• Required reading for all forum users!!!

    Welcome!
    Register to access the full functionality of the GSResources forum. Until you register and activate your account you will not have full forum access, nor will you be able to post or reply to messages.

    A note to new registrants...
    All new forum registrations must be activated via email before you have full access to the forum.

    A Special Note about Email accounts!
    DO NOT SIGN UP USING hotmail, outlook, gmx, sbcglobal, att, bellsouth or email.com. They delete our forum signup emails.

    A note to old forum members...
    I receive numerous requests from people who can no longer log in because their accounts were deleted. As mentioned in the forum FAQ, user accounts are deleted if you haven't logged in for the past 6 months. If you can't log in, then create a new forum account. If you don't get an error message, then check your email account for an activation message. If you get a message stating that the email address is already in use, then your account still exists so follow the instructions in the forum FAQ for resetting your password.

    Have you forgotten your password or have a new email address? Then read the forum FAQ for details on how to reset it.

    Any email requests for "can't log in anymore" problems or "lost my password" problems will be deleted. Read the forum FAQ and follow the instructions there - that's what we have one for...

  • Returning Visitors

    If you are a returning visitor who never received your confirmation email, then odds are your email provider is blockinig emails from our server. The only thing that can be done to get around this is you will have to try creating another forum account using an email address from another domain.

    If you are a returning visitor to the forum and can't log in using your old forum name and password but used to be able to then chances are your account is deleted. Purges of the databases are done regularly. You will have to create a new forum account and you should be all set.

Lubricating the speedometer drive.

  • Thread starter Thread starter Anonymous
  • Start date Start date
A

Anonymous

Guest
Any thoughts on what to use? (This is inside the speedo not the cable)
I'm concerned WD-40 is to thin. Thought about PJ-1 (chain lube) but maybe it's to thick?
Or have I missed the point and does the lube from the cable work it's way in there? When I tested it with a cordless drill (I'm replacing the unit) found that it turns counter-clockwise, maybe it works the cable lube back up into the unit's drive mechanism.

(Also found out that my cordless drill runs 30 miles an hour :D ).
 
If you wanna make sure that the entire cable is lubed then take the complete cable of the bike, remove the inner cable and wipe it of with a rag and cover it with grease (I use bearing grease). Put the inner cable back into the outer cable and wipe off the excess grease and install it back on your bike.
When I took my speedometer cable out after I bought the 1000S I could see that the lubricant on it only covered it for about 5 inches, now I know for sure that it's lubricated completely. Good luck.
 
Re: Lubricating the speedometer drive.

PJ, WD40 is NOT a lubricant, it is a water displacement compound.
It should never be used in any application where a lubricant is specified. A small amount of chain lube should do just fine.

Earl

pjackson said:
Any thoughts on what to use? (This is inside the speedo not the cable)
I'm concerned WD-40 is to thin. Thought about PJ-1 (chain lube) but maybe it's to thick?
Click to expand...
 
Re: Lubricating the speedometer drive.

earlfor said:
PJ, WD40 is NOT a lubricant, it is a water displacement compound.
It should never be used in any application where a lubricant is specified. A small amount of chain lube should do just fine.

Earl

pjackson said:
Any thoughts on what to use? (This is inside the speedo not the cable)
I'm concerned WD-40 is to thin. Thought about PJ-1 (chain lube) but maybe it's to thick?
Click to expand...

That's where the name came from - Water Displacement formula 40.
or WD40.

Terry
Click to expand...
 
I have been using the spray type of chain lubes to treat my cables, for years. It sprays easily and is thin enough to penetrate into the brades. Then it sort'a thickens up and stays put. I do remove the cables and lube them or just replace them if they are really bad. They're cheap enough
GY
 
Re: Lubricating the speedometer drive.

Hmmm Terry, I guess its called WD40 then because the first 39 attempts were unsuccessful. :-) :-)

Earl

TheNose said:
That's where the name came from - Water Displacement formula 40.
or WD40.

Terry
Click to expand...
 
lube

lube

Hi

I read the question as how to lubricate the speedometer drive, not the cable (I may have mis-understood the question). The answers on cable lubing were great and I realized I have another chore to do (lube the cables properly).

Any ideas on lubricants/cleansers for the instrument itself? I will have my cluster apart this winter and would appreciate any advice on lubing/cleaning the actual instrument mechanisms.

Thanks,

Patrick
 
I would think if you used a "wet" lubricant that it would accumulate dirt over time and do more damage than good. How about cleaning it then using something like graphite? Maybe use WD40 to clean it, then wash that out with alcohol and blow it out with compressed air before putting the graphite on. These are just my thoughts. I have never done it so be careful. Whatever you do, please report back and let us know the results. My speedometer is starting to act erratic and I need to do something to it too. Maybe I'll try my own suggestion.

Terry
 
Re: lube

Re: lube

patrikobrien said:
Hi

I read the question as how to lubricate the speedometer drive, not the cable (I may have mis-understood the question). The answers on cable lubing were great and I realized I have another chore to do (lube the cables properly).

Any ideas on lubricants/cleansers for the instrument itself? I will have my cluster apart this winter and would appreciate any advice on lubing/cleaning the actual instrument mechanisms.

Thanks,

Patrick
Click to expand...

Ding Ding, Ding. On to the bonus round patrikobrien. You are the winner!
Yeah that was the original intent of my question, about the internal mechanism of the speedo drive. But two for the price of one is great!
I was actually wondering about a good method to lube cables as well.

While were on the subject, what about cables that the core can't be removed from, i.e. clutch and throttle.
Seems if you have time, hang it vertical and apply a little at a time and let it drain through?
 
Re: Lubricating the speedometer drive.

earlfor said:
Hmmm Terry, I guess its called WD40 then because the first 39 attempts were unsuccessful. :-) :-)

Earl

TheNose said:
That's where the name came from - Water Displacement formula 40.
or WD40.

Terry
Click to expand...
Click to expand...

You're quite perceptive for a Floridian. :D That's exactly correct. 39 formulas before they found the one they liked.

Terry
 
Re: lube

Re: lube

pjackson said:
While were on the subject, what about cables that the core can't be removed from, i.e. clutch and throttle.
Seems if you have time, hang it vertical and apply a little at a time and let it drain through?
Click to expand...
I recently purchase a "Cable Luber Kit" from www.competitionaccessories.com for $13.99 It consists of a small aluminum & rubber device that clamps to the top of the cable and a can of lubricant. There is a port that you spray the lubricant into and it's supposed to force the lubricant through until you see it coming out the other end. I'll let you know if it works as soon as I have a chance to try it.
 
A good 'household' oil such as '3-in-1' oil works well for this. Another option is to go to Rat Shack and get there needle oiler. neat little container with a needle end that gets into real small places.... :P
 
wd-40

wd-40

propflux01 said:
Also, WD is 90% Kerosene.
Click to expand...
but kerosene is a higher refined version of diesel 2 witch is an oil? :wink: :wink:
 
After taking the speedo out of it's casing I think I'm going to go with a lithium based grease. There was a little dab of something left in there and thats what it felt like.

The green gear in the rear of the unit (in the second picture) is driven by a metal gear. http://webpages.charter.net/pejackson/speedometer.htm
Looks like something fairly thick will be needed to stay there and supply lubrication.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top