Katana wheel swap - WTH?

[Big T]

I'm swapping my GS 1000 to 17" wheels. I've bolted up my GS 1100 aluminum swingarm and mocked up the rear wheel.

The wheel is about 12 mm off centerto the right. I have the wheel spacers set so that the sprocket bolts are under 4mm from the left side of the swing arm, which is about as close as they should get.

The only solution seems to be a narrower rear sprocket drum. I've checked the parts fiche for various models and found that all the 600/750 Kats use the same one.

The GSXRs use a much narrower one, probably too narrow

The Bandits use a similar one, can't tell if the width is different

I can't use the GS one, different size

I thought the Katana wheels was a straight swap.

What's going on?

Anyone got a Kat wheel set up that can measure the distance between the left side of the wheel hub and the right side of the sprocket (from behind)? Mine's about 44 mm.

 

[rapidray]

If you install a 6mm thick spacer behind the countershaft sprocket, you should be very close to centered. Ray.

 

[ArttuH]

If I remember correctly I used some 5-6mm spacer behind the front sprocket to offset it outwards AND shaved off another 6mm from the rear sprocket carrier. Then I was able to get get the wheel centred and chain line straight.

So this was my -83 GS1100 and wheel form GSX600F / Katana.

 

[posplayr]

If I remember correctly I used some 5-6mm spacer behind the front sprocket to offset it outwards AND shaved off another 6mm from the rear sprocket carrier. Then I was able to get get the wheel centred and chain line straight.

So this was my -83 GS1100 and wheel form GSX600F / Katana.

sounds like another straight bolt on

 

[jwhelan65]

sounds like another straight bolt on

Isn't that the truth.........

 

[Big T]

If you install a 6mm thick spacer behind the countershaft sprocket, you should be very close to centered. Ray.

????

How is that going to center my wheel in the swing arm?

 

[Guest]

Kat wheel

Kat wheel

yer gota Pm

 

[Big T]

Pics

Pics

For those of you that need pictures, here they are:

Wheel is about 5/8" offset to right

Sprocket can't get much closer to left side of swing arm

So far, sounds like I'll have to do what ArttuH did and have 5-6 mm shaved off the sprocket drum

 

[Guest]

spacer

spacer

Im sure that spacer you got on chain sprox side is the wrong one.

 

[Guest]

Are you using a GS1100 sprocket carrier? If no, give it a try they are not as wide or at least less wide than GSXR and Bandit.

 

[Big T]

Are you using a GS1100 sprocket carrier? If no, give it a try they are not as wide or at least less wide than GSXR and Bandit.

I'm not using the GS 1100 sprocket drum, isn't that a 6 prong like the GS 1000?

I am using the GSX Katana Sprocket drum, which has 5 prongs to match the wheel

 

[Big T]

Im sure that spacer you got on chain sprox side is the wrong one.

Even if it is, I've only for about 4 mm before the sprocket bolts hit the swingarm. I'll need about 4-6 mm more to get the wheel centered

 

[Guest]

I'm not using the GS 1100 sprocket drum, isn't that a 6 prong like the GS 1000?

I am using the GSX Katana Sprocket drum, which has 5 prongs to match the wheel

yep, 1100 = six prong, I'm officially out of ideas.

 

[salty_monk]

You could do what i did to get the 5.5" wheel on my 750....

1. Adjust spacer that butts up to the left side of swingarm in order to move it over.
2. Adjust the spacer/bush that goes in the sprocket drive (you may need to relieve some areas where the cush drives fit so that they don't touch). I found that I could get at least 4mm extra space this way. I just ground the spacer down & clearance to suit.

This way I didn't need to have any "meat" turned off the front face of the sprocket drive.

Got a few miles on it now & it works fine.

Also what chain are you using? a 530 setup might allow you to shorten the bolts by the amount you need & move it all over on the outside spacer. A 520 definitely would but might be shortlived on a 1000 (although 80GS1000 uses one on his spicy motor with no issues).

Dan

 

[Big T]

You could do what i did to get the 5.5" wheel on my 750....

1. Adjust spacer that butts up to the left side of swingarm in order to move it over.
2. Adjust the spacer/bush that goes in the sprocket drive (you may need to relieve some areas where the cush drives fit so that they don't touch). I found that I could get at least 4mm extra space this way. I just ground the spacer down & clearance to suit.

This way I didn't need to have any "meat" turned off the front face of the sprocket drive.

Got a few miles on it now & it works fine.

Also what chain are you using? a 530 setup might allow you to shorten the bolts by the amount you need & move it all over on the outside spacer. A 520 definitely would but might be shortlived on a 1000 (although 80GS1000 uses one on his spicy motor with no issues).

Dan

Dan,

Even if I move the hub 4 mm closer to the swingarm, I'm still going to need more to get the wheel centered. I'd rather cut the drum 6-8 mm if there's enough metal there

I haven't gotten a chain as yet, the 530 with an offset front sprocket seems to be the way to go, altho my motor is not yet built up (as far as I know).

I'm trying to get the rear wheel centered so I can determine the offset for the front sprocket.

I was hoping to hear a solution from someone else who had this issue.

 

[salty_monk]

I don't think you're understanding my point #2.

I'm talking about the bush/spacer inside the sprocket drive that goes inside the drive bearing on one side & butts up against the wheel bearing on the other side.

I was able to grind that bush down where it touches the wheel bearing in order to move the whole sprocket drive in towards the centre of the wheel. That effectively makes the wheel/drive combo narrower so you'll need extra spacer on the brake side.

If you really needed to my sprocket drive seemed to have plenty of material available to take of 5mm or so. That was my backup plan.

 

[Big T]

Dan,

I see

You mean I can grind down that spacer and get the sprocket drum deeper into the hub

That sounds easier than machining the hub

I'll pull it all apart later and see what space I can gain there

 

[posplayr]

Dan,

I see

You mean I can grind down that spacer and get the sprocket drum deeper into the hub

That sounds easier than machining the hub

I'll pull it all apart later and see what space I can gain there

I dont think machining means using a grinder . Any error is machining a spacer will far exceed the runout error of the sprocket compared to machining the sprocket mounting face. 0.005" error on the spacer will be much larger at the sprocket radius as compared to just a 0.005" erro machining the face. A little care required. :-#

 

[Big T]

I dont think machining means using a grinder . Any error is machining a spacer will far exceed the runout error of the sprocket compared to machining the sprocket mounting face. 0.005" error on the spacer will be much larger at the sprocket radius as compared to just a 0.005" erro machining the face. A little care required. :-#

Jim,

You know we're discussing the ***** shaped spacer that floats in the sprocket drum and sits against the wheel bearing, right? I don't see how improper grinding of the tip could increase run out, as the other end of the spacer is floating inside the sprocket drum bearing taking up space.

Anyway, I'm going to pull it all part later and remove the spacer and cush drives to see if any clearance can be gained between the wheel hub and sprocket drum before I start removing any material.

At any rate, I have a machinist I can take it to for his opinion once I have some options

 

[posplayr]

Jim,

You know we're discussing the ***** shaped spacer that floats in the sprocket drum and sits against the wheel bearing, right? I don't see how improper grinding of the tip could increase run out, as the other end of the spacer is floating inside the sprocket drum bearing taking up space.

Anyway, I'm going to pull it all part later and remove the spacer and cush drives to see if any clearance can be gained between the wheel hub and sprocket drum before I start removing any material.

At any rate, I have a machinist I can take it to for his opinion once I have some options

Todd,
Without a picture or the parts I might be getting corn fused, but the sprocket carrier stays alighned with the wheel by virture of the machined surfaces on the spacer. The sprocket is centered in rubber, but I'm not sure how well that will do to keep the sprocket carrier aligned if the spacer were not cut square.
Jim