• Required reading for all forum users!!!

    Welcome!
    Register to access the full functionality of the GSResources forum. Until you register and activate your account you will not have full forum access, nor will you be able to post or reply to messages.

    A note to new registrants...
    All new forum registrations must be activated via email before you have full access to the forum.

    A Special Note about Email accounts!
    DO NOT SIGN UP USING hotmail, outlook, gmx, sbcglobal, att, bellsouth or email.com. They delete our forum signup emails.

    A note to old forum members...
    I receive numerous requests from people who can no longer log in because their accounts were deleted. As mentioned in the forum FAQ, user accounts are deleted if you haven't logged in for the past 6 months. If you can't log in, then create a new forum account. If you don't get an error message, then check your email account for an activation message. If you get a message stating that the email address is already in use, then your account still exists so follow the instructions in the forum FAQ for resetting your password.

    Have you forgotten your password or have a new email address? Then read the forum FAQ for details on how to reset it.

    Any email requests for "can't log in anymore" problems or "lost my password" problems will be deleted. Read the forum FAQ and follow the instructions there - that's what we have one for...

  • Returning Visitors

    If you are a returning visitor who never received your confirmation email, then odds are your email provider is blockinig emails from our server. The only thing that can be done to get around this is you will have to try creating another forum account using an email address from another domain.

    If you are a returning visitor to the forum and can't log in using your old forum name and password but used to be able to then chances are your account is deleted. Purges of the databases are done regularly. You will have to create a new forum account and you should be all set.

LED signals won't flash with LED flasher

  • Thread starter Thread starter Guest
  • Start date Start date
Sorry for seeming a bit confused, but are you saying I can't run led flashers without the tscu at all? With both the oem and the led aftermarket 3 pin flasher, my rear led signals will light up but not flash. Doing anything, like grounding the B/Bl or bypassing it completely using a 2 pin system, won't even make them light up. I really don't want to buy a new tscu and wire it all up if it's unnecessary.
 
No you don't need a TSCU unless you want auto cancel.

i modified the last post to be more clear.
 
Last edited:
Not gonna lie, this is the most frustrating thing I've dealt with in some time.
 
Posplayer, if the TSCU is bad, then cut that connector off and use it. Don't destroy a good TSCU, but I thought the OP said his never worked.
 
81GS850 said:
Posplayer, if the TSCU is bad, then cut that connector off and use it. Don't destroy a good TSCU, but I thought the OP said his never worked.
Click to expand...

OK I think I understand now. You are using the TSCU side of the TSCU harness connector to run a ground into the B/BL on the harness side of the same connector.

I was thinking you were cutting the connector off the harness. My bad :(
 
popzeus said:
Not gonna lie, this is the most frustrating thing I've dealt with in some time.
Click to expand...

If all else fails, take a take a flasher, and LED with socket and connect it straight to the battery till it works. There are no too many combinations.
 
Flasher and LED work just fine when connected straight to the battery. Could it possibly be somewhere between the switch and the lights that it's losing the flash signal?
 
Yes, I grounded it to the battery and it worked until right when I was gonna connect it to the terminal. Now I've got nothing again.
 
popzeus said:
Yes, I grounded it to the battery and it worked until right when I was gonna connect it to the terminal. Now I've got nothing again.
Click to expand...

could you be more clear?
Are you using a new LED compatibile flasher?
 
I think the ground question was implied not for the test but as reference to final wiring.
Not sure if your answer was to the test or final.
Not always will the flasher posts ground correctly to the mounts points on different bikes.
This can be rectified with one of the circular wire connectors that will fit the flasher metal inner post.
The type your battery bolts go into only big enough to fit snug around flasher inner metal post.
Find a good/tested ground and hook wire now connected to inner post to the known/tested good ground and try again.
You can test if that is the problem just by keeping hot in the harness with flasher hooked up as if you are actually using and turn flashers on with a wire touching both the inner metal threaded post and your tested/good ground.

I am thinking if they stay lit and just not flashing this is not the problem though.
One more thing you may try is to disconnect your running lights and try for just the flashers.
If they work now you may try a different combination for wiring your running lights in.

I hope this helps, I am thinking it may be a easy test to try.
 
posplayr said:
OK I think I understand now. You are using the TSCU side of the TSCU harness connector to run a ground into the B/BL on the harness side of the same connector.

I was thinking you were cutting the connector off the harness. My bad :(
Click to expand...

Hey no problem!
 
Yes, I was first using a 3 pin led flasher and got no flash, then another led flasher with just two wires that I connected properly and still no flash. When I connected the second flasher to the battery instead of the o/g wire, it worked perfectly. I know the problem isn't the fuse, so it must be somewhere in between affecting the amount of power getting to the flasher. My bike is 1980 gs1100 that's quite a Frankenstein electrically and cosmetically, but the mechanics are great.
 
Steve said:
Before you ground out the "L" pin, check to see what the others are. :-k

I have seen pins labelled B, L and G or E. Think of them as Battery, Load and Ground or Earth.
Battery should connect to your power source.
Load should be routed to the turn signal switch
G (E) should be your ground.
Click to expand...

A million internet points to Steve for the pin legend explanation I needed. I grounded the "E" terminal and everything worked as it should. Magic blinky lights at the flip of a switch!

Now I need to know where to get a replacement for that funky spade connector and the proper multi-stranded wire for making up a ground wire and all the other wiring work that I will do along the way. I would re-use the old connector but I can't get the smaller of the two crimps open again. The material is surprisingly hard for what looks like brass and has so far resisted all my efforts. It doesn't help that the crimp is very small and completely flattened. I suppose I could cut the existing wire off and solder the ground wire onto the connector instead but I am trying to not butcher the OEM harness any more than is necessary.

Any help on the wiring front?


Mark
 
No butchering of the wiring harness is necessary... Also don't need to get a new plug for the turn signal relay... They make relays with the terminals switched in the right direction, sounds like you go the wrong relay. Mines an tridon ep34 relay with the L in the center and the E on the right. This plug in just fine on my 850. Does your TSCU work? If not, cut off THAT plug and leave some wiring left. Run the blue/black wire to the ground a voila. No butchering of the bikes wiring harness.

Edit: you got the backwards relay. You need the one that goes the other way, if you don't wanna cut up the stock harness.
 
This thread is way too long, here is a picture of the plug for the 3 pronged OEM flasher.

You can stick a newer LED compatibile flasher right into the same plug.

O/G is the switched ignition circuit (+12V) from the fuse box; leave that alone

Light Blue is the load (i.e. the signal lamps operated through the directional switch) ; leave that alone.

The only complications is the Black/Blue (B/Bl) wire which is the control signal from the TCSU. The newer OEM flashers will only flash when Bl/B is grounded.

There are several ways of doing that either cutting the wire and grounding it in the harness or using an dead TCSU with it's connector to loop back the B/W into the B/Bl.

As per this description there was no reason to have cut that entire connector off. If you have grounded teh B/Bl then obvioulsy you ahve defeated teh Auto Cancel function coming from the TSCU.

kQrjjMul.jpg



This is one solution to retaining the TSCU with a new LED compatiable flasher relay.

http://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...d-TSCU-MOD-for-LED-Conversions&highlight=TSCU
 
Last edited:
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top