when the butterflies are closed. Their output is meant to supplement, as needed, the same fuel rich mix that has been introduced to the main bore via the bypass ports, thereby providing the mix required for proper idle.

I all else is well and your idle is running low with the idle screw maxed out, then it is possible that the pilot screws are turned in too far. Easiest thing to do with a running bike is to simply adjust these screw 1/2 turn at a time (on all four bores) and observe any idle difference until you get closer to spec idle and then fine tune from there.

Best of luck!
 
Calvin Blackmore said:
I have been thinking

did you break the carbs apart and perhaps alter the relationship of the spring mechanism that allows the throttle shafts to be synched?

I otherwise think it is the pick up tube in the float bowls that are gummed up

they are pretty small orifices.....
Click to expand...
+1 on that. Bench sync the carbs to ensure both sides are at a similar starting point. Syncing these carbs is critical to a proper idle set up. A starting point for the idle mixture screws is 2 turns out, perhaps even 2.5.

I would suspect a part or something is missing on the main idle adjustment. The shop manual (BassCliff's site) wants to balance the carbs at 1700 RPM so if you cannot get it above 1000, something may not only be wrong, but missing or in the wrong place. Or perhaps the idle adjustment screw is too short for some obscure or unimaginable reason.

Getting the idle smooth is a bit of an art form on these carbs. I have resorted to using a ColorTune kit to fine tune the idle mixture and I still want to have another go at it as I think I am still a bit rich. I have also found that setting the idle up around 1250 RPM is a bit more stable on this 25 year old bike with 30,000 km on it and who knows what previous owner abuse.
 
MacGyver said:
+1 on that. Bench sync the carbs to ensure both sides are at a similar starting point. Syncing these carbs is critical to a proper idle set up. A starting point for the idle mixture screws is 2 turns out, perhaps even 2.5.

I would suspect a part or something is missing on the main idle adjustment. The shop manual (BassCliff's site) wants to balance the carbs at 1700 RPM so if you cannot get it above 1000, something may not only be wrong, but missing or in the wrong place. Or perhaps the idle adjustment screw is too short for some obscure or unimaginable reason.

Getting the idle smooth is a bit of an art form on these carbs. I have resorted to using a ColorTune kit to fine tune the idle mixture and I still want to have another go at it as I think I am still a bit rich. I have also found that setting the idle up around 1250 RPM is a bit more stable on this 25 year old bike with 30,000 km on it and who knows what previous owner abuse.
Click to expand...

1700? I believe that it's 1100, +/1 100 RPM.
 
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