Lithium Ion Battery Dying During Drive.

[Crissy]

I have a 1978 Suzuki GS550, dyna ignition and coils, I upgraded the stator, I upgraded the R/R when I was first building the bike, I bought a shorai lithium ion battery due to space and saving weight. So now that the weather is nice I'm out here trying to enjoy it and I was driving around the complex and it suddenly just shut off on me completely died that's not the fist time that has happened, anyone know how can I go about fixing this problem? How do I diagnose?

 

[LAB3]

A bit more information is needed. You mentioned it wasn't the first time, what did you do to get it to restart? Second question: You also mentioned upgrading the regulator, was is made for use with a lithium battery?

 

[cowboyup3371]

What kind of R/R are you using - Series (like the SH775) or a Shunt (like the Honda and OEM ones)? It's possible that the battery isn't liking the way it's being recharged. In my opinion, you would be better off with an AGM-style battery much like the Motobatt or similar

 

[Steve]

I really hate to pile on here, but the history of a Lithium battery on a GS is not all that good.

I will have to ask similar questions, because they really are that important.

What "upgraded" stator did you install?

What "upgraded" R/R did you install?

For diagnosis:
1. What is your battery voltage when fully-charged?
2. Battery voltage when the key is ON, but bike is not running?
3. Battery voltage while starter button is being pressed to start engine?
4. Battery voltage right after engine starts?
5. Battery voltage at idle, after engine warms up enough to turn "choke" off?
6. Battery voltage at 5000 RPM?

.

 

[Crissy]

Hi everyone, first and foremost you guys are correct I should have included all the specific details that matter to this topic
The R/R I bought on amazon which is made by Caltric part number : R88-4.
The Stator is made by ElectroSport 12pole stator part number: GS015.
I know you guys are the pros here, guide me and teach me I'm all ears to great knowledge.

 

[Steve]

Neither one of those part numbers showed any search results. A 12-pole stator is correct, unless a previous owner has changed the rotor to a newer 18-pole. The R/R will be an older shunt-style. Better than nothing, but not nearly as good as the Shindengen SH775 that is highly recommended here.

Your next step would be to follow the steps in post #4 and show us the results. We can then give better guesses on what might be wrong.

.

 

[LAB3]

When I entered Caltric R88-4 it showed what appears to be an aftermarket replacement for the stock Suzuki regulator. That would "work" for a typical lead-acid battery (for awhile anyway) but not a lithium battery. My guess is the regulator and battery aren't playing well together. Steve mentioned the SH775 which is a great choice but it isn't made to work with a lithium battery either.

 

[Steve]

My guess is the regulator and battery aren't playing well together. Steve mentioned the SH775 which is a great choice but it isn't made to work with a lithium battery either.

You are probably correct, but I don't know of ANY readily-available R/R that will work with a lithium battery, so I figured we should at least suggest the best one for a lead-acid battery (sealed or otherwise).

.

 

[LAB3]

You are probably correct, but I don't know of ANY readily-available R/R that will work with a lithium battery, so I figured we should at least suggest the best one for a lead-acid battery (sealed or otherwise).

.

I've seen ONE that is (can't recall where) and it was over $200!

 

[Steve]

There are a couple on eBay right now that are in the $60-65 range.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Genuine-SH...246730?hash=item287bb6744a:g:QosAAOSwFalctPaf

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Polaris-Ra...AOSwHNtceatc:sc:FedExHomeDelivery!45458!US!-1

There are also a couple of NEW ones for $109:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-SH775-...216809&hash=item3d7e8663f5:g:1KMAAOSwtilb5jpn

https://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-SH775-...216809&hash=item3d8093f3b7:g:FmwAAOSwm~1cQ2u2

These all have pictures of the SH775 on the back fin, which is a better guarantee that they might be genuine. :encouragement:

.

 

[LAB3]

Might have been a misunderstanding there, the Lithium compatible rectifier was $200. Took a look around earlier today and there are some on the market in the $130 range. Found this video and anyone who's looking to go with a lithium battery might want to check it out.

https://youtu.be/NFt2NMRxPQo

 

[Nessism]

I've read that lithium batteries prefer charging voltages of no more than 14 volts, but I don't know this for a fact. In the case of the OP's bike I suspect the system isn't charging at all. Most likely the factory wiring is botched. That's why it's always best to rewire the charging system from scratch.

 

[LAB3]

I've read that lithium batteries prefer charging voltages of no more than 14 volts, but I don't know this for a fact. In the case of the OP's bike I suspect the system isn't charging at all. Most likely the factory wiring is botched. That's why it's always best to rewire the charging system from scratch.

Yeah, that's a good bet. The OP really needs to give us some more info, we're just kind of talking to ourselves here! Either way, a battery or regulator replacement is in order.

 

[Steve]

Might have been a misunderstanding there, the Lithium compatible rectifier was $200.

You are correct, there was a misunderstanding. I was pursuing the wrong R/R.

In the case of the OP's bike I suspect the system isn't charging at all.

The OP really needs to give us some more info, we're just kind of talking to ourselves here!

I asked for that five days ago, back in post #4. Still haven't seen anything.

I'll check back, but there's no sense guessing. :-\\\

.

 

[Grimly]

For those still reading, Rick's are doing a proper lithium battery reg/rec. No mention or it being series or shunt.
https://ricksmotorsportelectrics.com/Universal-Perm.-Magnet-Lith-Ion-Rec-Reg-14_515

That one in the video above. I wonder if it's a series job.