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Knocking sounds from engine

  • Thread starter Thread starter haggis905
  • Start date Start date
haggis905 said:
Thanks Tom. The engine sounds good so I think it is a matter of rebuilding the clutch then working through the carb syncing, etc. I am thinking I am going to see about doing the work myself so that I have a better understanding of the workings of the clutch.

Once I get the oil drained (so much for just replacing it) I will pull the clutch cover and take some pictures.
Click to expand...

Don't even need to drain the oil, set the bike on the sidestand and pop the cover.
It will drip a little bit, but the oil level is much lower than the cover.
If you find the springs in the basket are too short and loose, there is a temporary fix of dubious value that sometimes works for a little while...
http://members.dslextreme.com/users/storagecliff/images/quick_clutch_rattle_repair_by_tkent02.pdf
 
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tkent02 said:
Don't even need to drain the oil, set the bike on the sidestand and pop the cover.
It will drip a little bit, but the oil level is much lower than the cover.
If you find the springs in the basket are too short and loose, there is a temporary fix of dubious value that sometimes works for a little while...
http://members.dslextreme.com/users/storagecliff/images/quick_clutch_rattle_repair_by_tkent02.pdf
Click to expand...

interesting tkent how many miles went on that after you did it ??
there are kits that can be bought for the 1000 basket
i'm lucky enough to have a friend who is a GS specialist he is a builder and racer of the 1000's and has a great little shop with full machining capabilities so i don't have to worry because what ever i can't do he can including a rebuild on my clutch basket this winter
for an interim fix try tkent's little trick and then find a kit and a good mechanic that can trust to do the work
i 'm glad that you now know what it is i knew i recognized that sound
it's also not the right fix but for now you can also just up the idle to about 1400 or so and it should make the noise go away at least it has worked for me on mine till i can get it fixed
my other 1000 when i had it on the road had this problem and it ran for a year and about 20,000 km before i had it fixed and it never gave me a problem
i have over the years heard many 1000's that make this noise it's a common problem with them but not a serious one i have never heard of a basket letting go on the 1000's not to say they haven't i just have never seen it on a daily rider race bike on the other had is a different story
 
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Spyderman said:
interesting tkent how many miles went on that after you did it ??
Click to expand...

I've done it to about four GS 1000s now, one got silent, the rest got somewhat quieter than they were, not quite silent.

Seems a good temp fix while you look for an Ebay basket, or while you send another clutch off to an expert. On the other hand, letting it rattle for a while is OK too, as long as it's not rattling due to a loose hub nut.

A better fix would be to replace the springs, or at least shim them tighter.

One more thing, a very good carb synch will lower the RPM where it starts to rattle, maybe lower it so low you never hear it.
 
tkent02 said:
I've done it to about four GS 1000s now, one got silent, the rest got somewhat quieter than they were, not quite silent.

Seems a good temp fix while you look for an Ebay basket, or while you send another clutch off to an expert. On the other hand, letting it rattle for a while is OK too, as long as it's not rattling due to a loose hub nut.

A better fix would be to replace the springs, or at least shim them tighter.

One more thing, a very good carb synch will lower the RPM where it starts to rattle, maybe lower it so low you never hear it.
Click to expand...

that is interesting thanks for the info my season is just about to an end here so i might not get a chance to try it but if i do i'll let you know what happens with it
i agree that replacing the springs is the proper way to go but for a fix till the end of the season it's worth a try
as for another basket i have a spare on hand so i'll give it a quick fix and then swap em out and send the other one off to be re-sprung and welded
thanks
and i agree a good carb sync does really go a long way to making it go away
 
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TKent/Spyderman,

Thanks for all the great information. I think that I have a lot of reading ahead of me. I tend to absorb as much information as I can possibly find before taking that first step. The first time I took of the top half of my 1150 I spent a month reading on what needed to be done and what to look out for.

Spyderman, is your mechanic friend interested in extra business? If my clutch needs rebuilding I would rather have someone experienced rebuild it then try to find someone locally that i cannot verify the quality of their work.
 
Update: The nut was one full turn from falling off. I am going to tear down the rest of the clutch and do a complete inspection. Thanks again Tom and Spyderman, looks like I get to learn something new, which I look forward to.
 
I just had the same thing, however my nut was only about 1 turn loose. The lock washer luckly was still bent over the edge of the nut, however the threads were rolled over enough that the nut was way loose, I figure about a turn. Grabbed my nut OEM nut and torqued it down, replaced the stock cover fasteners with allen heads.. and sounds quiet as can be, which now I hear a different sound I don't like.

I soft shallow bonk about every 5 engine rotations. I'm hoping its exahust, sounds like a handball bouncing off the bike.
 
haggis905 said:
Update: The nut was one full turn from falling off. I am going to tear down the rest of the clutch and do a complete inspection. Thanks again Tom and Spyderman, looks like I get to learn something new, which I look forward to.
Click to expand...

Be sure to buy a new lock washer, unless you still have a good side to bend over to keep the nut from loosening by rotation again.
 
The washer was barely bent up on one side so I know that's why the nut loosened. Need to go pick up a 32mm socket (more tools!!) and get the allen heads for the cover.

81gs1100 said:
Be sure to buy a new lock washer, unless you still have a good side to bend over to keep the nut from loosening by rotation again.
Click to expand...
 
tkent02 said:
How did the springs in the back of the basket look?
Click to expand...

I didn't have time to get that far. I printed out the GS1000S supplemental manual (thanks BassCliff!) and am going to check the specs on everything, hopefully tonight.
 
The large springs in the back of the basket are slightly loose, where the smaller springs do not rotate at all. The bigger question is this; how in the frack do I torque the nut? I have been reading and cannot find any information on how to torque it down. The manual gives me the foot pounds, but the freaking thing rotates whenever I put any pressure on it.

This is the first time at doing this, so I know that I am missing something simple, but it beats me what 'it' is.
 
haggis905 said:
The large springs in the back of the basket are slightly loose, where the smaller springs do not rotate at all. The bigger question is this; how in the frack do I torque the nut? I have been reading and cannot find any information on how to torque it down. The manual gives me the foot pounds, but the freakin; thing rotates whenever I put any pressure on it.

This is the first time at doing this, so I know that I am missing something simple, but it beats me what 'it' is.
Click to expand...

Put the bike in the highest gear and hold the rear brake. Unless you have a clutch holding tool.
 
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