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Massive Carburetor problems, need help

  • Thread starter Thread starter 82gs1100gl
  • Start date Start date
8

82gs1100gl

Guest
Hello fellow GS riders, I am new here so please
forgive me of this has been covered
(I've been searching since last night with no luck)

problems
-running on three cylinders
-immediately fouls new plugs in the non running
cylinder and the one next to it looks bad
-strong gasoline smell upon starting
-popping (LOUD) misfiring sputtering and stalling
extremely low power w intermittent bursts of almost full power
-sometimes pours quite a bit of gas through the airbox overflow tube



Now from what I've read from this wonderful site, I know my carbs are not healthy, specifically my float needles or another part of them? (I really don't know much about carbs) and I've seen that the petcock (which doesn't work in reserve) could also be causing problems...and that they may even be working together.

Looking for a cheap fix, or a cheap carb alternative that is as good or better for performance and reliability

thanks in advance and sorry if this has already been asked

-Mark
 
Almost forgot, bike is a 1982 GS1100GL (or G or L the shaftie "cruiser")
 
You DO NOT need any rebuild kits. What you need are the orings for the carbs and the intake manifolds.

And DO NOT grip the float seats with pliers to get them out!! This will squish the hole out of round and then that seat is junked. Take a very thin blade and get it between the carb body and the shoulder of the seats and gently work around the seat and get them pried out that way.

DO NOT heat the seats to try and loosen the grip of the crud. There are screens in there that are held to the seats by a plastic locking band and heat will melt them.

Get the CV carb kit ( 1 kit does all 4 carbs ) and the intake manifold rings are on page 3. Measure the ID of the old orings and get the same size

http://cycleorings.com/
 
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Is the non firing cylinder #2 (second from left as you sit on bike) ? Then suspect petcock- in fact, always suspect petcock! Try disconnecting and blocking off vacuum line from petcock to carb #2- you'll have to use "pr" spot to get fuel to flow now, but now no fuel fuel can dribble/pour down the vac line.
 
Thank you guys so much for the wisdom and quick response, I'll have my shop try this and get back to you
 
Useless waste of time trying to trouble shoot with known gumped up carbs..get them rebuilt per the tutorial and THEN youll be able to be precise on what the "other" problems are.
 
Hello fellow GS riders, I am new here so please
forgive me of this has been covered
(I've been searching since last night with no luck)

problems
-running on three cylinders
-immediately fouls new plugs in the non running
cylinder and the one next to it looks bad
-strong gasoline smell upon starting
-popping (LOUD) misfiring sputtering and stalling
extremely low power w intermittent bursts of almost full power
-sometimes pours quite a bit of gas through the airbox overflow tube



Now from what I've read from this wonderful site, I know my carbs are not healthy, specifically my float needles or another part of them? (I really don't know much about carbs) and I've seen that the petcock (which doesn't work in reserve) could also be causing problems...and that they may even be working together.

Looking for a cheap fix, or a cheap carb alternative that is as good or better for performance and reliability

thanks in advance and sorry if this has already been asked

-Mark

If you're having a shop working on this old of a bike, it's not gonna be a cheap fix and more than likely they won't get it done correctly because they don't know the specifics of this bike. They'll probably buy 4 carb rebuild kits $40-$80 a piece, then charge you $200 in labor to clean then and rebuild them. I would take the bike back, take the carbs off, and build it yourself. It will be WAAY cheaper and you are more knowledgeable about the carbs. It doesn't take an Einstein.
 
You're completely correct about the crazy prices for a shop to do it, and I would really love to do the work myself, but I don't have anywhere to do it, the right tools, and I really do not know enough about carbs to be comfortable tearing them down on my only vehicle. Either way, my shop is picking it up tomorrow, and they still give me an employee discount, hopefully it won't be too expensive :/
 
Expect 450 to 600 from the shop. I do them for 185 a rack. Thats everything and shipping back. I order the orings and gaskets. All you need to do is box them and send a money order with them..or use paypal. Depending on what you want to spend and how long you want to be down I am offering an option. And youll be assured that they will be done right and save a boat load of cash. PM me if your interested for my info.

2 or 3 days each way shipping and 2 days to do the dipping and reassembly so you looking at around 7 or 8 days turn around time....roughly. I get the bowl gaskets out of Canada so and it usually takes 4 or 5 days to get to me I am usuaally done and just waiting on the gaskets to come and then its ship them back.
 
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Don't ask for help if you're not gonna listen. These guys know their stuff.
 
You're completely correct about the crazy prices for a shop to do it, and I would really love to do the work myself, but I don't have anywhere to do it, the right tools, and I really do not know enough about carbs to be comfortable tearing them down on my only vehicle. Either way, my shop is picking it up tomorrow, and they still give me an employee discount, hopefully it won't be too expensive :/

Damn and you're having the shop pick it up? Are they charging you for that or is it a good faith move? I can see dollar signs in their eyes. Make sure to get an itemized statement. For sure make sure they've changed the O-rings between the head and intake boots and make sure they've rebuilt the carbs and also sealed the airbox. This should be good to go after that.
 
If you want to pay someone to mess with your carbs for you, contact Chef 1366 on this list. Cheaper, and better. Here is the link:

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?148764-I-rebuild-carbs

I've done my own, but I sent him the difficult ones that I was convinced that I would destroy in disassembly. They were so closely bench synched when I got them back that I barely had to touch them at all. Also, your petcock is clearly bad. Replace it so that you will have a solid foundation. I'm using an aftermarket one from Z1 Enterprises. Welcome
 
Here is the $64,000 question, when were the valves last adjusted? And yes it makes a difference. It's service that should be done (assuming it's been awhile) while the carbs are off. It eliminates one problem area out of the equation. The petcock could be the another one.
 
If you're gonna own one of these older bikes you have to be able to do the maintenance or they will eat you alive in shop costs. Also I wouldn't depend on one as a DD unless you KNOW how to do everything on the bike..
 
Expect 450 to 600 from the shop. I do them for 185 a rack. Thats everything and shipping back. I order the orings and gaskets. All you need to do is box them and send a money order with them..or use paypal. Depending on what you want to spend and how long you want to be down I am offering an option. And youll be assured that they will be done right and save a boat load of cash. PM me if your interested for my info.

2 or 3 days each way shipping and 2 days to do the dipping and reassembly so you looking at around 7 or 8 days turn around time....roughly. I get the bowl gaskets out of Canada so and it usually takes 4 or 5 days to get to me I am usually done and just waiting on the gaskets to come and then its ship them back.

And they would be back in the bike and working at least 3-4 weeks before the dealership could have them done plus you would be saving $300-400.00 to use on some other parts. ;)
Including some gasoline so that you could be riding it instead of WAITING on the dealership to finish in time for the snow.
 
If you're gonna own one of these older bikes you have to be able to do the maintenance or they will eat you alive in shop costs. Also I wouldn't depend on one as a DD unless you KNOW how to do everything on the bike..

I have to agree...Getting work done on a classic comes at a premium when you go to a shop.

Also you live in massachusetts, and this is going to be your only vehicle in winter? Granted I've seen stranger things (top-down convertible in the middle of winter on a cold day with snow on the ground, both windows all the way down on the highway during a pouring rain, and other crazy stuff)
 
Sorry your in Maine. But I get slightly disgruntled at how you people down grade the Dealers and how they will rip you off etc. Half the yahoos you on here talk people into fixing there own carbs, cam timing, ect, And most of them they don't have a clue themselves. Excluding several on here. After 35 years experience I have seen many problems, Fixed them all. Proud to say. Some of the people on here need proper guidance, Especially when they don't know one hose from another just be careful where you get your advice. But with Suzuki I have 100% customer satisfaction. I take all the updates and have been Gold Certified with Suzuki for 10 years now. Not all dealers are out to screw you. Thanks.
 
EZRIDER,,,,Your right,,not all are out to screw you...but MOST have techs that dont know these bikes little quirks as they are too young to know anything other than EFI and what they got from going to MMI. Want a real job done right, then I suggest you get it done by someone like me or the many others that DO hands on everything themselves. Least WE KNOW what we are talking about and doing. Job will be done right the FIRST time and way cheaper.

We read dozens and dozens of times from guys that find the GSR and they tell a similar story....took bike in and it cost me 500.00 and its falling on its face..whats wrong. Then in about 10 posts back and forth we find the problem and next day we get a reply something like this....Thanks guys!!! Did what you said and now she pulls like a freight train!!! Sad that they wasted the time and money on a dealership.
 
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