left cover plate for racing

[wera racer]

Anyone know where I can get an APE-type left-side cover plate for my 78 GS1000 vintage racer? APE makes them for the bigger motor drag racers, but not the 1000. I've removed the rotor/stator and am running a total loss ignition. I'm trying to fabricate my own, but am having trouble coming up with a suitable extension for the crank that sticks out and I don't want to cut the crank off. Much obliged.
Rick

 

[BadBillyB]

Anyone know where I can get an APE-type left-side cover plate for my 78 GS1000 vintage racer? APE makes them for the bigger motor drag racers, but not the 1000. I've removed the rotor/stator and am running a total loss ignition. I'm trying to fabricate my own, but am having trouble coming up with a suitable extension for the crank that sticks out and I don't want to cut the crank off. Much obliged.
Rick

Hey Rick, are you talking about a starter plate ??? Like this

If so, try Murdoch Racing Products in Safety Harbor, Florida. They made mine way back when......Billy

 

[wera racer]

Hey Rick, are you talking about a starter plate ??? Like this

If so, try Murdoch Racing Products in Safety Harbor, Florida. They made mine way back when......Billy

Yes, like that. Thanks!

 

[GregT]

If you're looking for one suitable for roadracing - ie with a reasonable amount of crash protection for the crank end, I don't know of anything available off the shelf.
I cut the cover and make a flat plate from 5 mm alloy sheet, holesaw around 2 in dia in the center and either machine up a dome for the crank end or fab one from thick wall tube and a plate plug for the end.
TIG weld the whole lot together and it will protect the crank end in most circumstances.
I'm waiting for an owner to give me back a cover he's shortened at the moment. When it's done I'll post a couple of pics. This one is being cut to leave the starter clutch and gear train in place.It's easy enough to split the alternator rotor off the center boss and the main body of the cover comes back to only 35mm out from the case.

 

[wera racer]

Thanks, guys! Billy, Murdoch Racing came through big. The had one in stock for my 1000, ready to go and at an excellent price (much cheaper than the APE-style ones). They were very helpful and offered lots of (free) advice. Many thanks for the referral. Rick

http://www.murdochracing.com/index.htm

1.800.237.race

 

[BadBillyB]

Hey thats great Rick, Gotta love the race shops that support the old 2 valve 1000's.....They also do excellent transmission work. I had them do a "race cut" on my transmission before I did the 1-2-3 auto transmission mod to it. The workmanship was excellent....Now all you need is to do is mod the stock cover for ground clearance, as it will now be a 1/4" further out......Billy

 

[wera racer]

Hey thats great Rick, Gotta love the race shops that support the old 2 valve 1000's.....They also do excellent transmission work. I had them do a "race cut" on my transmission before I did the 1-2-3 auto transmission mod to it. The workmanship was excellent....Now all you need is to do is mod the stock cover for ground clearance, as it will now be a 1/4" further out......Billy

Thanks, Billy. They actually have a set of two-valve race-cut gears for sale that someone didn't pay for. I'm pondering that. I'm not sure what you mean by modifying the stock cover, as the plate I'm getting from them replaces it. Now to find an external starter to use on it...I wonder if an impact wrench provides enough torque?
Rick

 

[anthonygs1000]

you need to run two twelve volt batteries to make a 24 volt system you can take a 12 volt mopar v-8 starter and modify it by taking the nose section off and welding a appropriate size socket on to the end you will need to make a bracket on the other end of the starter to put a push button switch. DO NOT USE A IMPACT !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! IT WILL DAMAGE YOUR CRANK

 

[wera racer]

you need to run two twelve volt batteries to make a 24 volt system you can take a 12 volt mopar v-8 starter and modify it by taking the nose section off and welding a appropriate size socket on to the end you will need to make a bracket on the other end of the starter to put a push button switch. DO NOT USE A IMPACT !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! IT WILL DAMAGE YOUR CRANK

Thanks, Anthony. But why a 24 volt system for a 12V starter?

 

[trippivot]

voltage is like pressure. 12 volts turn it too slow 24 spins it over with authority.

chrysler reduction ratio starters are popular, toyota forklift starters are small and do the trick

51 ways to skin a cat.

D&G make all kinds of goodies for gs1000 2V call dave skaggs in florida 727 544 3663 or DGchassis.net

 

[Sandy]

I don't know if this will work with the plate installed but for simplicity I've heard of racers running total loss but leaving just the starter in place and then all you need to do is hookup 12V to start it thus saving the battery for the race. If the motor is really built you can spin the motor and then turn on the ignition. Maybe a hair brained idea for what you want, maybe not.

 

[sharpy]

Seems to me a lot of effort just to plate up the LHS crank. Expensive item to have it slide down the road and will it actually protect the crank end with that nut touching it? Plate it with a thick alloy tube welded on for crank protection and just bump start the bike. Any good bike should start in the first few yards. Even used that start method for about a year on my roadie, just got used to it.

 

[wera racer]

I don't know if this will work with the plate installed but for simplicity I've heard of racers running total loss but leaving just the starter in place and then all you need to do is hookup 12V to start it thus saving the battery for the race. If the motor is really built you can spin the motor and then turn on the ignition. Maybe a hair brained idea for what you want, maybe not.

Thanks, Sandy. Yes, I've heard that, too, but it won't work with the rotor removed. There's nothing to hold the starter gear to the crank.

 

[wera racer]

Seems to me a lot of effort just to plate up the LHS crank. Expensive item to have it slide down the road and will it actually protect the crank end with that nut touching it? Plate it with a thick alloy tube welded on for crank protection and just bump start the bike. Any good bike should start in the first few yards. Even used that start method for about a year on my roadie, just got used to it.

Once the plate arrives from Murdoch, I'll ponder the aluminum tube addition. I'll have lots of ground clearance on the left now for road racing. I think I will just bump start it for simplicity's sake. Which gear do you use, second? Thanks

 

[BadBillyB]

On my drag bike it goes....gasket, starter plate, gasket, then stock cover....The cover has a hole for a remote starter. I use a chrysler gear reduction type starter on 24 volt....For road racing, I would think you could use the stock cover and shorten it as much as possible. This would give you protection for the crankshaft.....The remote starter will come in handy when working/tuning the bike......If you get the same starter plate that I got from MRE (25 years ago) it was made from 1/4 inch flat aluminum plate and the stock cover fits over it good.......Billy

 

[trippivot]

2nd gear yep.

if you are going to just bump start it. why not take out everything under the alt cover and just put the cover back on? empty in there and oil tight. just put a plug where the starter was.

suncoast made a very thin plate and seal so the stock cover can be reinstalled and not have the cover shoved out nearly a half inch.


I have made a device with 2 rollers that 2 bikes can fit side by side with the rear tires on it so a running bike's rear wheel can spin the rear wheel of the race bike for a stationary bump start. I've used my moped to create the starting motion.

 

[GregT]

For road racing there are 3 popular alternatives:
Bump start it
Roller start it
Split the rotor off the center boss leaving the starter clutch in place and power the starter from an external battery.

As I've posted but apparently went unnoticed, it's dead easy to split the rotor off the center boss - the rivets are soft,drill them from the rotor side approx 3/8in drill until the heads come off then drive out with a punch.

I'm picking up the shortened cover today so I'll be in a position to post pics shortly.

 

[wera racer]

Thanks, guys, some good ideas. The drag racing cover plate is on its way and I'm going to try it. I'd like to see your pics, Greg.
Rick

 

[Gilmoses]

Are you road racing or drag racing? I'm a lil confused.
I personally did like Trippivot, removed the stator, and the magnet. . . left the rest of the starter clutch, welded the stationary parts back together, and bolted it back on the crank. I still use my starter and clutch cover, this is on my street drag bike, with 10.5:1 compression, . . . then I just charge my battery between rounds. A high compression motor will take its toll on a stock starter in most cases, it will be best to use a 24v starter cart, in that case. . . .

 

[wera racer]

Are you road racing or drag racing? I'm a lil confused.
I personally did like Trippivot, removed the stator, and the magnet. . . left the rest of the starter clutch, welded the stationary parts back together, and bolted it back on the crank. I still use my starter and clutch cover, this is on my street drag bike, with 10.5:1 compression, . . . then I just charge my battery between rounds. A high compression motor will take its toll on a stock starter in most cases, it will be best to use a 24v starter cart, in that case. . . .

Vintage road racing, so the more clearance the better. Thanks!