• Required reading for all forum users!!!

    Welcome!
    Register to access the full functionality of the GSResources forum. Until you register and activate your account you will not have full forum access, nor will you be able to post or reply to messages.

    A note to new registrants...
    All new forum registrations must be activated via email before you have full access to the forum.

    A Special Note about Email accounts!
    DO NOT SIGN UP USING hotmail, outlook, gmx, sbcglobal, att, bellsouth or email.com. They delete our forum signup emails.

    A note to old forum members...
    I receive numerous requests from people who can no longer log in because their accounts were deleted. As mentioned in the forum FAQ, user accounts are deleted if you haven't logged in for the past 6 months. If you can't log in, then create a new forum account. If you don't get an error message, then check your email account for an activation message. If you get a message stating that the email address is already in use, then your account still exists so follow the instructions in the forum FAQ for resetting your password.

    Have you forgotten your password or have a new email address? Then read the forum FAQ for details on how to reset it.

    Any email requests for "can't log in anymore" problems or "lost my password" problems will be deleted. Read the forum FAQ and follow the instructions there - that's what we have one for...

  • Returning Visitors

    If you are a returning visitor who never received your confirmation email, then odds are your email provider is blockinig emails from our server. The only thing that can be done to get around this is you will have to try creating another forum account using an email address from another domain.

    If you are a returning visitor to the forum and can't log in using your old forum name and password but used to be able to then chances are your account is deleted. Purges of the databases are done regularly. You will have to create a new forum account and you should be all set.

Lower/ strip down or replace gauge cluster?

  • Thread starter Thread starter Jmcb
  • Start date Start date
J

Jmcb

Guest
I have a 78 gs550 that I'm getting up and running. It came with clubman bars which look good. I have a solo seat enroute as well. Cut the back fender down and kind of go for a mild cafe look. I was thinking of popping the forks out of the tree and flipping the head light bracket upside down to lower the head light a bit. Something different then the cafe ears everyone else uses.. But instrument cluster?? What to do there. They are huge and chunky. And make the front end look weird.. But they are useful.. Has anyone ever lowered the cluster to a flatter angle? Or could I strip all the chunky plastic casing off? Or would I loss all water proofing? Or for all the headaches would I just be better off replacing them with some low profile gauges??
 
Your attachment did not work. :-k

I have seen some smaller gauges used that actually were quite nice. There were lights in them that showed Neutral, Oil, High Beam and Turn Signal, keeping quite a lot of their stock function. They were not quite "plug and play", as there has to be a bit of adaptation to the wire harness to get those lights to work properly. I don't remember what brand they were, but they might have come from Dime City Cycles. At least that would be a decent place to start.

.
 
I can say this. I literally, accidentally, lowered the angle on my 83 1100e cluster after a deer incident.
With the lower and more forward then stock superbike bars, the new flatter angle of the cluster actually worked well in regards to viewing it.
 
Not sure how the front end of a GS550 compares to my GS1000G but I've also pondered the same question about losing a bit of height from the cluster.

It's a stock bike and I don't want to change that (much) and certainly anything I do to get it how I want it would be reversible and easily put it back to OEM should that be required.

I have however got some wider flatter bars, not clubman and not quite drag bars but almost. I've also been looking at the headlight bracket and figured flipping it over would drop the headlight say 10-20mm, not a lot but maybe just enough to make a subtle difference.

As for the clocks, and this might be different on yours, I've looked and can see the clocks are mounted on rubber bungs above the bracket on the headstock. If I take them off and mount them below the bracket that could drop them 20-30mm (about an Inch). Not sure if that would interfere with the headlight. It might be that flipping the bracket isn't enough and I have to get aftermarket headlight clamp but I am thinking its certainly worth trying, and won't cost me anything.

When I sort out the wiring for the switchgear (changing to modern switch rather than the non-functioning self cancel) then I'll swap over the bars and play around with the headlight and cluster configuration.

Still got an engine to finish building so not quite ready yet, but have ordered a bulk lot of bullet connectors.
 
I lowered mine quite a bit by taking apart the gauges and bracket assembly, and then putting the bracket in a vise and reshaping the bracket. Worked great, and i still have the functionality of the stock gauges, but with a little bit better profile, slicker look. I have clip-on bars so it was a necessity in order to get the clearance for the brake reservoir and clutch cable.

20180301_174109.jpg
 
You haven't had any issues with them lossing water resistance since removing the casing?
 
You haven't had any issues with them lossing water resistance since removing the casing?

Is this directed at me? I put everything back together (including the rubber dampeners) after I re-angled the bracket. So no issues. I was initially worried about glare, but it's been great, no problems.
 
I’ve literally just got in from the garage. I’ve removed the sump so while waiting for the oil to drain decided to tinker with the front end.

as I described above, I’ve just removed the clocks and refitted them under the mounting bracket instead of on top. It’s lowrred the clocks more than I expected. The headlight is still in the same place so the gap is tight, but still fits. With the headlight bracket flipped as suggested I think that would push the headlight down a bit as well but didn’t go that far.
 
Back
Top