H
huntb
Guest
While rotating my engine when I was replacing my valve shims I noticed that the chain would droop once or twice per rotation. See the pictures below. Is this normal? Or does my chain need to be tightened?
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Steve
GS Whisperer
Make sure your tensioner is installed correctly.
Far too many times, a well-meaning wrench monkey will read part of the instructions, but not all of them.
Remove the tensioner.
Retract the plunger, lock it in place with the setscrew
Install the tensioner
Release the setscrew
Turn the setscrew in until it stops (Here is where they stop reading)
Turn the setscrew back out 1/4 to 1/2 turn, lock it in place with the lock nut.
For some reason, they release the plunger, then lock it in place so it can't move and do its job.
.
Far too many times, a well-meaning wrench monkey will read part of the instructions, but not all of them.
Remove the tensioner.
Retract the plunger, lock it in place with the setscrew
Install the tensioner
Release the setscrew
Turn the setscrew in until it stops (Here is where they stop reading)
Turn the setscrew back out 1/4 to 1/2 turn, lock it in place with the lock nut.
For some reason, they release the plunger, then lock it in place so it can't move and do its job.
.
H
huntb
Guest
Wow... that was exactly what it was. The PO did say he "adjusted it" when I bought it. Thanks again Steve
W
Wheelbreak
Guest
Hmmmmm.
I followed the clymer instructions and it said to remove the tensioner secure the set screw and leave it secured. Then when reinstalling it to then turn the set screw out about a quarter turn, but not more than a half and then secure the lock nut. That's what I did but a week and a half later have started hearing some clicking that I fear is the cam chain. Is what I did wrong? what is the difference between releasing the plunger and then just turning out 1/4 or slightly more turns?
I followed the clymer instructions and it said to remove the tensioner secure the set screw and leave it secured. Then when reinstalling it to then turn the set screw out about a quarter turn, but not more than a half and then secure the lock nut. That's what I did but a week and a half later have started hearing some clicking that I fear is the cam chain. Is what I did wrong? what is the difference between releasing the plunger and then just turning out 1/4 or slightly more turns?
Releasing the plunger lets it adjust the chain tension and keep it adjusted.
Not releasing it doesn't.
W
Wheelbreak
Guest
I just went back and read the instructions in clymer, and since I was just changing the gasket somehow I skipped the part where you push the plunger in. I hope this can't cause any problems that would cause permanent damage to my engine!
I bought a Z650 new in 1980. It had an automatic tensioner fitted for that model year. When I went back for the 'free' first service he removed the small setscrew, replaced it with a 2" long screw and locknut and locked it down hard on the adjuster muttering something about these auto tensioners were not up to the job. He also set it with the motor running.
Some of them weren't very good. The GS design was one of the few that when set properly and just left alone, actually worked.
If in doubt start from scratch. By refitting the tensioner with the plunger fully forward you may have overtightened the chain.
Never saw me again except for the rear wheel bearing that collapsed after 6000 miles replaced under warranty but most likely due to my over zealous cleaning regime. I put nearly 30k on that machine in less than three years, must have had the cams out half a dozen times to only once need a shim. After a serious party I woke up the next day to find the engine on the roof. Some friends.
I wonder if the practice of locking auto tensioners is partly a hangover from that era or am I giving people too much credit
Yes I am, I'll get my coat.