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KG Gun-Kote

  • Thread starter Thread starter gsryder
  • Start date Start date
G

gsryder

Guest
Did some painting this weekend with KG Gun-Kote. This stuff is tuff as nails.

I did a test piece with a extra oil filter cover after baking and curing proceeded to beat it with a hammer and then dip it in paint stripper didnt even dull it. The aluminum just dented after hitting it. anyway here are a few pics.

DSCF2628.jpg

DSCF2636.jpg

I installed a oven in my garage
DSCF2632.jpg

DSCF2639.jpg
 
Rock on man! Good work! I've been considering Gun Kote for a GS engine but didn't get off my lazy butt and took the rattle can route instead.:o

How about spraying your sample with carb cleaner spray to see how that migh effect it? If paint stripper doesn't hurt I assume the carb cleaner spray won't either.

A question too: what temp did you use to cure the paint and how long? I was afraid of using high heat on a cylinder because the liners could/would loosen up.
 
I thought the same thing about the cylinders.
After some carefull thought and talking with the guy from Gun-Kote I got a piece of steel flat stock and flipped the cylinders on their head surface on the steel baked @325 for an hour and then let cool I didnt touch them till the next day, the sleeves didnt move at all. As far as carb cleaner I can guarantee you carb cleaner will not effect this stuff.

325 degrees for an hour once part reaches temperature
 
Does it need the heat to cure or is that all about speed? (i.e. will it eventually cure to fall strength over a longer period at ambient temps?)

I use the PJ1 fast black but it can scratch & chip. Saving grace is that it is very easy to "touch up"
 
I am pretty sure you have to bake it to cure it..........however I found out it doesnt seem to be that tough on everything.:(
When I was installing my new tires on the rims I just painted they scratch a little from me prying the tire on with e screwdriver:mad:

I dont really understand maybe the material of the rim is softer?? I am sure I baked everything the same amount of time.........I dont know how I can beat the crap out of one piece with hammer but yet the rims scratch without to much effort just installing the tires.
I am still very happy with the product in general but I little confused how it is so strong on one item and not on another:confused:
 
Steve said:
Sorry about your scratch, but why are you using a screwdriver on your tires??? :eek:

.
Click to expand...

I always have but I have never had nice rims where it mattered, usually I can get a tire on with out any scratches but the tires I am running now are a lower profile and a little harder to get on. After looking at them they wont be hard to touch up I just wont be able to bake it.
 
God damn it. My dad just bought a brand new oven from Lowes. Guess what? He gave our old oven to Lowes because he thought we won't need that anymore. I could have used it :( Let's see what he thinks about me putting parts in the new oven :twistedevil:

Anyways, the parts look great. Good job.
 
When I painted to jugs on my1100 I also oven baked it at about 250 for a few hrs. I used caliper paint because I had a bunch of cans.

I didn't notice at first, but later after it cooled I noticed one of my cylinder sleeves was sticking up about 3/32" or so.

So I put it in the oven again at the same temp & tapped it back down flush with a hard rubber mallet - no issues at all, but I like the "go forward" idea of putting that end down of a flat piece so they can't really migrate when heated.

The paint job looks great, I'm ging to remember that stuff on the next engine paint job.
 
Flaming Chainsaws said:
God damn it. My dad just bought a brand new oven from Lowes. Guess what? He gave our old oven to Lowes because he thought we won't need that anymore. I could have used it :( Let's see what he thinks about me putting parts in the new oven :twistedevil:

Anyways, the parts look great. Good job.
Click to expand...

I dont know if that is supposed to be funny but I am laughing my azz off right now:lol:
 
gsryder said:
I am pretty sure you have to bake it to cure it........however I found out it doesnt seem to be that tough on everything:(
When I was installing my new tires on the rims I just painted they scratch a little from me prying the tire on with e screwdriver:mad:
I am still very happy with the product in general but I little confused how it is so strong on one item and not on another:confused:
Click to expand...
SCREWDRIVER???huge amount of force to mount a tire with a screwdriver focussed on a single point on the circumference of the shaft against your rim even with tire irons that spread out the force it's easy to damage wheels
 
gs road racer said:
SCREWDRIVER???huge amount of force to mount a tire with a screwdriver focussed on a single point on the circumference of the shaft against your rim even with tire irons that spread out the force it's easy to damage wheels
Click to expand...

Yeah I agree I have been mounting tires on everything from dirtbikes, tractors, quads, motorcycles for years with the same two big screwdrivers I have one bent at the end at a 45 so it is easier to get between the tire and rim......needless to say I think I will be changing my evil ways:o
 
I thought I was the only one who used KG gunkote!! I just did my rear wheel today and was going to post up about KG and VOILA! Got beat to the punch. I do firearms refinishing and coating as a side job in my shop and have used KG for darn near everything.

Prep is the key. Aything aluminum or some potmetals that have been chemically cleaned can form an oxide crust so to speak. This oxide or chemical induced "crust" is the reason for the easy scratching of KG.

I used to parkerize first then KG and found that blasting and straight on to KG was tougher.

ANYthing I have blasted then cleaned with acetone has been the tuffest finish I have ever came across within reason.

I build 1911's and shoot a lot using cast bullets and use brake cleaner to cleaner the gun with afterwards. Then a coat of light oil and wipe it down and it looks brand new.

SO many colors! I did my rear wheel in Satin Black . now to tear down the front and do it to...

Ken
 
Darkstang said:
I thought I was the only one who used KG gunkote!! I just did my rear wheel today and was going to post up about KG and VOILA! Got beat to the punch. I do firearms refinishing and coating as a side job in my shop and have used KG for darn near everything.

Prep is the key. Aything aluminum or some potmetals that have been chemically cleaned can form an oxide crust so to speak. This oxide or chemical induced "crust" is the reason for the easy scratching of KG.

I used to parkerize first then KG and found that blasting and straight on to KG was tougher.

ANYthing I have blasted then cleaned with acetone has been the tuffest finish I have ever came across within reason.

I build 1911's and shoot a lot using cast bullets and use brake cleaner to cleaner the gun with afterwards. Then a coat of light oil and wipe it down and it looks brand new.

SO many colors! I did my rear wheel in Satin Black . now to tear down the front and do it to...

Ken
Click to expand...


Where do you purchase?
 
http://www.midwayusa.com/Search/#kg gunkote____-_1-2-4_8-16-32

Midway USA. I order quite a bit from them and they send out discounts reguraly on a percentage basis. 10% of $100, 15% off of $150, etc. Look on the net for promotion codes. The have fast regular shipping as well.

I order on Monday and it is here by Thursday.

This is a 1911 I did using Satin Black and Brushed Stainless KG. A buddy does the laser etching on the slide and grips for me.

superthrillria.jpg


My new tire is supposed to be her in the morning. I will mount it and post up pics of the Satin Black wheel.
 
It looks way too good to be brushed on.Do you thin it down to spray?
 
Hodado said:
It looks way too good to be brushed on.Do you thin it down to spray?
Click to expand...

Sorry, Brushed Stainless is the name of the color. You do not thin it as it is very thin allready. I use an airbrush to apply. optimal coating is .004 thousandths! very thin but very durable after baked.

using a larger airbrush I coated my rear wheel using about 4 oz.

Ken
 
Darkstang said:
Sorry, Brushed Stainless is the name of the color. You do not thin it as it is very thin allready. I use an airbrush to apply. optimal coating is .004 thousandths! very thin but very durable after baked.

using a larger airbrush I coated my rear wheel using about 4 oz.

Ken
Click to expand...

Brushed Stainless or Silver to match the stock Suzuki silver engine paint?
 
I buy direct from KG but I suppose one source is as good as another.
http://www.kgcoatings.com/

All the parts I painted with the gun coat were freshly sand blasted cleaned with acetone let dry then paint let dry then bake 325 for an hour to a hour and a half.

Not sure why the rims scratched I know the screw driver is a bad idea but I beat the hell out of the spare oil filter cover denting the aluminum and it didnt chip.:confused:
 
I also forgot to mention that I PREBAKE everything as well. Some cast parts are porous and even with acetone wash, oils can leach out when at oven temps. I had to redo a shotgun reciever once because I did not bake all the old oils out first. from then on prebake after cleaning degreasing but before blasting.

That is my method for good results.

Ken
 
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