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Learning things about R/Rs

  • Thread starter Thread starter spyug
  • Start date Start date
S

spyug

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Well as I've been messing about all week on my charging issues I've been doing a lot of reading. Last night I was going over some stuff on a couple of the Honda sites as I'm thinking about swapping out my R/R which seems to be a tad wonky, to one of the Hondas. Imagine my surprise when lots of the Honda boys are moaning about their trashy R/Rs and looking to replace them mostly with Yammie crap:eek: Now I'm cornfuzzed once agin.

Quite a few of the threads talk about the newer Shindengen units as fitted to the newer FJRs and R1s. There is actually a lot of talk about units like these and others with higher ratings (i.e 50amp or better) and how the newer units fitted with MOSFET chips put out more consistant voltage over the rev range.

Another interesting piece of information was that older R/Rs using SCR/shunts naturally produce less voltage as the revs increase. This is the exact symptom that I am currently seeing. So that explains that.

Anyway, I was wondering if anyone had retrofitted any of the newer R/R and how well it works.

Checking e-bay there quite a few compnies selling brand new R/rs but they are hellish expensive so I doubt I'll be getting one of those anytime soon but if I stumble over one I'll snag it.

Interesting stuff this electronics:p

Cheers all,
Spyug
 
spyug said:
lots of the Honda boys are moaning about their trashy R/Rs
Click to expand...

You should hear the Bombardier crowd. My friend has an Outlander 800 quad that has never charged since he got it new. Always has a battery tender on it. Dealer wont do squat to fix it.
 
spyug said:
I'm thinking about swapping out my R/R which seems to be a tad wonky, to one of the Hondas. Imagine my surprise when lots of the Honda boys are moaning about their trashy R/Rs and looking to replace them mostly with Yammie crap:eek: Now I'm cornfuzzed once agin.
Click to expand...
the Virago 920 that I am working on has a shindengen R/R on it the same as the Honda's.

spyug said:
Quite a few of the threads talk about the newer Shindengen units as fitted to the newer FJRs and R1s. There is actually a lot of talk about units like these and others with higher ratings (i.e 50amp or better) and how the newer units fitted with MOSFET chips put out more consistant voltage over the rev range.
Click to expand...
You probably don't need to use the newer FET style R/R's. The Honda R/R's will be more than adequate for most peoples needs, although wanting the very best is a whole different story!

spyug said:
Anyway, I was wondering if anyone had retrofitted any of the newer R/R and how well it works.
Click to expand...
I have installed one, but I have yet to start it after the FET R/R was installed. (nor the shindengen for that matter, long story...)


spyug said:
Interesting stuff this electronics:p
Click to expand...
Yes it is...

Cheers all,
Spyug[/QUOTE]
 
Thanks for posting the list guys. I had indeed read that thread a while back and had been searching for it again the last few days but couldn't turn it up. I wanted to pull off the numbers of those units that are suitable so I can root through the big box of R/Rs at my wreckers. I think I'd like to score one of those 40/45 or 50A units

I also now remember reading about the FET controlled R/Rs but at the time it didn't register as I wasn't experiencing issues at that time.

I'm still thinking of changing out the fuse block. The one I picked up would do in a pinch but its not a good fit for the space available. I notice Bike Bandit show it on their fiche so if I can't find something locally I might order one.

One of these days I'll get this working the way its supposed to.

Cheers all,
Spyug
 
You wanna splurge on a really NICE fuse block? :-k

Check out Fuzeblock. Kinda pricey at $80, but it has 6 circuits that you can determine whether they are live all the time or only live with the key. :D

.
 
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"Our stuff blows, so your stuff doesnt..." Gottalove the tag line..
 
There is an even better one from Germany that includes various functions like parking light flashers, brake light and head lamp modulators all in the same unit. It was about $250 so beyond most budgets Don't have a link at the moment.

Pos
 
Find that link, if you can. For all those features, it sounds like it might be worth the price.

A decent headlight modulator is $85 or more.
A decent brake light modulator is $70-110.
The Fuzeblock is $70.
Add assorted relays, wiring and what not (especially the what not) and it adds up quickly. :eek:

.
 
Hey Steve, It is only money. Just think how many bells and whistles you will have and such a clean wiring harness. ;)
 
GS1100GK said:
Spyug,

I just did. Here is the link to the installation.

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?p=1042309&posted=1#post1042309

The voltage results are still in the "Part 1" (see first post of the thread for this link).

I am especially pleased with the idle voltage. :)

Hope this helps.

- JC
Click to expand...


I also bought one of those FH R/R's, going to install it on my most recent project.:D It was suggested to seal up the electrical connections with silicone after the wires are attached. It seems that there is special type of silicone for such a job; more common general purpose silicone adhesive has acid in it and is not appropriate. You might want to check into this to find out what's best.
 
I have made a couple of these bikes charge correctly by cleaning contacts, and adding grounds only. The next one I do, I'm going to hard wire the stator to the R/R with soldered connections. The '82 1100G I worked on, I reused the plug, as you did. I measured, and found no appreciable voltage drop in the plug, nor any evidence of heat. Not even in the stupid ststor lead to the handlebars (the red/white green/white one) None the less, I am convinced that the plugs are all about ease of assembly at the factory, and not about providing a better functioning product.

On the Suzukis I have worked on, nearly all have had signs of overheating of the stator bullet connnectors. On the 1100G, one of the bikes we drove accross country in June, it charged perfectly when we left Tillamook. The second day, it overcharged its battery. There was apparently too much voltage drop in the switched lead the sixth wire was connected to. I rerouted it directly to the battery. the fourth day, it stopped charging. We found no voltage drop in anything we could test, and the stator bullets seemed tight. It turned out they were not tight. They were tight to push together, but had some "wiggle" when fully engaged. This was addressed, and another battery box / frame ground added, and charging was back to perfect. It has remained so since. The other 2 GS's had no charging issues on the trip after initial fettling before leaving. All the GS's I have looked at show signs of overheating of stator lead bullet connectors. (not original bullets).

I won't say I don't trust the bullet connectors; I do trust them. Just not in a good way.
 
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