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Kichigai GS1100ESD

  • Thread starter Thread starter kichigai
  • Start date Start date
Thanks Katman,
Here is another picture of the tripple tree. Its definately not flat on top so I thinks its froma 954. At least thats what it said on the Ebay ad.
954TrippleTree.jpg
 
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Here is a picture with the new 93-95 GSXR750 front suspension partially installed on my GS1100esd.
gsfront1-1.jpg


gsfront10.jpg



I picked up a new ignition from Ebay which I think will work but may have to grind down the ignition lock stop plate a bit to make it fit.
gsfront7.jpg


gsfront6.jpg
 
In order to clear the larger size fork tubes inside the front fairing frame, a few things had to be done:

I had to install a few washers between the fairing frame and where it mount up to the bike frame to move it out a bit to give it a little more clearance.
gsfront3-1.jpg


Next I had to use a lag bolt with a lock washer and nut to replace one of the lower tree fork mount bolts to make a little more room. If not, the fork tubes would have hit the lower part of the fairing frame when making turns.

gsfront2-1.jpg



Ok! I checked the ground clearance from the ground to the lowest part of the headers. I think I have around 3 to 4 inches! I may have to re-measure later since I took the picture with the bike on the kick stand but its not a bad start.

gsfront9.jpg
 
kichigai; Ok! I checked the ground clearance from the ground to the lowest part of the headers. I think I have around 3 to 4 inches! I may have to re-measure later since I took the picture with the bike on the kick stand but its not a bad start. [IMG said:
http://i224.photobucket.com/albums/dd48/Keiichi-pixs/GS1100%20Project/gsfront9.jpg[/IMG]
Click to expand...

Coming along nicely................

Don't forget there is at least an inch of sag in the suspention when you get on
 
Next I had to use a lag bolt with a lock washer and nut to replace one of the lower tree fork mount bolts to make a little more room. If not, the fork tubes would have hit the lower part of the fairing frame when making turns.
Click to expand...


Please don't do this! Lag bolts are made from the cheapest, nastiest steel available to bolt manufacturers. They are barely strong enough for use with wood. NEVER use one in a critical structural assembly!!

Just think for a second what will happen if that bolt breaks :shock:

See if you can find a button-head metric screw or have the bolt hole recessed for the head of a regular socket head metric screw.
 
Holy crap!! didn't notice that.............. I concur. Get that bolt out of there

grind an angle on the socket head a little or heaat up the fairing frame with a propane torch on the offending side and a pair of pliers will give you the relief you need. Don't mess with the triple.
 
Ok ! I will take the lag bolt out! Man, and I thought I found a good fix too! Bummer!! :cry: Oh well, but this is good! I would rather be safe now than being sorry later. This is exactly why I like posting up so many pixs. I get helpful feedback with do and dont so I can fix them along the way and so other can learn from my mistakes. \\:D/ Thanks fellas!
 
kichigai said:
Ok ! I will take the lag bolt out! Man, and I thought I found a good fix too! Bummer!! :cry: Oh well, but this is good! I would rather be safe now than being sorry later. This is exactly why I like posting up so many pixs. I get helpful feedback with do and dont so I can fix them along the way and so other can learn from my mistakes. \\:D/ Thanks fellas!
Click to expand...

Rule #1: Never use hardware store bolts unless you don't care if it breaks.
 
robertob said:
Please don't do this! Lag bolts are made from the cheapest, nastiest steel available to bolt manufacturers. They are barely strong enough for use with wood. NEVER use one in a critical structural assembly!!

Just think for a second what will happen if that bolt breaks :shock:

See if you can find a button-head metric screw or have the bolt hole recessed for the head of a regular socket head metric screw.
Click to expand...

I agree, use at least 8.8 grade metric bolts for anything structural.

And, wow, this is going to look AWESOME when you're done. :D

gsfront1-1.jpg
 
One thing you may want to consider is using some longer than stock shocks to raise up the rear a little bit. This will make the bike steer quicker than stock and help you fully utilize those new sticky D208 radials. It'll also give you a bit more ground clearance. ZRX1200 shocks perhaps?
 
80GS1000 said:
One thing you may want to consider is using some longer than stock shocks to raise up the rear a little bit. This will make the bike steer quicker than stock and help you fully utilize those new sticky D208 radials. It'll also give you a bit more ground clearance. ZRX1200 shocks perhaps?
Click to expand...

Thanks I will keep that in mind but I am already on my tip toe just to get my 2 feet on the ground! If I go too much higher, I may look like a short guy riding a 2 stroke dirt bike if you can picture it. It's a bummer only being 5'4" tall! :cry:
 
Sorry guys, but that was a CARRIAGE bolt, NOT a lag bolt. Either way, get the right part. Ray.
 
You be right Ray! I think it was a carrage bolt that I bought! I will repost new pictures of the lower tripple tree bolts as soon as I get them.

So, I made some more progess on my GS1100esd project so I thought I post up new pixs. Here is a picture of me on it checking out the ride! Ok so that not me but my little helper (4 year old son) who aided in the project. He deserved some credit for his help! We still have a bit more work to do to be finished but wanted to share what we got done so far. The clip on are just for observation and to help move the bike around while I work on mounting the new bar risers.

In case anyone wanted to know, the new front end fit just fine without having any clearance issues with from my stock fairing. No cutting of plastic was required. \\:D/
Check out the new matching Lockhart Phillips turn signals that I installed too. I think they look cleaner that the stock ones!

OK! So what do you all think??

gsr1.jpg


gsr-2.jpg


Here is a comparison picture to see what it use to look like.

gs1.jpg
 
Looks fantastic!

The rolling resistance from the radials is much less than the bias tires - have you noticed that when rolling the bike around? If you are into riding the twisties, you won't believe the improvement all that extra contact patch makes when you've got it leaned over. GSXR brakes are tremendous too - what kind of brake lines are you going to run?
 
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Thanks! I havent gotten to roll my bike much but think it is easier than with the stock tires. Yes I love riding the twisties! I plan to take the GS up to the canyon once it is finished. It should be interesting! I dont have a clue yet on which brake lines to get. I hear that GALFER make nice ones! I picked up a matching GSXR 750 front brake master when I bought my front end which I would like to use if I can make it work with my stock bars. I also picked up a GSXR rear master too and am trying to figure out how to mount it and make it work with my stock rear brake pedal. Have any suggestions?
 
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Galfer, Goodridge and Spiegler all make great stainless braided brake lines, can't go wrong with any of them. I've got some Spieglers on the front brakes of the GS and a Goodridge on the rear brake and they're both great quality. Spiegler makes brake lines for sportbike front ends that have the extra length you need when using standard handlebars vs. the stock clipons. They work great on my GS so it should work for you too. I used their superbike handlebar riser kit for the GSXR 1000 front end which is very well made, albeit a bit spendy.

The GSXR front brake lever and master cylinder will bolt onto your stock handlebars no problem.

What are your plans for a speedometer?

I can't say how to get a rear GSXR master cylinder to work with your stock rear brake pedal, although it probably can be done with some modification. I used the stock rear brake rearset from the 2006 GSXR 1000 and made an adapter plate to be able to bolt it onto the GS frame. This seemed like the easiest and simplest solution.

kichigai said:
Thanks! I havent gotten to roll my bike much but think it is easier than with the stock tires. Yes I love riding the twisties! I plan to take the GS up to the canyon once it is finished. It should be interesting! I dont have a clue yet on which brake lines to get. I hear that GALFER make nice ones! I picked up a matching GSXR 750 front brake master when I bought my front end which I would like to use if I can make it work with my stock bars. I also picked up a GSXR rear master too and am trying to figure out how to mount it and make it work with my stock rear brake pedal. Have any suggestions?
Click to expand...
 
I would think the stock rear master cylinder would work just fine, I am using my stock one with the GSF600 caliper on my 750. I'm working on mounting the speedo/tach from one into my fairing.
 
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