Just noticed: Wires getting HOT @ stator.

[DannyMotor]

I've completely gone through my harness... cleaned or replaced nearly every connection, and ran dedicated grounds to R/R to battery (-).

While doing some finish work (re-installing wire ties and boots here and there) I realized that the NEW connections from the white/blue from the stator to the white/blue to the harness has ALREADY melted.

Not completely fried, but has gotten warm enough to melt the clear plastic boot on the weather guard TO the brand-new male connecter on the harness.

This bike has been run a total of... 30-40 minutes? at idle, in the work-shop since rebuilding...

Is this the wire that should be directly looped to the R/R to remove the 'light switch' from the equation, or is this a proper example of "R/R has crapped out".

I'm glad I noticed this now rather than baking wires while on a test-ride.

 

[keman]

I would check the RR.

 

[DannyMotor]

Off to Basscliff.... meter in-hand.

 

[DannyMotor]

Ok.. that offers no help. Lots of suggestions of 'hard grounds' and checking 3 different yellow-wires...

I only have 1 yellow wire.

 

[posplayr]

not sure what yopu mean by cleaning connections. The spades can be clean but the crimps are still corroded. Either new connectors or cut them and solder.

 

[Nessism]

Did you wire the stator directly into the R/R? If not, I suggest you do so to avoid extra resistance in the factory harness. Wouldn't hurt to solder the wires directly together either.

 

[DanTheMan]

Did you wire the stator directly into the R/R? If not, I suggest you do so to avoid extra resistance in the factory harness. Wouldn't hurt to solder the wires directly together either.

He knows of what he speaks^. Also, if you've got the original r/r, it won't have 3 yellow wires, it'll have the different colors to confuse you, as you seem to be. Get a multimeter (vohm tester) and run the stator /r/r tests as described in countless threads/posts and BassCliff's web site.
If your bike is going to be sitting in your work area running a 1/2 hour at a time, I'd suggest having a fan blowing on the engine so there is air movement and cooling, these are air cooled engines and they require air flow to remove the heat.

 

[DannyMotor]

He knows of what he speaks^. Also, if you've got the original r/r, it won't have 3 yellow wires, it'll have the different colors to confuse you, as you seem to be. Get a multimeter (vohm tester) and run the stator /r/r tests as described in countless threads/posts and BassCliff's web site.
If your bike is going to be sitting in your work area running a 1/2 hour at a time, I'd suggest having a fan blowing on the engine so there is air movement and cooling, these are air cooled engines and they require air flow to remove the heat.

Very aware of how an aircooled motor works. hahaha. no its only beeen run 10 mins a time about 4 times. no worries on that.

going to solder the blue/white wire to the r/r tonight.

 

[DannyMotor]

I am utterly confused on every aspect of how I'm supposed to test this crap...haha. what should i set the multimeter to? DC and then what?

 

[BassCliff]

Hi,

What year is your bike? Do you have a separate regulator and rectifier?

Have you looked at the stator and r/r testing and replacement guides on my little website?

Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff

 

[DannyMotor]

Hi,

What year is your bike? Do you have a separate regulator and rectifier?

Have you looked at the stator and r/r testing and replacement guides on my little website?

Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff

1978 GS750, separate Regulator and Rectifier... white/blue from stator goes directly to the white/blue on rectifier...

I have looked at the guides, but it doesn't state what to set the MultiMeter to.

I just tried a 12V battery test and got 12.48 at the battery... so that's charged, and then tried an OHM test on A/B, B/C, A/C on the stator with the MultiMeter set at 200ohm setting and got 00.8 on all of them. I also did a ground check on all of them (with the buzzer) and none of the 3 leads are grounded in the stator... which is good.

So, now that I have that info... do I start the bike and test it at 4000k (meter on AC and VOLTS) on A/B, B/C, A/C and see where that leads me? I have a feeling the Stator is 100% fine, and this is a connector/ground issue or that either the reg or rec has decided to fail on me.

Again, the wires getting the hottest are the white w/blue stripe and the yellow (with double split connector) from the stator.

Just double checked grounds, everything is 100% grounded TO the battery via piggy-back. Regulator to rectifier to solenoid, to (-) battery.

To eliminate the W/G (white w/green) that goes to the headlamp switch... it looks when the power is "on" the W/G connects to the W/R (white w/red) which goes back to the rectifier... should I be taking the W/G from the Stator, and plug that directly in the W/R from the rectifier? Will this default any functionality of the 'on/off' switch? Or could this potentially cause MORE damage to the system due to not having that drop in power to not boil over the battery?

 

[DannyMotor]

Anything????????????

 

[Steve]

I am utterly confused on every aspect of how I'm supposed to test this crap...haha. what should i set the multimeter to? DC and then what?

Where you set your meter depends HEAVILY on what you are going to test.

There are at least four different functions used to test various parts of the charging system.
1. AC volts
2. DC volts
3. Ohms for stator resistance
4. Diode test (or ohms) for rectifier checking

You tell me what you want to test, I'll tell you how to set your meter.

To eliminate the W/G (white w/green) that goes to the headlamp switch... it looks when the power is "on" the W/G connects to the W/R (white w/red) which goes back to the rectifier... should I be taking the W/G from the Stator, and plug that directly in the W/R from the rectifier? Will this default any functionality of the 'on/off' switch? Or could this potentially cause MORE damage to the system due to not having that drop in power to not boil over the battery?

Yes.
No.
Maybe. :-k

Yes, connect the w/g directly to the w/r, completely bypassing the loop to the headlight switch.
No, it will not default any functionality of the switch. There are two circuits that are switched there, the headlight switch will remain "normal".
Maybe, because your regulator will have to work overtime if you travel with your headlight off. Since you will likely have it on, that should not be a problem.

.

 

[DannyMotor]

Thank you Steve.

I want to Diode test the regulator/rectifier.

Like I said, I got .8 Ohms on all stator wires when I set the meter to "200".. there is also "20m" "2000m" "20k" and all sorts of settings, which give me all different numbers. The .8 on 200 was the only one that was consistent.

Lastly... I probably will not ride with the headlight off.. haha. I have soldered ALL 3 stator wires, directly to their respective connections... yellow from rectifier yellow from harness directly to yellow... then white/blue to white/blue and white/green to white/red.

So it's no longer a matter of connectors going forward.

 

[Nessism]

Danny,
Unless you are dirt poor or something I'd get a good used FET R/R off ebay and bring your charging system up to date. The Suzuki components were questionable when new, and now they are 35 years old.

 

[BassCliff]

Hi,

I would suggest eliminating the separate regulator and rectifier and procuring a more modern, integrated r/r unit (there's a list on my website to help your search for a new/used unit on eBay), and wire it in according to this diagram.

Eliminate the useless loop of wire to the handlebars and wire the three stator output wires directly to the r/r input wires as above. Have a look at the stator and r/r replacement and testing guides on my little website. They might help you.

Note: To further eliminate sources of corrosion and resistance, wire the ground (usually green) from the r/r directly to the battery negative. You can also wire the output of the r/r (usually red) directly to the battery positive through an inline 15 amp fuse. Also note that on a lot of modern r/r units there is a "sense" wire (usually black) that must be connected to a switched 12v source. This monitors the r/r output so that it doesn't produce too much voltage.


Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff

 

[mike_of_bbg]

Well at least he doesn't have a $400 (or simply unobtainable) igniter to blow up...

Danny,
Unless you are dirt poor or something I'd get a good used FET R/R off ebay and bring your charging system up to date. The Suzuki components were questionable when new, and now they are 35 years old.

 

[Steve]

Thank you Steve.

I want to Diode test the regulator/rectifier.

...

I have soldered ALL 3 stator wires, directly to their respective connections... yellow from rectifier yellow from harness directly to yellow... then white/blue to white/blue and white/green to white/red.

So it's no longer a matter of connectors going forward.

OK, you want to do a diode test. You will need to set your meter down for a few minutes while you UNSOLDER YOUR CONNECTIONS.

Sorry about that, but the diode test has to be done without the stator attached.

I know the logic behind soldering the connections, but there is ALWAYS a reason that you don't really want to make them permanent, so I will never recommend soldering them. Have never done it to any of mine, do not see it happening to any of them in the forseeable future.

When you get your wires unsoldered, come back, we'll talk.

.

 

[DannyMotor]

Unsoldered... next.

This may all be for not. I think I'm going to scour ebay for a shindengen. sigh...

 

[JayWB]

The stator generates AC voltage on three phases. Those are the three wires coming out of the left side of the engine, yellow on stock stators. Use the meter's AC function to measure them.

This AC voltage is fed to the rectifier/regulator. Once rectified it's no longer AC, it's DC now. The regulator portion of this device is supposed to manage the voltage (regulate it) to a manageable13.5 to 14.5 volts to charge the battery. Use your meter's DC function to measure this.

From the stator to the R/R is AC.
Output of R/R to the rest of the bike is DC.