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Looking for a GS gear head.

  • Thread starter Thread starter Stockis4bitches
  • Start date Start date
S

Stockis4bitches

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Hello all I have a 1981 Gs1100e. I am doing a complete rebuild and don't have much knowledge outside of a V8. Just looking for a second opinion on how this engine looks. I pulled the valve cover and the side covers and couldn't believe a 25+ year old bike looked so good.
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Why are you tearing into it? I'd check/adjust the valves and be done with it if it runs good. The plugs look new... Get a Clymers manual. The top end looks alright.
 
Do NOT get a Clymers. They suck. Get an OEM Suzuki manual. Search out Basscliff's website and download one for free.

That engine looks fine from the top side. Make sure you adjust the valve clearances before returning it to service.
 
Nessism said:
Do NOT get a Clymers. They suck. Get an OEM Suzuki manual. Search out Basscliff's website and download one for free.
Click to expand...

Really! I used them as guides for my FZ1 and Bandit 1200 and they were quite useful and both of these machines gave tens of thousands of miles of reliable service.


Guess I'll go with factory manuals from here on out
 
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I agree on getting a factory service download OR spending the money on an Ebay find. Haynes and Clymer are both known to be frought with wrong info AND missing info all together.
 
Try and find the Clymer picture info on the back GS850G brake slave cylinder,,oh whoops they forgot to print it!
 
As others have stated, you need to go through 30 years of service that hasn't been done. These engines are pretty tough and take a lot of abuse, but one thing they can't tolerate is a lack or routine maintenance.

Some questions first:

Tell us a little about the history of the bike. Has it sat for a long time?

Have you done any of the require maintenance? Adjusted valves? Cleaned carbs? Sycned carbs? Checked electrical system? Verified compression? Checked airbox and intake boots for leaks?

Why are you thinking of doing a "complete rebuild"?

Don't let the years fool you. These engines are known to go MANY years/miles without a major tear down. In stock trim the bottom ends are bullet proof and the rest are of very high quality components. Usually it's a lack of maintenance or failure to check oil level that will cause major issues.
 
The missing and incorrect info in the aftermarket manuals isnt religated to just Suzukis....its known for many bikes AND automobiles. I stay away from them and will search Ebay till I get a real manufacturers manual.
 
Lesson Learned Chuck! I'll be sure not to recommend them from here on out...

I second JT.

These bikes are pretty much indestructible. I'd recommend checking to ensure all the gaskets are still there as well. I dropped the oil pan out of my GR and found gobs of red silicone in the oil pan and NO GASKET!. You have to go into it thinking the PO was a moron for 9 times out of 10 they are.

Mileage? History? It looks like it didn't get over heated too bad. I overheated my GS750 a couple times and when I cracked the engine open after doing the 7-11 swap all the internal parts were a golden color from the burned oil... Looks nice in that engine.

The 1100E's had an oil cooler right? If it doesn't highly recommend installing one or upgrading the one you have.
 
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I have already got a Suzuki service manual, FIRST THING I did when I purchased.

The odometer says 22k but I am not even sure it works. The title says exempt.

Bike history: I bought it from a guy out in Vegas. At the time it was not running. PO could not find why it wouldn't run and only owned it for about six moNts. I ended up finding a loose bolt on the magneto (might be called something else, it's a dizzy to me) that powers the igniters. As for the real history of this bike it remains a mystery. The previous owner didn't seem to be the brightest crayon in the box. The spark plugs are new.

I should have been more clear. The engine isn't a complete rebuild. The entire bike is the complete rebuild. I just wanted to take a few covers off to make sure the engine was in good internal condition. Only thing I have found is far is a leaking seal or two. I figure with a valve just adjustment and some seal replacement I'll be in good shape. I haven't checked compression although carb rebuild is in work. I have redone all the electrical and also The intake has been converted to pods and they are in good working condition.
 
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I also have the full build thread going in the rebuild/projects forum. Not sure how to link it.
 
You are going to have to extensively rejet the carbs to run with pods. A Dynojet kit is highly recommended. Don't use those crappy Chinese pods either. Get some real K&N's or some pods from APE. Pods let more dirt through to your engine so know that up front as well.
 
Jake, feel free to call me at 714--356-784five. I build 1100 & 1105, 16 valve engines all year long. I can answer just about any question you will have about these engines & tell you what you need to do to make them live & make great power.
Ray.
 
Nessism said:
You are going to have to extensively rejet the carbs to run with pods. A Dynojet kit is highly recommended. Don't use those crappy Chinese pods either. Get some real K&N's or some pods from APE. Pods let more dirt through to your engine so know that up front as well.
Click to expand...

Yea I figured that I will have to rejet the carbs. The PO had a dyno jet kit but once I got the "magnito" fixed it wouldnt start without starting fluid so I was safe to assume that the dyno jet kit used was used incorrectly. So I will be getting a new dyne jet kit to go with the carb rebuild. Its the sync of the carbs that worries me. The pods, well I don't know the brand they came with the bike. I will be looking into getting some decent ones once the motor goes back in the frame.
 
rapidray said:
Jake, feel free to call me at 714--356-784five. I build 1100 & 1105, 16 valve engines all year long. I can answer just about any question you will have about these engines & tell you what you need to do to make them live & make great power.
Ray.
Click to expand...

Thanks Ray, as soon as I get the engine up on my work bench if I have any questions I will drop you a line. You wouldn't happen to have a guide on valve adjustment? Nothing I have ever done before...and these other fellas are telling me that the valves will need to be adjusted.
 
Stockis4bitches said:
Yea I figured that I will have to rejet the carbs. The PO had a dyno jet kit but once I got the "magnito" fixed it wouldnt start without starting fluid so I was safe to assume that the dyno jet kit used was used incorrectly. So I will be getting a new dyne jet kit to go with the carb rebuild. Its the sync of the carbs that worries me. The pods, well I don't know the brand they came with the bike. I will be looking into getting some decent ones once the motor goes back in the frame.
Click to expand...

Not starting without ether doesn't sound like a kit problem. Sounds more like the carbs are still clogged or you're trying to start it with the throttle open. Easy to verify if the Dyno Jet kit is correct. Check all the jets and post back what the numbers are. I wouldn't jump into buying a new kit until you've verified that the carbs are clean (no blocked passages) and the kit you have installed is the correct one and installed correctly.
 
Jake, where in Cali are you? I am 3 blocks from Disneyland. Easiest for me is to just call.
Ray.
 
rapidray said:
Jake, where in Cali are you? I am 3 blocks from Disneyland. Easiest for me is to just call.
Ray.
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Im up in the palmdale area. about an hour and some change from you. I am going to be ordering some gaskets, once they get here I will get in touch with you.
 
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