Major chain stretch

[Anonymous]

My GS400 is stetching the chain like its got a nitrous bottle on it! I put 1100km on her last week and I went from 1" to 3" of slack and I can't figure out why.

Here's what I'm thinking so far but I'd like some input:
-the chain is stamped DID 50, perhaps they are bad chains?
-the last 3 hours of travelling where in the rain at 90-120km/h
-the sprockets weren't changed with the chain but I figure that the
need to replace them all at once is an Old Wive's Tale. :lol:

What do you guys think is going on here? If this bike doesn't shape up I'm gonna give it to a millionaire so he can wine and dine her...

Thanks, Steve

 

[Anonymous]

Two weeks ago, I noticed the same thing on my chain (GSX750ES) and got 2nd opinions from two shops. The chain was stretched beyond tensioning. (i.e. was no thread left on the tensioner) Both shops advised me to replace the chain and sprockets. ($130,=)

I got a new chain and after I put it on, I noticed the chain standard comes with two extra links. I removed the pair and tensioned it at the first notch on the swingarm. I counted the links on the old chain and saw that the previous mechanic had not bothered to take the extra links off, so it seemed if the chain had stretched too far. The sprockets were hardly worn (I compared the old with the new) so I could have saved the trouble by just taking a link out. (Now why didn't they tell me this at the shops..?) Now I have conserved the old set and have bought a new masterlink ($3,=) for future replacement.

Still, when you feel the chain is stretching excessively, and the sprockets seem fine (which takes an experienced eye) you may want to try removing a link or just replace the whole chain. I feel that when the top of the teeth on the sprockets are still flat, they are OK. Another theory is that the chain and sprockets "wear into eachother" and that just replacing the chain will reduce chain-life.

I myself have no experience with this. 8)

 

[Jethro]

Last year had the same problem. The chain that was on my bike when I got it had finally had it, so I bought a cheap chain (mistake # 1). I will never, ever replace my chain with anything other that the best I can buy. A cheap chain is not worth the money as it will end up taking 5 cheap chains to last as much as a good one. What I have learned from my experience is that there is almost no way to visually judge that the sprockets need replacing. Really, I have managed a pedal bike store that specializes in very high end bikes for 11 years, I've raced mountain bikes for a living, I think I know a few things about sprocket wear. Oh no! Someone I trust recently sent me to school about this. Apparently the extreme stress put on motorcycle drive parts will destroy chains even if the teeth are only 1/1000th of an inch off. As the previous post mentioned, this is extermely tough for even an experienced tech to evaluate. I asked my buddy (a professional race biker) how he determines if his own sprockets need replacment. His reply? "When your chain starts stretching excessivly, meathead." Basicly, replace your sprockets. I can almost gaurentee this is the cause no matter how the parts appear. Also, I'm not sure of the model of D.I.D. chain you have. I've never heard of a 50 model. Just make sure you buy an o-ring chain (very important).

 

[Anonymous]

How many miles total were on that chain? When they start to stretch they go fast. I went on a 3,000 mile trip a few years ago. On the first half the chain needed maybe one adjustment. On the way home it got to the point I was adjusting every 100 miles. I was lucky to find an open bike shop. There are a lot of good brand of chains out there and they all seem to have a range of prices and quality. Buy their best and make sure it's a o-ring or x-ring, it's worth the money. A cheap chain is false economy.
Axel

 

[Anonymous]

I think the chain has 5000km on it, perhaps 7000km. I had it put on when I first got the bike. What I am thinking at this point is that it isn't an o-ring chain so I have to take a good look at it and compare it to a known o-ring chain. I also have to follow Arnolds thought about having too many links because my chain started out half way through the tensioner.

Either way the bike will be sitting for another few days because I have to pull the back wheel and see what's up with the brake shoes sticking. Then I will redo the tension.

Next spring I will be replacing the chain and sprockets before I give the bike to my brother (If I get my new KTM, Ducati, or Triumph) so he can learn on it.

Steve

 

[Anonymous]

........ His reply? "When your chain starts stretching excessivly, meathead." Basicly, replace your sprockets. I can almost gaurentee this is the cause no matter how the parts appear.......

Good one here, Jethro! Thanks for the tip!

 

[Anonymous]

.....I've never heard of a 50 model. ....

The 50 refers to the size. A 50 is the same as a 530.

 

[Jethro]

The 50 refers to the size. A 50 is the same as a 530.

Well, in that case, a D.I.D. 530 is a right good chain. And o-ring at that! It's the sprockets man.

 

[Anonymous]

Just wanted to mention a couple of things. First, I was looking through a Chaparral catalog at the D.I.D. chain specs. The standard 530 chain has a wear life index of 100, while the 530V Professional O-ring chain is 2,540. Now I don't know exactly what that means, but it sounds like the O-ring will last much longer than their standard chain. Second, chain adjustment is critical. A tight chain will not only wear out quickly but will ruin sprockets, wheel and transmission bearings also. Third, I've found that O.E.M. sprockets will usually last twice as long as a chain, but of course I check them carefully before putting a new chain on.
Axel

 

[lecroy]

Re: Major chain stretch

-the sprockets weren't changed with the chain but I figure that the
need to replace them all at once is an Old Wive's Tale. :lol:

Why do you think this is an old wive's tale??

 

[Anonymous]

Id would like to hear the chain oiling method--the types of ubrication used and the intervals of the lube application .from the fellows that had the chain stretching problems --if any of you care to give me that information

 

[Jeff Tate]

A chain dosen't stretch but wears from long useage and/or improper or no lubrication. My ist chain on my '82 1100EZ lasted more than 16-17000 miles, then it was time for a new one AND sprockets too. Spend the money on quality parts and you'll be working on your bike less and riding it more. I regularly use either PJ1 or Bel-Ray chain lube after cleaning the chain 1st with kerosene then drying it. After the lube I let it dry and wipe off the excess. Recently I've tried coating the chain with Chain wax after that has all been done and it really seems to help repel dirt and water and I don't have the mess to clean off the wheel.

 

[Jethro]

As a self proclaimed expert on chains and sprockets from my years of owning an extremely high end pedal bike store I respectfully disagree with you Jeff.

A chain dosen't stretch but wears from long useage and/or improper or no lubrication.

Chains most definetly stretch, and that is what causes the wear on the sprockets. Yes, low luberication and long usage causes it. I know a pedal bike chain is a different animal, but even under the much lower horsepower of a human, I've seen chains stretch 3/4". Then the sprockets begin to wear to a stretched chain. On pedal bikes, if the chain stretch gets excessive, you must replace the sprockets with a chain or deal with serious skipping until the chain stretches, at which point you need a new chain again. Customers would always get pissed when they would ask me to put on a new chain and it would skip. Then they would think I was trying to hose them for a few dollars on sprockets. Pros will often use two chains and alternate them to prolong the sprocket life, but on a pedal bike it is a 2 minute job.

 

[Anonymous]

I think what he meant to say is that the side plates don't stretch. The overall length of the chain does elongate and that's due to the wear between the pins and bushing. I image the same thing is happening on a bicycle chain.
Axel

 

[Jethro]

Side plates measurably stretch as do pins and bushings. And... I'm... spent.

 

[earlfor]

Well Jethro, I dont know about your 1150, but on my 750, changing the chain and sprockets is dead simple. So much so that my German Shep usually does it for me. Takes him about 5 minutes.

Earl

Pros will often use two chains and alternate them to prolong the sprocket life, but on a pedal bike it is a 2 minute job.

 

[Jethro]

Boy am I surprised none of the shafties have bumped in on this one! 'Cmon boys, are 'ya sleeping or what?

 

[JJ]

Us "shafties" usually ignore any posts relating to chains!

Can't you tell that I did??

 

[argonsagas]

I

Either way the bike will be sitting for another few days because I have to pull the back wheel and see what's up with the brake shoes sticking. Then I will redo the tension.



Steve

Some pads throw a lot of carbon as they wear and/or collect road junk. If not cleaned, this stuff will eventually drag on the disk. The day I got my GS, the battery failed in a park lot, and I thought I would just push-start it. Felt just like I was pushing a car and I could not get enough speed to do anything, even on a sloping park lot!

Had no choice but to call home and ask wife to bring booster cables. (Cell phones are great!)

After getting it boosted I drove it home and bought a recommended spray brake cleaner. Wow! Black junk literally rained off the brakes, but once everything dried, the wheel would turn.

It evaporates in seconds, but you must put something absorbent under the wheel and use the cleaner liberally.. My pads have since been replaced, but I use the spray regularly to avoid repetition of the above problem.

The one I have is called BRAKLEEN, and I bought it at Princess Auto, but there are other brands..just be certain it is specifically meant for brakes and states that it leaves no residue.

 

[Anonymous]

To follow up on this story I'll have to say nothing has happened. In the last 3 weeks I've been so busy I've only used the bike once in order to get gas for the RAV4 when it ran out in its parking spot.

What I've used on the chain so far has been Castrol Lube (crap, doesn't stay on) and now I use Canadian Tire brand which stays on a lot longer but does come off in the rain. I'm gonna replace the chain and sprockets next spring but I want to count the links on the current chain just in case.

Steve