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lowering blocks

  • Thread starter Thread starter spyderrocs
  • Start date Start date
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spyderrocs

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anyone have any pictures of lowering blocks? I would like to make a set for my 80' 750e because i cant find any already made for that bike.
 
pics

pics

anyone have any pictures of lowering blocks? I would like to make a set for my 80' 750e because i cant find any already made for that bike.
Hey spyderrocs, here's a couple of pics of my blocks on my GS750T.:-\"
P1010167.jpg

P1010171.jpg
 
is there anything inside to keep it from moving, or does it just look sorta like a H if you look at the top? I just dont know if theres stops built in or not.
 
is there anything inside to keep it from moving, or does it just look sorta like a H if you look at the top? I just dont know if theres stops built in or not.
EASY RON...:lol: Spyderrocs, there are no stops on the blocks, the shape is more like a Y shape. The wide end attaches to the swingarm, and the narrow end slides into the bottom of your shocks. I've never had a issue with the blocks swinging up or forward the pretty much stay where they are,and they have been on my bike for twenty-one tears now.
 
EASY RON...:lol: Spyderrocs, there are no stops on the blocks, the shape is more like a Y shape. The wide end attaches to the swingarm, and the narrow end slides into the bottom of your shocks. I've never had a issue with the blocks swinging up or forward the pretty much stay where they are,and they have been on my bike for twenty-one tears now.

But if you made a set that was like an "H" instead of a "Y" you could use a set of "eye-to-eye" shocks instead of the harder to find "eye-to-clevis" shocks.....

Wouldn't ya think??? Hmmmm.

I'm gonna have to noodle a bit on that idea.

Bob T.
 
Are these lowering blocks still available anywhere? I've looked around and didn't find anything for the early bikes.
thanks,
Todd.
 
i cant find them either, so i was just going to plasma cut some out of 1" steel. they look easy enough. btw tracy thats a real slick bike. i love it.
 
thanks

thanks

i cant find them either, so i was just going to plasma cut some out of 1" steel. they look easy enough. btw tracy thats a real slick bike. i love it.
Thanks spyderrocs,Here's a couple more pics.8-)
P1010172.jpg

P1010173.jpg
 
Hey, I could use some of these, too. Maybe the'll make a come back!
Southern New Hampshire, eh?
 
anyone have any pictures of lowering blocks? I would like to make a set for my 80' 750e because i cant find any already made for that bike.
I have a set for a 750 but they wont fit my 79 cause the caliper is in the way.Do you have shoes or caliper brake on the back?I could send you a pic if you want to see them.I bought them for 25 bucks from someone on here that said they would fit but they dont.
 
tRACY,IF I SEE YOUR BIKE ONE MORE DAMN TIME IM GOING TO COME THERE AND STEAL IT FROM YOU.I WANT YOUR BIKE!!

Yes, Sweet bike Tracy and I really like the lowered look as well. Where do you keep that bike? Ron, do you know where he keeps it???
I will have to look into lowering my 79 750.
 
Tracy, What keeps the forward part of the "block" from moving up and down? Unless I'm missing something it looks as though it is free to pivot as you ride, but the lack of missing paint on the frame (or rust) clearly indicates that it doesn't move at all ... so what DON'T I see in the pic?

Thanks,
 
Tracy, What keeps the forward part of the "block" from moving up and down? Unless I'm missing something it looks as though it is free to pivot as you ride, but the lack of missing paint on the frame (or rust) clearly indicates that it doesn't move at all ... so what DON'T I see in the pic?

Thanks,
i believe the bolt tension is all that holds it in place.

places like JC Whitney carry these type of lowering kits.
although they don't list a specific kit for Suzuki, i've got to imagine that one for a Kawi or Yamaha would work with little modification (if any).

these kits seem to be everywhere, but i don't know if they are neccessarily the best way to lower a bike.
I may be new to bikes, but i've worked on road race suspension for cars for a long time and know a little about how suspension works (jus a lil' ;) )

changing the geometry like that may put excessive wear on parts. including side load on the shocks that they are not designed to handle.
the angle that the shock is moved into to "lower" the bike may move the shock into a range of motion that is not ideal in relation to the frame, axle and swingarm.

a better route would be to look into shorter shocks that are valved for that amount of travel if you can afford to go that route.
but these types of blocks get the job done, just maybe not in the most IDEAL way.
 
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Between the bolt tension and of course the weight of the rider, and bike itself is enough to keep the blocks from moving. As long as you keep the rearend on the pavement you shouldn't have any problems.
 
Here you go Ron:lol: :lol: :lol:
P1280142.jpg

Tracy, i would say,and i am not exaggerating,yours is one of the top 10 most beautiful stock bikes in the USA.I went to strokers many times in Dallas and looked at their $50,000 easter eggs.I would 10 times over rather have your bike.I like guns and girls bikes and beer and Tracy's bike.(hardtails show)
 
Thanks again Ron

Thanks again Ron

Thanks again Ron, I appreciate your comments about my bike. I love the way it turned out myself. I've owned it for twenty-one years now and it finally looks the way I've wanted it to. I have thought about entering it into a couple of bike shows, but I've haven't had the guts. I want to finish some more details on it, then maybe next summer I'll try a show. I submitted it for BOM months ago, that would be cool to see. Thanks again Tracy
 
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