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LED gear indicator misbehaving after ELECTREX installation

jknappsax

Forum Mentor
Past Site Supporter
I installed an ELECTREX RR10 on my 1978 GS750C a couple weeks ago as a preventative measure, since the famous Suzuki regulator/rectifier/stator problem is so prevalent, even though the stock setup ( separate regulator and rectifier) was working fine. After the installation, I tested the RR , seeing between 13.8vdc at idle to about 14.5 vdc at engine rev at the battery terminals, as I should see. The bike runs and charges fine, but when my turn signals are on, the 7-segment LED gear indicator flashes extra segments on and off as the signal flashes. I haven't had a chance to check voltage at the battery when the turn signals are on since I noticed it. I don't think it is heat-related, as it does it when first started or after a long ride, but it has been hot and humid here lately.
There wasn't room to mount the larger RR10 where the old rectifier was mounted, so I mounted it under the battery box, where the old regulator was mounted; it bolted up to the existing threaded holes! Any thoughts on either matter? TIA.
 
Re: LED gear indicator misbehaving after ELECTREX installati

Re: LED gear indicator misbehaving after ELECTREX installati

I have the same bike you do (well almost--79 model) and I also replaced the separate reg/rec with an RR10 as a preventative measure. I mounted the RR10 under the right side cover. Everything is working flawlessly and I have no indicator problems or other electrical problems at all. I suspect that your trouble is due to a wiring harness fault and a connection being made that should not be. Probably due to age of the wiring, chaffing, etc.
It appears to me somehow your turn signal circuits have bridged themselves into LED gear indicator wires.

Earl

jknappsax said:
I installed an ELECTREX RR10 on my 1978 GS750C a couple weeks ago as a preventative measure, since the famous Suzuki regulator/rectifier/stator problem is so prevalent, even though the stock setup ( separate regulator and rectifier) was working fine. After the installation, I tested the RR , seeing between 13.8vdc at idle to about 14.5 vdc at engine rev at the battery terminals, as I should see. The bike runs and charges fine, but when my turn signals are on, the 7-segment LED gear indicator flashes extra segments on and off as the signal flashes. I haven't had a chance to check voltage at the battery when the turn signals are on since I noticed it. I don't think it is heat-related, as it does it when first started or after a long ride, but it has been hot and humid here lately.
There wasn't room to mount the larger RR10 where the old rectifier was mounted, so I mounted it under the battery box, where the old regulator was mounted; it bolted up to the existing threaded holes! Any thoughts on either matter? TIA.
 
Nothing has changed except the RR10. I think more likely the load of the turn signals is causing the voltage to dip just enough that the TTL driver for the 7-segment LED is acting flaky. If there was a short, it would have done it with the stock reg/rect setup. The harness is in very good shape; the bike was garaged while it sat for almost 10 years until I rescued it. (It still only has 11k mi.) The only wires I touched for the installation were the ones connecting the stator through the regulator and rectifier to the harness and battery.
 
Since you replaced it as a preventive measure, you have the stock parts available. Why not replace them, and see if the problems still occurs? I think it's a wiring problem.
 
Since you replaced it as a preventive measure, you have the stock parts available. Why not replace them, and see if the problems still occurs? I think it's a wiring problem.
 
Well, since I removed all bullet connectors, and soldered and heatshrinked all connections, that's not avery viable option. I had doublechecked with Ritzo at Electrex before I did the swap, I'm pretty sure I got the conversion right. I'm a broadcast engineer, so repairs and mods are not new territory to me. I'll ohm out the wiring, but I really doubt it's a wiring problem.
 
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