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Kill switch repair more issues with connectors help.

  • Thread starter Thread starter rockhammer
  • Start date Start date
R

rockhammer

Guest
Hello riders I have a little dilema that I did not think I would have, but then again the bike is 31 years old. So I need to install a new kills switch. I ride an 850 L 1982. I purchased an 82 kill switch on ebay that was off a 750 same year. I figured this should work. Well from what I am seeing it does not. In addition when I went to remove the tape from the connectors I found plastic that was crumbling and could no longer be used even if I had the right switch. So my question is this. Can this 750 switch be made to work on the 850? What do I do about the other bad connector. I have zero wiring experience. I did buy a book and looked at the schematics but at this point it is still all greek to me. Here are pics of the switches first the old switch then the new and then the bad male connector. Please let me know what solution I can accomplish. Thank you. View attachment 19638
 
I'd say it can work, you just have to match the pins/wires. You may need to junk the connectors and get some new ones or just hard wire them together. What I would do is go to Cliff's site and have a look at the manuals for your bike and the one the kill switch came from to see what colour wire goes where. The ones from the kill switch will be orange or orange with a white tracer I'd suspect.

Its not a difficult job, more along the lines of fiddly.

When doing this kind of work you should get a circuit test probe so you can determine which lines are hot when you turn the key. It takes a lot of guess work out of it.

Good luck and let us know when you get it sorted.

Spyug
 
Make your own plugs with spade connectors or get a plug and make one by installing the pins into both ends.
You can make it work.
 
chef1366 said:
Make your own plugs with spade connectors or get a plug and make one by installing the pins into both ends.
You can make it work.
Click to expand...


One problem is that the new controller looks different than the old one. If you look the female end has 9 slots. The new controller from the 750 has six and two wire coming off it. Can it still work?
 
I have a manual on the 82 however it has five diagrams non say 850L. They say GLZ or GLD GLT and GLX. There are other but I figure one of these is for the bike I have. Sorry for all the questions I am a super knoob.
 
rockhammer said:
One problem is that the new controller looks different than the old one. If you look the female end has 9 slots. The new controller from the 750 has six and two wire coming off it. Can it still work?
Click to expand...
They both have eight connectors. One in the old plug is blank.
Ok O/W in and out for the kill switch
The kill switch also breaks the start button.
The G/Y go to the clutch safety switch and from there the selonoid.
There is that stupid loop from the stator to the R/R that probably melted the plug in the first place. Cut that out by connecting the R/R directly to the Stator. It is redundant anyway.
The Y/W goes to the headlight switch
The R/O goes to the fuse box and the turn signal switch.
 
Last edited:
Connectors

Connectors

chef1366 said:
They both have eight connectors. One in the old plug is blank.
Click to expand...


Yes upon closer inspection I see what you mean. I guess I panicked when I saw the mess there. I should be able to fix this tomorrow once I get connectors. Thank you to all that replied. I will update with results.
 
O/W to O/W I have to pair same color one with red tube help

O/W to O/W I have to pair same color one with red tube help

Ok so I did what I was told so far. I took the 750 switch and the wiring diagram. I took both old plugs off the wife and installed new blade connectors and saulderd each connector I used shrink wrap around each connector although I have not shrunk it yet. So now here is my problem. I only have to connections left. Both are orange and white. On the bike side there is a red tape which indicates it goes to fuse box. In the diagram it shows another o/w that has red tube that goes to kill switch. The problem is I used a 750 control and it did not have a red tub on the control side. So now I have two o/w connectors and I am not sure which goes to the red tube. Is there a way to figure this out with a volt meter? Please help. Here is a pic of what I have done so far. View attachment 19644
 
So to make sure I understand you correctly, you have two O/W wires on the bike side, one with a red tube and one without. And on the switch side, you have two O/W wires, neither of which have a red tube?

Break out your wiring diagram and multimeter and follow along. We see that there are three wires going to the starter button and kill switch. But each of these has two contacts, so one side of the starter button and one side of the kill switch are wired together. This means we can use the multimeter to figure out which is which.

Put your multimeter in continuity mode (the one that beeps when you touch the leads together). Put the kill switch in the OFF position. Everything we're checking is on the switch side here. Put one lead on the Y/G wire. Put the other lead on one of the O/W wires. Now press the START button. If the meter beeps, that's the one without the red tube. If it does not beep, flip the kill switch to the RUN position. If it beeps now, that's the one with the red tube. (You may want to mark it or tag it somehow so you know which is which in the future. I'd use a small red zip tie, for example.)

Now further your knowledge by staring at the wiring diagram until you figure out why this is true, then go ahead and connect everything up. :)
 
Last edited:
eil said:
So to make sure I understand you correctly, you have two O/W wires on the bike side, one with a red tube and one without. And on the switch side, you have two O/W wires, neither of which have a red tube?

Break out your wiring diagram and multimeter and follow along. We see that there are three wires going to the starter button and kill switch. But each of these has two contacts, so one side of the starter button and one side of the kill switch are wired together. This means we can use the multimeter to figure out which is which.

Put your multimeter in continuity mode (the one that beeps when you touch the leads together). Put the kill switch in the OFF position. Put one lead on the Y/G wire on the switch side. Put the other lead on one of the O/W wires. Now press the starter button. If the meter beeps, that's the one without the red tube. If it does not beep, flip the kill switch to the RUN position. If it beeps now, that's the one with the red tube.

Now further your knowledge by staring at the wiring diagram until you figure out why this is true, then go ahead and connect everything up. :)
Click to expand...


Thank you kind person. This is exactly what I needed to learn. I will post results.

Best
 
eil said:
So to make sure I understand you correctly, you have two O/W wires on the bike side, one with a red tube and one without. And on the switch side, you have two O/W wires, neither of which have a red tube?

Break out your wiring diagram and multimeter and follow along. We see that there are three wires going to the starter button and kill switch. But each of these has two contacts, so one side of the starter button and one side of the kill switch are wired together. This means we can use the multimeter to figure out which is which.

Put your multimeter in continuity mode (the one that beeps when you touch the leads together). Put the kill switch in the OFF position. Everything we're checking is on the switch side here. Put one lead on the Y/G wire. Put the other lead on one of the O/W wires. Now press the START button. If the meter beeps, that's the one without the red tube. If it does not beep, flip the kill switch to the RUN position. If it beeps now, that's the one with the red tube. (You may want to mark it or tag it somehow so you know which is which in the future. I'd use a small red zip tie, for example.)

Now further your knowledge by staring at the wiring diagram until you figure out why this is true, then go ahead and connect everything up. :)
Click to expand...

I am new to volt meters as well. Do I put the red lead in the DC or COM side?
 
volt meter

volt meter

eil said:
So to make sure I understand you correctly, you have two O/W wires on the bike side, one with a red tube and one without. And on the switch side, you have two O/W wires, neither of which have a red tube?

Break out your wiring diagram and multimeter and follow along. We see that there are three wires going to the starter button and kill switch. But each of these has two contacts, so one side of the starter button and one side of the kill switch are wired together. This means we can use the multimeter to figure out which is which.

Put your multimeter in continuity mode (the one that beeps when you touch the leads together). Put the kill switch in the OFF position. Everything we're checking is on the switch side here. Put one lead on the Y/G wire. Put the other lead on one of the O/W wires. Now press the START button. If the meter beeps, that's the one without the red tube. If it does not beep, flip the kill switch to the RUN position. If it beeps now, that's the one with the red tube. (You may want to mark it or tag it somehow so you know which is which in the future. I'd use a small red zip tie, for example.)

Now further your knowledge by staring at the wiring diagram until you figure out why this is true, then go ahead and connect everything up. :)
Click to expand...

Ok so I figured out volt meter and settings. BTW this is a switch from a gs750. Now I put one lead the the green and one to orange and tried what you said and then switched. In neither position did I get a beeb. When I touched both oranges together and had switch to on I got a beep. What do you think?
 
Looks like I have done it but not starting now.

Looks like I have done it but not starting now.

So I got every thing connected and it appears that it is all ok. I turn the key press the start button and the starter turns the engine. Now however the engine will not turn over and before all this it turned over instantly. I did the wiring according to the diagram I guess I could have not connected some thing properly. I did solder each connection as well. Is there any way to check this with out have to undo all my connections. Does it sound like a bad connection? Sorry for all the questions.
 
Engine wont turn over

Engine wont turn over

So I took all my wiring apart to check it and it appears to be fine. As a side note this bike has only been off for about a week. Either way I check the spark plugs and I am getting a spark also. I checked the fuses and they are all good.


The only thing I did to it was swap out kill switch and it appears I did it all right but the damn thing wont turn over now and it ran perfect last week before my old switch broke.

Any ideas on what this could be?
 
You are getting spark while hitting the start button. Are you getting power to the coils/ignition with the key on and the kill switch on RUN? You may of wired it so you only power the ignition with the start button pushed.
 
chef1366 said:
You are getting spark while hitting the start button. Are you getting power to the coils/ignition with the key on and the kill switch on RUN? You may of wired it so you only power the ignition with the start button pushed.
Click to expand...


I pulled all the plugs grounded them and they all sparked. Is that a decent way to test or should I do some thing else?
 
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