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Leaking fuel from air filter help

  • Thread starter Thread starter a.jensen5
  • Start date Start date
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a.jensen5

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Hi came across this site and seemed like right place to go for my problem. I own an 81 650 gl. Bike has pod filters and a dyno jet st 3 kit. What's happening is shortly after starting the bike I noticed a small drip comming from the far left pod. Sure enough its gas,after driving it stops comes back after ideling for couple min. Or if I shut it off after a few min it will start to drip and will slow drip from that pod for several hours then stop till I start the bike again. I pulled carb apart cleaned them very good made sure floats are floating and have no holes. Put it back together same crap after idle couple min drip started again. Any ideas where to start or what's causing it to do this?
 
Usually the float level is to high or the needle and seat is dirty.
(Be prepared for many posts telling you to thoroughly clean the carbs in carb dip and replace all the o-rings.)
Could also be a bad petcock or you have it on PRI.
 
It's likely that float needle seat is leaking, cuz as soon as bike starts, the vacuum petcock allows gas to flow, putting pressure on all the float needle seats. The leak is small, so it might not be noticeable when carbs start demanding more gas.

follow this link for info overload
http://members.dslextreme.com/users/bikecliff
 
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I checked to make sure wasn't on prime and its not. Would a bad petcock cause a problem with only one carb? I ask because when I preped for my first ride this year petcock was stuck solid and I had no flow had to use a pliars to break it lose and get it over to prime for first start. I pulled it off cleaned it now it turns smooth. I'll take a look at that link as well if its the float seat what do I do about it?
 
Often times when the petcock fails it allows fuel to back flow down the vacuum line and into the carbs. If #2 carb is overflowing, that could be the issue.
 
If it's Carb #1, it probably ain't the petcock unless you use the kickstand. Look at needle/seat for scoring-or might be something stuck, or o-ring might be torn.
But your petcock is sending you a warning- I just replaced my original with an exact duplicate from a guy in Florida for $45. It won't link here so send PM if you are interested.
 
No its just the #1 overflowing other 3 are fine also thought I should mention all o rings were replaced less then 2 yrs when dyno jet kit was install and although they were never soaked carbs have been cleaned very thoroughly since this problem developed as well back when the kit wad installed. I had a friend try and tell me its from the dyno kit but I ran all last summer flawless didn't have a problem when I parked it last fall.
 
Now that you mention it tom I do use the kickstand the double stand had been removed when I bought it.
 
No its just the #1 overflowing other 3 are fine also thought I should mention all o rings were replaced less then 2 yrs when dyno jet kit was install and although they were never soaked carbs have been cleaned very thoroughly since this problem developed as well back when the kit wad installed. I had a friend try and tell me its from the dyno kit but I ran all last summer flawless didn't have a problem when I parked it last fall.
Does this include the o-ring on each fuel needle valve seat? I ended up destroying all the needle valve seats trying to pull them to replace those o-rings.

Your problem is unlikely to be caused by the petcock, although the petcock may make it worse if it is not shutting off when the engine is not running.

Possible causes:
1) Dirty fuel needle valve - clean both with Q-tip and carb cleaner. Consider installing fuel filter if particles found.

2) Worn needle or seat - replace them

3) Dry/rotted o-ring on the needle valve seat - replace o-rings

4) Loose or missing hold-down clamp on the needle valve seat - tighten or replace

5) Bad float - weigh them and see if any are heavier than the others, make sure they were immersed in gas before weighing, replace as necessary.

6) Float level set too high - unlikely, since you said this is a new problem on a bike that ran correctly before.
 
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Hi,

A few notes I have gathered...

[FONT=Trebuchet MS, sans-serif]Overflowing Carbs[/FONT]

And just in case you haven't seen it, here is your "mega-welcome". ;)

Let me dump a TON of information on you and share some GS lovin'. :D

I just stopped by to welcome you to the forum in my own, special way.
big_hi.gif


If there's anything you'd like to know about the Suzuki GS model bikes, and most others actually, you've come to the right place. There's a lot of knowledge and experience here in the community. Come on in and let me say "HOoooowwwDY!"....
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Here is your very own magical, mystical, mythical, mind-expanding "mega-welcome". Please take notice of the "Top 10 Common Issues", "Top 15 Tips For GS Happiness", the Carb Cleanup Series, and the Stator Papers. All of these tasks must be addressed in order to have a safe, reliable machine. This is what NOT to do: Top 10 Newbie Mistakes. Now let me roll out the welcome mat for you...

carpet.jpg


Please click here for your mega-welcome, chock full of tips, suggestions, links to vendors, and other information. Then feel free to visit my little BikeCliff website where I've been collecting the wisdom of this generous community. Don't forget, we like pictures! Not you, your bike! :D

Thanks for joining us. Keep us informed.


Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff
 
One thing I'll add is that it's common for the corrosion inside an old petcock to break loose and get down to the needle seats, holding the needles open and leading to gas all over the place. This will repeat ad nauseum until you replace the petcock.

If you've revived an older bike and moved the petcock handle for the first time in years, that's the problem.

Petcocks have a very effective mesh filter to keep crud from the tank out of the system, but crudniks inside the petcock have a straight shot at the carbs.
 
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