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Mark 1 pod filters.

  • Thread starter Thread starter spyug
  • Start date Start date
S

spyug

Guest
Well with no go on the homemade airbox hoses ( need to put airbox on carbs out of frame and then no room to get the whole kit and caboodle on the head.) it was time to go to plan B.....pods.

As I've mentioned, K&Ns are too spendy so i've been looking at alternatives including some that Ray put me on to along with the Unis i've used in the past. As I can't get anything local and I'm impatient, I decided to do what I'm best at.......cobble something else up. Or "bodge" as our Limey bretheren say.

Since I was in Lowes anyway getting kerosene for the heater in the cave, I wander into the parts area for yard equipment and start looking at airfilters for lawn mowers and such. I find the foam element material and the lightbulb is starting to brighten in my noggin. With the airbox rubbers I fabbed still on the carbs looking for all the world like velocity stacks I'm thinking wy not stuff some filter material in them and see what happens.

Now how do I hold the filters in? I take a stroll into the plumbing section and see thes 2" plastic caps that should fit right on. If I cut them open it should work.

This is what I came up with:

podjpeg.jpg


The foam is about and inch thick and you can blow through it easily. I can shorten the tubes if it seems necessary but I won't know until I get the bike fired up again and play with the carb adjustments.

Now don't panic guys, this is a temporary measure pending proper pods or the airbox hoses turning up and yes the orange caps are a bit garrish but a lick of paint could fix that.

I'll let you know how they work when I fire up again tomorrow.

Cheers,
spyug

PS My apologies for the size of the photo again. I had reseized it to 50% of original but I guess that's not enough. I'll keep trying.
 
Surface area looks too small to flow enough air at high rpm's. If they do work as a temporary solution I'd oil the foam. Make sure the foam is secure so it doesn't get sucked into the intakes.
 
Thanks guys.

I don't intend on running these on the street. I just want to get the engine running a bit more to "break it in" again and to work on the charging system.

I'd really like to get K&n pods but they're just too pricey. I did have some good experiences with Unipods on my XS so I might go that direction if I can locate the right size.

Alot of my problem is I hate having to wait for stuff plus I enjoy fiddly farting around:D

I'll let you know how it turns out.

Cheers,
Spyug
 
Looks like you've got some nice kit there. I hope they work well for you.

Did you put some sort of screen or cage behind them to keep them from deforming, or worse yet, getting drawn into the carbs/engine?

I will be interested to know how they work for you.

Happy Bodging!
 
Thanks McG.

I have a screen fixed at the end of the hoses to keep the filter in place. The hoses are rigid enough that they don't deform so I don't expect any issues at the filters.

The engine will only be run at idle up to say 3500 so I don't think it will put any real stress on things anyway.

I wish my local guys would carry some of the pods and such so I didn't need to stress on this stuff.

Cheers,
Spyug

Thanks Ed, Ray gave me a heads up on those today. I was going to check things out with my local wrench as he mentioned there are some new ones he has located that are supposed to be K&N quality too. Its always easier if you gets tuff locally I always think ( especially as I hate waiting for things).
 
Last edited:
also mikesxs has k&n generic pod filters for real cheap that might work for your carbs
 
APE pods are $60 and reputed to be high quality. http://gszone.biz/carbs.html
do what ed said and get the ape pods next best thing to K&N's for 1/3 the price anything cheaper and they have next to no air flow
i had the UNI filters they were ok but they have a tendency to disintegrate after a few years mine only lasted 3 years on a GS750
just so you know had my K&N's for 10 years now clean em once a season unless i feel the need to be cleaned more often so really they may be pricey but they last longest and flow the best hands down i just had a look and the UNI's are $37.95 for 2 the ape pods are less and better but the best are the K&N's
just my thoughts
 
The K&N's are worth every dollar. I bought them for my 82 Katana for about $140 and dont regret it at all. The quality and fit is outstanding. If you take care of them, clean and oil them, they'll last for a very long time.

I went cheap on a friends bike I was fixing up and bought those emgo pods for about $40, what pieces of garbage. They fell apart putting them on and dont even fit right. I bought them by application and they squeexe in against the frame and hit the choke lever.

But If I were going inexpensive, go with the uni''s, I had them on my GS750 and liked them.
 
also mikesxs has k&n generic pod filters for real cheap that might work for your carbs
"K&N generic pod filters"??? :-k

Somehow, "K&N" and "generic" just don't go together in the same description. :o
Remember, K&N is a registered brand, not just a type of filter.



Spyderman, your post is VERY hard to read. I know the period works on your keyboard, you used it as a decimal in the price of the pods.

I think you were mentioning in the first line that the APE filters have next to no air flow?
... get the ape pods next best thing to K&N's for 1/3 the price anything cheaper and they have next to no air flow ...
Somehow, that does not seem to be a desireable feature for an air filter.
Again, punctuating a sentence can drastically change what you say, so we are just not sure. :o

.
 
I like it!

So far they seem to be working tickety boo. Once warmed up, the bike idled nicely around 1400 and would "blip" easily and settle back down with no wandering. Its been idling away for 20 minutes or so and I'm going to pull the plugs shortly for a look see.

I want to pull the wheels off today and get them ready for new rubber so I may not synch the carbs until I get proper pods as I might have to rejet and its not worth doing it twice ( or maybe it is for practice).

The bike seems to be charging properly but I'm going to put on the extra ground lead to the battery and will also start to clean up and properly position the wiring harness in anticipation of my lights coming from Russ (thanks mate). While I'm in there I may do the coil relay mod too but at the moment it doesn't look necessary as the voltage drop is only around .2Volt.

Thanks for all the interest in these "spyug plugs". It would be interesting to see how they do work in riding conditions if for no other reason than to prove to myself I'm not a total wacko:pray:

Time for some lunch then back to wrenching.

Cheers all
Spyug

PS sorry if this is in the wrong section but I thought it could be a performance mod:o ( actually I put it in the wrong spot...sorry)
 
Many thanks DDM I appreciate your kind words. Nice to know someone doesn't think I'm totally wack:)

I got a fair bit of dissassembly and clean up done today. Pulled the wheels and took off the calipers and disks. Cleaned the wheels and the disks so tomorrow I'm planning on ripping into the calipers. If I get the time I'd like to pull and rip into the forks as well but that might have to wait until later in the week.

I feel like I'm on a bit of a roll now so I want to keep moving ahead. Mind you there is a lot of fiddly little cleanup that needs doing as well ( like nuts and bolts, axles, shocks and all the stuff connected with the swingarm) and that takes time.

Well there's still enough winter left to do all that.

Cheers,
Spyug
 
"K&N generic pod filters"??? :-k

Somehow, "K&N" and "generic" just don't go together in the same description. :o
Remember, K&N is a registered brand, not just a type of filter.



Spyderman, your post is VERY hard to read. I know the period works on your keyboard, you used it as a decimal in the price of the pods.

I think you were mentioning in the first line that the APE filters have next to no air flow?

Somehow, that does not seem to be a desireable feature for an air filter.
Again, punctuating a sentence can drastically change what you say, so we are just not sure. :o

.
my bad
K&N's are the best but are costly but worth it
i was saying get the ape pods they are the best bang for the buck and work well
anything cheaper almost always have poor airflow and are not worth it
 
my bad
K&N's are the best but are costly but worth it
i was saying get the ape pods they are the best bang for the buck and work well
anything cheaper almost always have poor airflow and are not worth it

The reason K&N's flow lots of air is because they are crappy filters.
http://www.duramax-diesel.com/spicer/index.htm

K&N/APE filters + rejetting kit = $150+

Removing the stock airbox only adds marginal power at best, requires rejetting, and allows more dirt to get though to your engine. Why?

Airfiltertest.jpg
 
Many thanks DDM I appreciate your kind words. Nice to know someone doesn't think I'm totally wack:)

I got a fair bit of dissassembly and clean up done today. Pulled the wheels and took off the calipers and disks. Cleaned the wheels and the disks so tomorrow I'm planning on ripping into the calipers. If I get the time I'd like to pull and rip into the forks as well but that might have to wait until later in the week.

I feel like I'm on a bit of a roll now so I want to keep moving ahead. Mind you there is a lot of fiddly little cleanup that needs doing as well ( like nuts and bolts, axles, shocks and all the stuff connected with the swingarm) and that takes time.

Well there's still enough winter left to do all that.

Cheers,
Spyug


I always think its cool when people think outside the box a little and do with what they have..thats inventive.

On a side note I'd bet you could find an air filter chart showing flow higher for just about any filter brand you want.
 
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