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Late model r/r unit

  • Thread starter Thread starter BassCliff
  • Start date Start date
Nessism said:
Swapping out the fuse box seems extreme. Are you sure that's necessary?
Click to expand...

Hi Mr. Nessism,

No, Ed, I'm not sure it's necessary. I'm going to perform a visual inspection and cleaning then take more measurements. I thought about splitting the hot wire (red output) from the r/r, sending one to the harness and the other directly (through an inline fuse) to the battery. Instead I opted to combine the two output wires. We'll see what I find when I fiddle with the fuse box. That's the only thing between the r/r output and the battery. I'll check the wiring diagram to be sure. I did split the green ground wires, sending one directly to the (-)battery terminal and the other to the frame.

I found out that I also lost the high beam on my headlight bulb on the way home yesterday. In addition to stators, my bike has been in the habit of burning a bulb every 10 months or so.

In the meantime, here are a couple of pictures of the Electrosport stator I just took out. You can see some bare wires. The insulation has melted off and the wires started to short together.

bad_stator2.jpg


Here is a closeup of the affected area. I've got no way of knowing how much of the windings underneath the epoxy covering are shorted (hence my 10v per leg output).

bad_stator4-1.jpg


Sure, Steve, after I clean up my fusebox and take a few more measurements I'll post it here. I must say that I'm slightly embarrassed at the situation. I thought I had my charging system in good order. :o

Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff
 
BassCliff,
I don't think even the king of all GS tech tutorial storage, can be held responsible for "possible" mfg defects.
 
BassCliff

How long did you have that stator in your bike before you started having problems with it?
 
GQROD said:
BassCliff

How long did you have that stator in your bike before you started having problems with it?
Click to expand...

Hi Mr. GQROD,

I installed that Electrosport stator on April 26,2008. That was a little over 10,000 miles ago. I'll bet the warranty expired last week. :|

I haven't had a chance to look at my fusebox yet.


Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff
 
BassCliff said:
Hi Mr. GQROD,

I installed that Electrosport stator on April 26,2008. That was a little over 10,000 miles ago. I'll bet the warranty expired last week. :|

I haven't had a chance to look at my fusebox yet.


Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff
Click to expand...

I installed my electrosport in September 2008. With a Duanege R/R, hooked the sense wire to the brake light and it overcharged up to 17 volts. Battery acid overflowed.

Hooked up the sense wire to the battery directly and haven't had a problem since.

My fuse box is old also, i don't ride as much as others but mine is still working well.

I did replace the terminals with heavy duty copper ones and ground the r/r to the frame.

But it is curious why electrosport stators burn out so quickly.
 
GQROD said:
With a Duanege R/R, hooked the sense wire to the brake light and it overcharged up to 17 volts. Battery acid overflowed.

Hooked up the sense wire to the battery directly and haven't had a problem since.
Click to expand...
Your hook up the sense wire to the wire that goes to the brake light switch (constant voltage with key in the on position). not to the brake light.

850 Combat said:
So...

Can I hear more about mounting the R/R under the battery? What's that about?
Click to expand...
from the factory, the R/R is mounted to the bottom of the battery tray on my '80 and '82 gs850g. what year is yours?
 
rustybronco said:
Your hook up the sense wire to the wire that goes to the brake light switch (constant voltage with key in the on position). not to the brake light.
Click to expand...

Correct, thank you Rusty.

My brake light supply wire was down around 10.5 vdc which was causing the RR to over charge up to 15.5 vdc. I cleaned every connector I could find trying to get that brake light wire up closer to 12vdc. I finally went for a relay mod and now my RR is solid at 14.5 vdc.
 
After doing some more work on my charging system it appears my Westco AGM battery is toast. I went through all my wiring and was still having problems. I would charge the battery and it would show 100% charge. Then while leaving it connected I switched the charger to show voltage. As soon as the charger would cut out the voltage would start dropping and the charger would start charging again. It's a shame because the battery isn't all that old. I need to check my Paypal account and see just how old it is.

It appears my RM stator is charging just fine and the CBR1000RR R/R holds steady at about 14.45 volts.
 
GQROD said:
I installed my electrosport in September 2008. With a Duanege R/R, hooked the sense wire to the brake light and it overcharged up to 17 volts. Battery acid overflowed.

Hooked up the sense wire to the battery directly and haven't had a problem since.

My fuse box is old also, i don't ride as much as others but mine is still working well.

I did replace the terminals with heavy duty copper ones and ground the r/r to the frame.

But it is curious why electrosport stators burn out so quickly.
Click to expand...

Hi Mr. GQROD,

My theory is that there are still a few critical connections that I have yet to clean on my wiring harness. Oxidation and corrosion cause extra resistance. This leads to heat which dissipates from the wires behind (upstream) where the resistance occurs. Melted insulation, brittle wires, and short circuits are the result. Sometimes, as Mr. bonanzadave mentions, plugging your sense wire into an electrical path with too much resistance (and voltage drop) can cause the sense wire to send misinformation back to the r/r unit and cause overcharging.

Some models have the r/r unit on the bottom of the battery box, some under the side cover.

Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff
 
Won't hooking the sense wire up to the battery keep the r/r on even with the key off?
 
Billy Ricks said:
Won't hooking the sense wire up to the battery keep the r/r on even with the key off?
Click to expand...

Yes, I do believe one would need a relay in that situation so that the sense wire is connected only when the ignition is turned on. There is a drain on the battery otherwise.


Thank you for your induglence,

BassCliff
 
What's with all this sense wire talk, that CBR R/R doesn't use one.
 
My 850's are both '80s. I do have an '82 1100. Its probably like yours. I thought it was maybe some kind of a hot tip to keep them from overheating or something. Have a couple '80 1000G's and an '81 1000G as well. I'm going to install the Duaneage Honda units on them all when I get home next month. Hopefully, that will help keep me from needing stators.

rustybronco said:
from the factory, the R/R is mounted to the bottom of the battery tray on my '80 and '82 gs850g. what year is yours?
Click to expand...
 
Nessism said:
What's with all this sense wire talk, that CBR R/R doesn't use one.
Click to expand...

Hi Mr. Nessism,

That's correct Ed. My current r/r unit does not have a sense wire. But I do have a couple of duaneage's units in the garage for spares. I'm going to order up a spare stator too, just in case.

I hope I have some time to spend in the garage tonight. I'm itching to see what my fusebox looks like on the back side.

Thank you for your induglence,

BassCliff
 
Last edited:
Yes my sense wire was on the correct wire not the one for the brake light rather the tail light my error in explaining.

Yes it does drain milliamps of voltage i have a 10 amp fuse on it andi keep the tender on it if i'm not running the bike more than couple of days.

I was going to put a relay on it but i was concerned with electrical field inducing current into the R/R when the field collapses upon shut off, there is a relay plug with a diode to prevent this but i have not tried it yet.

I'd rather keep the tender on it and drain a few milliamps than risk damaging the battery, anyone have a better place to hook the sense wire to?

I think others have tied it into the oil pressure switch wire i may try that and see.

Thanks for the clarification on the problem you had with the stator BassCliff always appreciated
 
Last edited:
Cooking with electrons!

Cooking with electrons!

Hello friends,

I finally got around to cleaning up my fuse box. It didn't look as bad as I thought it might, but I did clean all of the contacts inside.

Here's my fusebox. Above it and to the right you see the relay for my coil relay mod.

fusebox_cleanup10.jpg



Remove the two screws to either side, pop off the top cover and this is what you see.
fusebox_cleanup02.jpg



Pop off the back cover and this is what you see:
fusebox_cleanup03.jpg



From here you can start dissassembly, The contacts just snap out.
fusebox_cleanup07.jpg



Scrub them with your favorite wire brush and spray them with your favorite contact cleaner.


A few more pictures in the next post...
 
Last edited:
Cooking with electrons

Cooking with electrons

Hello again,

The main positive input has a little different contact arrangement. Take out the screw and the contacts pop out for cleaning.
fusebox_cleanup04.jpg


fusebox_cleanup06.jpg


After you get everything clean, just reassemble and reinstall. Don't forget to scrub that ground strap on the right side in the picture below.
fusebox_cleanup09.jpg



I checked my voltage loss between the r/r output and the (+)battery terminal. Last weekend when Mr. posplayer checked it while we were riding around Julian he found about .6v-.8v loss. After this cleanup I measured .3v loss. Jim says that ideally you want a loss of only .25v or less. It's not perfect, but it's better.

Next is the ignition switch.

Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff
 
Last edited:
Great pics, do you think applying electrical contact grease would help the conductivity to get to that .25v and prevent future corrosion or would it make a mess?
 
Cliff

Cliff

Cliff,
Here is what I did on my old style fusebox. Picture was taken when not on Macro setting, so somewhat out of focus, but I bent up the crimps and used some acid (Navel jelly will work) and got the crimp chemically clean. This allowed me to flow solder into the joints to hopefully impede any further encroachment of corrosion into the crimp. Top it off with a nice lathering of Dielectric grease. This is my 81GS750EX as the GS1100ED has a different style fuse box without crimps.

If you measured 0.3V at 4000 RPM that will be fine. However, if those crimps are the source of the resistance (my experience that is generally the issue), then the corrosion will keep growing and you could continue to degrade in short order.

Jim


picture.php
 
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