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Locked forks - battery drained.. 1150EF and...

  • Thread starter Thread starter qcktvr
  • Start date Start date
Q

qcktvr

Guest
Need advice for new problem(s) please..
I am still trying to sort out issues with this new to me 84 1150EF.
Charging is not 100%, but it keeps the battery up and has run pretty well in one 150 mile day.
I used it recently for a 70 mile ride, got off and locked the steering for the first time and ran off to a meeting for 2 hrs, came out and it was dead, no gear indicator even...
(I have since realised that when I do this the ignition still seems to stay on, and the dash lights etc., hence the dead batt, so something is wrong there)
Then
Got a boost from a non running car and it turned over real slowly but eventually nursed it to start, but I still had a problem as the fuel level was not good... headed for a gas stn about 15miles away, but before then had to go for reserve, which I couldn't turn onto in time before it died on me...
This time it would not turn over even when connected to a fast idling truck??? Nor would it start with a run and push...
It rode home on the back of a flat bed/tow truck..
Charged battery, first attempt starter spun, but weakly and did not seem to engage, second attempt and since, it turns over just fine.???
It was difficult to get it to fire, tried PRI then RES, barely running and stalled.. only #2 exh pipe getting hot.
When it started again and kept running it got better, but now after a minute or so #1 3 & 4 go upto 500+F near the head and #2 is only at 200F
I'm guessing that this could be fuel related, but will check the plug for spark tomorrow.
It would be nice not to have to pull all of the carbs off at this time as I am getting ready to go through and upgrade the electrics
Compufire RR
What is the best stator? The side cover is leaking oil so I'm thinking a good time to replace it.
Relays to the 100watt H4 headlamp
and I think the clutch is slipping...
Long post but I'm hoping that someone will have time to think about my problem(s)
Thanks in advance
Trevor
in Durham (town) ON
Canada
 
Try doing the maintenance on your bike before you really screw it up. Never jump start a bike from a running car, you will surely fry your electrical system. Its obvious you have electrical and fuel/carb related issues. Why not go through the stator papers and see whats wrong with your charging system? When was the last time the valves were adjusted and the carbs cleaned?
 
Also when the steering is locked with the key to the right, the tail light stays on. Lock it with the key to the left.
 
That is called PARK mode. It is designed into the switch system. Don't use it.
 
I know the temptation to just ride (since the season is fast ending) is overwhelming but you should really do the basic maintenance if you want to avoid being stranded.

It sounds like you definitely need to do a carb cleaning and rebuild but at this late date I'd say save that for winter and for the present add healthy dollops of Seafoam to help clean things out. Concentrate on the electrics for now.

You need to make sure you are charging and proper voltage is getting to where its needed most i.e. the coils. Start by measuring the resting voltage on a fully charged battery. Then with your multimeter test for voltage at the fuse block and at the various connectors down to the headlight area. It is also very important to clean up contacts at the ignition switch and at the kill switch/starter button as a lot of voltage loss occurs there. You also want to check for voltage loss at the coil (orange white lead) with the key in the on position, of course.

It is very common to see voltage loss from the battery of 1 or even 2 volts. At the coil this may translate into much weaker spark which translates to hard starting and poor running.

So clean and or replace dirty connectors. This is especially true of those from the stator and from the R/R. If your bike is not charging as per spec. then you have to consider this as a potential culprit. With stock R/Rs there is a lso a deficiency in the grounds. This can cause very erratic charging or a failure to charge at all. It is always a good idea to add additional grounds from the body of the unit to frame and also from the ground lead from the unit directly to the battery negative terminal.

As Suzuki R/Rs are not the best it is often suggested to update to the newer Mosfet type or some other after market, but many of us have had success switching to Shindengen units (from Honda or Kawasaki) which come with a sense wire. The sense wire (attached to a pwered line) gives the unit feed back as to voltage so the R/r can limit how much it produces.

The electrical systems on these bikes will strand you more times than the carbs so it behooves you to clean it up. At least do all you can to make sure your chargiong system is working. As you know, there is nothing worse than being miles from home with a bike that won't fire up.

Welcome by the way and please post some pics of your ride.

Cheers,
Spyug
 
I just got another GS, a 1000G. Post purchase work includes a Honda RR, rebuilding the brakes, checking the valve clearances, checking the carb sync, replacing fluids, and inspecting all the electrical connections from front to back. I also replaced the sealed beam headlight with an H4 model, put proper turn signals on, adjusted the bike to fit me, and a few other things.

All this before I start taking the bike anywhere. I won't go more than 20 minutes from home for a few rides until I feel there are no gotchas. And this bike was maintained by a motorcycle mechanic who did really good work. The carbs are whistle clean and it runs strong.

But a 30 year old bike needs extra attention when it changes hands.
 
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