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Mark 1 pod filters.

  • Thread starter Thread starter spyug
  • Start date Start date
I always think its cool when people think outside the box a little and do with what they have..thats inventive.

On a side note I'd bet you could find an air filter chart showing flow higher for just about any filter brand you want.

Here is another test showing how K&N filters don't filter all that great. http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=66&Itemid=76

Feel free to post a link to a test that shows the opposite.
 
Here is another test showing how K&N filters don't filter all that great. http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=66&Itemid=76

Feel free to post a link to a test that shows the opposite.

well ed to me higher air flow = more power and with the head work that i have done on my bike it needs the higher flow for it to work as it should.
To each there own as they say some like pods some don't, some say they filter well some don't, i have had them for coming up on 11 seasons and have had no problems with them at all they work great for me, they do the job of filtering the air and give me the flow that i need, so from my point of view they do what the should.
 
well ed to me higher air flow = more power and with the head work that i have done on my bike it needs the higher flow for it to work as it should.
To each there own as they say some like pods some don't, some say they filter well some don't, i have had them for coming up on 11 seasons and have had no problems with them at all they work great for me, they do the job of filtering the air and give me the flow that i need, so from my point of view they do what the should.
I've run my K&N's for 23 years now, same set. The bike still runs hard up to redline in 5th. The test most likely is with a brand new filter. They do filter better once dirt starts building up on them. K&N recommends spraying oil right on the dirt as the filters need it and only washing them when you can't stand the looks of them anymore.
 
I've run my K&N's for 23 years now, same set. The bike still runs hard up to redline in 5th. The test most likely is with a brand new filter. They do filter better once dirt starts building up on them. K&N recommends spraying oil right on the dirt as the filters need it and only washing them when you can't stand the looks of them anymore.

well i agree with you billy, as i said they have served me well and i wouldn't change them out for any reason. i like them and they give me the air flow and performance that i need and last a very long time, so to me they are worth every penny and then some, and if you break it down for me they have cost $14.54 a year that's cheap for air filters and they will continue to get cheaper.
as i said before i ran the UNI Filters for about 3 years and then foam started to break down and disintegrate at the time they cost me $90 for 3 years then they were no good. i then decided to bite the bullet and get the K&N's and have never looked back
 
The reason K&N's flow lots of air is because they are crappy filters.
http://www.duramax-diesel.com/spicer/index.htm

K&N/APE filters + rejetting kit = $150+

Removing the stock airbox only adds marginal power at best, requires rejetting, and allows more dirt to get though to your engine. Why?

Airfiltertest.jpg
Because my piped & jetted bike will eat yours for LUNCH!!! :D Ray.
 
hi,
i have to ask this question concerning this argument. by far i am no expert on filters, or motorcyles but, all that data is on diesel engines. how does data on a low rev engines(diesel) come in compare to hi rev(bikes) engines? o and i love this site just signed up today. lol had to break in some way:).
 
hi,
i have to ask this question concerning this argument. by far i am no expert on filters, or motorcyles but, all that data is on diesel engines. how does data on a low rev engines(diesel) come in compare to hi rev(bikes) engines? o and i love this site just signed up today. lol had to break in some way:).

Diesel engine run without any restriction on air flow, they are not throttled. So essentially, a diesel is ran "wide open" all of the time.

BTW, welcome to the forums. Good to have new members.:)
 
The whole K&N panic has been popping up on the car forums I go to...Ill ask the same question here as I did there:


Has anyone actually heard of an engine failing prematurely due to K&N filters?
 
I find it interesting about the K&N since it makes sense that to flow more air, you must not filter quite as well. Years ago, on a KLX forum, this discussion would surface from time to time and the general consensus was that they probably do result in shortened engine life but how much less was debatable. One poster had always insisted that a properly oiled foam filter (the stock was foam for this bike) was the best for flow and filtration.

I figure for my stock bikes, the stock parts will likely give me adequate performance. Especially, if I perform routine maintenance on them:-\\\.
 
You get an A from me in inventiveness but I suspect your bike will not get sufficient intake airflow. You will be better off short term to run the carbs open. Still, does not hurt to play arount with ideas.
streetfighters
 
Thanks for all the input folks. It been very interesting.

I imagine that these pods will be a bit too restrictive as several have mentioned so I'm working on the next itteration. I believe I can use the cheap Emgos (which flow too much air) and use the foam I got to stuff them to modulate the flow. It will take a bit of fiddling once the bike is on the street but I believe I can figure it out.

I have some other ideas as well so you never know what might come out for Mark 2s.

Cheers all,
Spyug
 
The whole K&N panic has been popping up on the car forums I go to...Ill ask the same question here as I did there:


Has anyone actually heard of an engine failing prematurely due to K&N filters?

If they have, it has been a well kept secret.
 
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