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Looking for Carb Assistance - Please

  • Thread starter Thread starter KeithK
  • Start date Start date
K

KeithK

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I've just purchased an immaculate 82 GS1100GLZ. Honestly the bike looks almost showroom. I've changed the oil and filter, cleaned both master cylinders and flushed all three calipers, installed a new K&N air filter and cleaned and rebuilt the carbs (had 2 floats sticking). I apologize in advance for any redundancy in the questions. The fuel air mixture screws when I disassembled did not have springs. 1st question - Rebuild kit came with springs for fuel/air, should I use them? 2nd question - When starting at full choke it starts instantly but I cannot roll the throttle at all without bike dying, to even attempt to ride the bike it has to warm up for at least 5-7 minutes, even then not perfect. I know I need to sync the carbs. So should I sync the carbs first or try and get the fuel air issue first, I think I've turned out the screws about 2.5 turns without springs installed. I love these forums!
 
Hello and welcome to the forum. Yes you need the springs. Most mixture screws have a rubber washer, metal washer and spring. Without all these parts you won't be able to set your idle mixture. Sounds like your pilot/choke circuit is probably clogged. If the carbs won't idle properly, its pretty much a waste of time to sync the carbs. Before you work on the carbs, check your valve clearances to make sure all are within spec. Adjust them if necessary.
 
Yes, install the springs on the pilot screws.

Regarding the running problem, is the airbox on the bike and is that K&N in the airbox or individual filters? The bike won't run properly with the stock jetting if you modified the airbox system, you will need to rejet. If the bike is stock, it sounds like one of the pilot jets are plugged. Did you remove them and/or replace them?

Good luck and welcome to the GSR!
 
Thanks! So, I have the needle, & small o-ring. No Problem, Does the metal washer rest against the head of the screw, and the spring rest on the washer? I suppose investing in a Clymer is probably a good idea :-)?
 
Take the screw, slip on the spring, then the metal washer, then the o-ring. The o-ring is what creates the seal.
 
I pulled and disassembled the carb rack (not each carb) soaked for 6 hours, replaced all jets with what was in the bike. Everything on the bike is 100% stock, no individual air filters (don't like 'em, just personal preference).
 
Will try first thing tomorrow, thanks again!!! Sould I start at 2.5 turns out from light seat?
 
I pulled and disassembled the carb rack (not each carb)
Click to expand...

Each carb has to be separated from the rack, completely stripped and soaked. The o-rings between the carbs need to be replaced. All the jets need to be removed and soaked. I like to soak everything overnight. Rinse everything in hot water and then blow everything out with air. Use a spray can of carb cleaner to flush out all the jets, inspect to make sure all the little holes are clear, blow out with air and then reassemble.
 
IMHO the Suzuki service manual from BikeCliff's website is far superior to Clymer's or any other manual I've come across. And Clymer's are hard to come by, and expensive!
 
Thanks again. I've got an '84 KZ550 LTD F2 and an 80 KZ550 A1 in process of frame off restoration, daily rider is V-star Classic silverado.
 
I've got an '84 KZ550 LTD F2 and an 80 KZ550 A1 in process of frame off restoration
Click to expand...

I am working on a 1982 KZ750N1 Spectre, where are you located?
 
Did you check to make sure the pilot jets are open? Hold them up to a light to make sure the orifice is open, or poke a wire though the jet?
 
Nessism said:
Did you check to make sure the pilot jets are open? Hold them up to a light to make sure the orifice is open, or poke a wire though the jet?
Click to expand...

Make sure that's a COPPER WIRE. Anything harder will likely scratch the brass orifice.

I agree with above. Valves or Pilots
 
spchips said:
Make sure that's a COPPER WIRE. Anything harder will likely scratch the brass orifice.

I agree with above. Valves or Pilots
Click to expand...

It's not valves. Hanging valves won't make the bike behave like described.
 
I can't recall where I found a really good explanation of how to blow out the pilot passages, but I'll try to recreate here:

The passage runs from the very front of the carb (where the air flows inward) at one of two small openings facing the air filter. (There's a metering orifice there that really shouldn't be messed with. I think it's a press-fit, but there's no purpose in removing it anyway.)

The passageway runs from there to the opening (pickup) for the pilot, and then to a small pinhole-sized opening in the back of the carb -- so when you apply compressed air anywhere, there are two escape paths for it. This means it's ineffective unless you block one opening and spray into another, forcing the compressed air to travel through the third and only remaining orifice.

If all you do is apply compressed air to the front opening, or at the pilot jet threads, it's just like plunging a double sink -- you're just moving air back and forth through the same unclogged passage.

First, blow some compressed air into the pilot jet bore. Feel which opening at the front of the carb the air rushes out from. Hold a finger over that opening and spray again. You're NOW forcing (or trying to force) compressed air through the critical passageway.
 
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