Just got a GS550E with some issues...

[Nerobro]

Well I just picked up a 1980 GS550E

The bike has 53k miles on it. The previous owner painted it matte black. It's good looking.

the bike had the turn signals removed, and I intend on replacing them. Any suggestions as to where to buy replacement peices? I'm not terriably interested in stock parts, but modern looking bits that are cheap would be good.

The bike also lacks rear view mirrors, I'd like some suggestions as to what I can put on the bike cheaply. Again, looking good is a plus. Cheap is somewhat more important though.

The charging system is healthy, the headlight is bright. But the taillight is out. It may just be the bulb. I will be investigating that this weekend.

Right now the clutch drags. I think that I'm just not able to pull the clutch out far enough. I see there's an adjuster on the clutch handle, but is there another adjustment I should check as well?

The shifter is loose, I haven't had the chance to investigate it's attachemtn method yet. (I know asking before I looked isnt' a plan that makes me look good here, but I'm at work, and anxious, so anything would be apreciated)

The choke causes the bike to idle at 5000rpm or so. Which seems a might bit high. Is this abnormal?

Looking inside the tank shows a LITTLE rust. nothing flaking though. I figure if I keep the tank full it should prevent the rust from propagating. (remove water source)

I was told I should also replace the fuel line from the carb to the gas tank.

I need the rubber cover to the top of the fork slider.

OH yes, the rear tire needs replacement, do you have any suggestions for what I should shoe my bike with?

Okey, enough kevetching..... The bike has a new battery, freshly cleaned carbs, a good front tire, it appears to never have been dropped!, shocks with good dampening in them still, the clocks work, all the indicator lights work. it sounds nice, the exhaust is solid, the bars are straight, the pegs aren't terriably worn. the charging system seems good.

Well... What should I watch for? Is there anything I should be prepared for?

Oh yes, two more things. What's the primary drive ratio? What are the transmission gear ratios? And what are the stock sprocket tooth counts?

 

[Nerobro]

*begs a bit* It would appear my post has slid off the first page. I don't think I violated any of the general rules for getting good responces.... Maybe I just left to much information.

Any help would be apreciated.

However.... An update...

I went to the auto parts store, and bought a new taillight bulb. It's a model 1024. the auto parts guy looked at me funny when I said the number was on the bulb.

I thought the clutch was mal adjusted... i'm not so sure now. after some serious readjustment at the lever, I just got clutch slip! So I moved it back. It's now somewhere in the milddle and seems to hold well. I"m still concerned about the fairly serious clunk when I shift it into gear. Neutral is also hard to find... but I'm willing to blame that on the next paragraph.

As for the loose shifter lever, I think I found the way it's ment to be attached. There is a grove at the end of the shaft, and it appears a c clip, or e clip is missing there. I will endevor to find a suitable replacement.

I'm TERRIABLY impressed with the preformance of the bike. The PO punched out the ends of the exhaust cans. I didnt' know this... but with the amount of noise the bike makes.. and seeing the remanants of the last baffles still in there convinced me of this ;-) It sounds really nice.. but a tad loud. I'm considdering buying an aftermarket set of pipes.

 

[Anonymous]

Re: Just got a GS550E with some issues...

the bike had the turn signals removed, and I intend on replacing them. Any suggestions as to where to buy replacement peices? I'm not terriably interested in stock parts, but modern looking bits that are cheap would be good.

I assume you live in the US. I'm not shure what's the best place to buy aftermarket parts, but from what I've learned from other GSR members, http://www.ronayers.com/ and http://www.denniskirk.com are good places. Perhaps US members have more ideas on that.
Just make sure you get some turn signals with a 21 Watt bulb, else you'll have to replace the turn signal relay too.

The bike also lacks rear view mirrors, I'd like some suggestions as to what I can put on the bike cheaply. Again, looking good is a plus. Cheap is somewhat more important though.

Same answer as above. The mirrors have regular 10mm metric thread.

Right now the clutch drags. I think that I'm just not able to pull the clutch out far enough. I see there's an adjuster on the clutch handle, but is there another adjustment I should check as well?

You did the right thing, to first try the adjustment on the clutch handle. There is another adjuster behind the small cover on the left side of the engine. It's a screw with a counternut that holds it in place. If you loosen the nut, you can adjust the clutch rod by turning the screw in or out. I wouldn't try that if the adjuster on the clutch handle works fine for your bike.

The shifter is loose, I haven't had the chance to investigate it's attachemtn method yet. (I know asking before I looked isnt' a plan that makes me look good here, but I'm at work, and anxious, so anything would be apreciated)

As you found out yourself, there is a groove at the end of the shaft. There should be a clip that holds the shifter in place. You can use any clip that fits.

The choke causes the bike to idle at 5000rpm or so. Which seems a might bit high. Is this abnormal?

We also own a GS550; the choke is very sensitive too. Either the engine stalls or it idles at 3000 rpm or more. It's hard to find a setting somewhere in the middle. So I don't think it's a very uncommon "problem".

Looking inside the tank shows a LITTLE rust. nothing flaking though. I figure if I keep the tank full it should prevent the rust from propagating. (remove water source).

I was told I should also replace the fuel line from the carb to the gas tank.

Just get an in-line fuel filter, so that you don't get any rust in the carbs.

I need the rubber cover to the top of the fork slider.

I wouldn't know if there are universal ones you could use, or if you need a specific Suzuki cover. Check the websites mentioned above. Perhaps anyone else has any ideas?

OH yes, the rear tire needs replacement, do you have any suggestions for what I should shoe my bike with?

There are different opinions on that subject. To me, Bridgestone, Metzeler or Avon seem good choices. You might want to try the "search" option to find other topics about tires and tire choices.

Okey, enough kevetching..... The bike has a new battery, freshly cleaned carbs, a good front tire, it appears to never have been dropped!, shocks with good dampening in them still, the clocks work, all the indicator lights work. it sounds nice, the exhaust is solid, the bars are straight, the pegs aren't terriably worn. the charging system seems good.

Well... What should I watch for? Is there anything I should be prepared for?

The GS is a very reliable and "bulletproof" bike. If the charging system works okay (that is the only "weak point" that these bikes seem to have; but don't forget we're talking about 20 year old bikes, or sometimes even older 8O ), I wouldn't know about any other serious problems.

Oh yes, two more things. What's the primary drive ratio? What are the transmission gear ratios? And what are the stock sprocket tooth counts?

My advice: buy a manual. You'll find all these specs in there and it's very useful if you need to repair something.
You can find some info on this website too: http://www.partspartners.com/html/gs550.html

Hope this helps.

 

[Nerobro]

Thank you!

Thank you!

AH the kind of reply I was looking for. Thank you for taking the time to type all of that out for me. *absorbs the juicy information*

I'm really new to bikes... So I didn't know there were "standards" for things like turn signals and rear view mirrors. That makes life a LOT easier.

Then again, i'm coming from a paintball background.... I should assumed that there were some standards. For that industry things are 6/24, 10/32, or 1/8npt.

 

[Anonymous]

ebay ebay ebay

 

[Anonymous]

Just another idea for your front fork cover (dust seal).

www.bikebandit.com has lots of new parts. Here's the diagram of the front fork:
http://houseofmotorcycles.bikebandi...&model_dept_id=703519&model_dept_name=GS550ET

They don't list the part anymore in the diagram, but thay still seem to sell them. Just use the Parts Wizard on their website:
http://www.bikebandit.com/partsbandit/popupwizard.asp?beginorder=yes
The part # is: 51571-31232.

Price $13.65

 

[Nerobro]

Well.. after counting gears on bike bandit.. I think I have some answers.

Gear ratios:

1st 2.416

2nd 1.77

3rd 1.45

4th 1.17

5th 1.095

6th 0.913

The stock sprockets are 15 and 50 tooth. leading to a 3.333 gear ratio.

I still do not know what the primary drive ratio for the bike is.

 

[crc1214]

Quick!!! Get on e-bay. Someone is parting out a 80 gs550, and everything is a buck.

turn signals, to footpegs, to wiring harness, etc.

As for tires, put Kings on it. I put Kings on mine, and they run smooth as hell. Cost about half what Dunlops do. Also, I would stay away from Cheng-Chin tires.

As for the harsh clutch, I've done some adjustment to the carb air screws (turned them in to richen my mixture a bit - I was running pretty lean), and solved my jerky clutch problem as well. It's like when I was running lean, when I would shift then let off the clutch lever, it would drag real heavy. When I richened the mixture a bit, it's MUCH smoother shifting.

Also, make sure you're chain has proper slack. A tight chain will cause jerky shifting too. I give mine a little under 2" slack when it's on the centerstand. I'm 220 (lbs.), and I carry about 20 lbs. of tools on the luggage rack, so the slack is in spec with the bike loaded (and mine is a 78 550E).

Good luck, hope you learn a lot about bikes and enjoy the fruits of your labor.

Also........ I can't stress this enough.... buy a manual. This is essential for learning about your bike, and learning to do things right.

Chad
Columbus, OH 1978 GS550E.

 

[Nerobro]

New issue...

New issue...

Well I was told I should replace the fuel line... Well.. I didn't. The bike wouldn't start today. I found out two things. Starting the bike by opening the throttle is a bad plan. That seems to reduce vaccum and prevents the tank from feeding fuel. Seccond, you can manually operate the choke by pushing on the choke bar on the left side of the carb bank.

I also looked at the air filter tonight. oh dear god that's tiny. And restrictive. I see why people goto pod filters. I think I'll be doing that ;-) But that means I need to get a carb jet kit.

I'm about to do a search.. any reccomendations on carb kits?

The choke cable is also binding severely. Any recomendations on loosening it up?

Any reccomendations on brands for pod filters? heck has anyone tried making their own airbox?

 

[Anonymous]

Check your cable for kinks, and oil it. Try a spray oil and duct tape to really force it into the housing.
As to the air cleaners, pod air cleaners and a jet kit will give you a small increase in power at the cost of a small decrease in bottom end. The stock intake and exhausts produce a very drivable bike, and significant gains take significant changes and money.
If you want a good air cleaner kit, K&N is a company with good products in my experience.

 

[Anonymous]

I missed this thread the first time around, and wanted to say congrats on snagging a very nice bike. Of course, I am a little biased. :wink:

Also, don't underestimate this forum as a parts source. I parted out my 82 GS650L on here, and *LOTS* of parts found new homes and are still in active use today. Do a search in the "parts for sale" forum. If you don't find what you need there, post in the "parts wanted" forum. You'd be amazed at what some people have kicking around the garage.

I've had good experience with www.bikebandit.com. I recently found Maine Cycle Warehouse, which seems to be where all the local 70s and 80s UJMs go when they die. LOTS of GSs and GS parts there - just yesterday I snagged a plastic trim piece that goes between the seat and tail light, which was broken and reglued on my bike before I got it.

My choke is also a bit touchy - it was like that on my 650, too. I've managed to get it to idle around an indicated 2000rpm - any less than that, and it tends to stall. I say "indicated" because I'm not convinced that my tach is reading accurately.

 

[Anonymous]

At this point, with so many irons in the fire, let me suggest that the very last thing you want right now is an aftermarket air filter assembly. Pods are probably the worst idea to date. You'd be adding about 19 variables to an already crowded mix.

There isn't a nice-running GS out there that can't be screwed up royally by adding pod filters...

Now, a K&N replacement element is a different story, and might be closer to stock than what you're using right now -- depending on its age & history. Once the original deteriorated, there's no telling what previous owners might have jammed in there.

 

[Nerobro]

Well the filter that's in there is a metal frame, with a foam filter element. it "looks" stock. it is however, butt ugly. And the airbox... well I wonder how the darn thing can runwiht something that restrictive on it.

I wasn't anticipating actually doing a pod filter refit for several months at this point. I want the bike being ridden regularly, and I want to know all the quirks before I start changing things.

Generally speaking, pod filters suck. But I'm also not sure I want to acutally try and build a decent airbox for the bike...

I do think I have my prioritys straight though. From Denniskirk I have Four new turn signals, a bottle of spray chain lube, and rear view mirrors coming.

right now, it's get the bike running, and get it running well.

I really do apreciate all your guys help

 

[Nerobro]

Well... tonight was an adventure.
I'm going to skip the near death experience in the car. (I'm very glad my
reaction to situations like that is to deal with it with a clear mind. I do the
shaking a half hour to an hour later)

Tonight I took my bike out. My roommate had difficutly starting the bike.
But I seemed to start it ok. I drove around soon I noted that the
headlight was unusally dim. And that I should probally get a higher
wattage bulb.

Well, I was wrong. It wasn't the wattage of the bulb. The battery just
wasn't charging. So.. when I reached the furthest part form home on my
ride. The bike died. I was in the middle lane of an eight lane street. I
just calmly pushed the bike off the road into a parking lot. There I called
my roomie to come help me get the bike home.

I had him bring my jumper cables and a screwdriver so we could charge
the batery.

I managed to get the bike push started. And we went to ride home. I got
about 1/3 of the way home when the bike just refused to run anymore. I
"thought" that it wasn't the charging system untill that point.

Once again, I pushed the bike off the road, and this time into a parking lot.
I went up the sidewalk, over the berm, and into the parking lot, going
down the curb. I'll be happy the day I can do "light" offroading like that
on demand ;-) but that's another story entirely.

We pulled the battery out of the bike, and charged it off the car. We put
the battery back in the bike. And the high rpm misfire went away. I had
him follow me on the way home. With the freshly charged battery, the
bike was really hualing butt.

So, it's probally time to start digging through to find the electrical bug. I
smelled something... so something might have toasted. It may be time
just to remake the wireing harness.. because what's there is ugly ;-)

So yea. My battery doesn't charge. But I get good spark.

Two other issues. My exhausts were modified by a previous owner. The
end baffles were removed, and the "next" baffles were heavily punctured.
So my exhausts are signifigantly loud. I might follow the current trend,
and go say hi to the harley dealer and get some stock sportster cans.

Finally.. my idle is at 2500 rpm. when I get some time.. I will be checking
to see if there is a leak around the carbs, and I'm going to check throttle
travel. what bugs me is that if I mess with the choke, I can get it to idle
at 1000rpm until I open the throttle the first time. Where it will then settle
to the 2500 rpm idle. (the bike is quite tame and quiet under 2300 rpm..
2500 is when it starts to be neighbor upsettingly loud)

Well, any advice would be apreciated.

 

[Nerobro]

WELL... I got the charging system fixed I think. the battery isn't fully charged yet, and my battery may be fubar at this point from being run down to hard three times.

Right now at idle it has 12.35 volts. At 5000 rpm I have 12.49 volts. that shows that it's actually charging. It starts, the headlight is bright.... I think I'm ok at this point. I'll try and run a tank or two of gas through it at 5000rpm plus and maybe we'll recover the battery.

We're researching new tires. It looks like skreemer and I are getting a set of bridgestone battlax bt45's. the h rated ones (sticker than the v rated ;-) )

SO... final question. there's a new issue with the bike. There's some popping at 5000rpm or so. Lean causes popping? Last I checked the plugs they were light brown and dry. So I don't know if there's anything really bad yet.

Well thank you for reading the latest chapter in the adventure of Nero's bikes.

 

[Anonymous]

batt

batt

Your battery should be more like 14v when charging. You might want to look into charging system diagnostics. Basically the bike should run without a battery connected if the charging system is working properly.

 

[earlfor]

Re: batt

Re: batt

DONT DO IT !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Earl

Your battery should be more like 14v when charging. You might want to look into charging system diagnostics. Basically the bike should run without a battery connected if the charging system is working properly.

 

[Nerobro]

I won't run it without the battery. no reason tostress out those underrated componnents if I don't have to. The fact that it's generating voltage is good enough to make me halfway giddy.

 

[Anonymous]

14v

14v

Yes i should have said its not wise thing to do.

 

[Nerobro]

Well, I've killed my first battery. I bought a new one today. The battery voltage was at 11.45v when I got home from my ride tonight. Twenty miles. It started at 12.45 volts. So I'm not sure what's up yet. I'm going to go through the charging system tomorow. And I have dielectric grease to redo all the connectors.

The bike still idles at 2500 rpm. Depite messing with all of possiable settings that could affect the idle. i'm pretty sure there are no vaccum leaks around the carb. But I will be running a test on that tomorow. A quick spritz of wd40 should help me check that out for sure.