• Required reading for all forum users!!!

    Welcome!
    Register to access the full functionality of the GSResources forum. Until you register and activate your account you will not have full forum access, nor will you be able to post or reply to messages.

    A note to new registrants...
    All new forum registrations must be activated via email before you have full access to the forum.

    A Special Note about Email accounts!
    DO NOT SIGN UP USING hotmail, outlook, gmx, sbcglobal, att, bellsouth or email.com. They delete our forum signup emails.

    A note to old forum members...
    I receive numerous requests from people who can no longer log in because their accounts were deleted. As mentioned in the forum FAQ, user accounts are deleted if you haven't logged in for the past 6 months. If you can't log in, then create a new forum account. If you don't get an error message, then check your email account for an activation message. If you get a message stating that the email address is already in use, then your account still exists so follow the instructions in the forum FAQ for resetting your password.

    Have you forgotten your password or have a new email address? Then read the forum FAQ for details on how to reset it.

    Any email requests for "can't log in anymore" problems or "lost my password" problems will be deleted. Read the forum FAQ and follow the instructions there - that's what we have one for...

  • Returning Visitors

    If you are a returning visitor who never received your confirmation email, then odds are your email provider is blockinig emails from our server. The only thing that can be done to get around this is you will have to try creating another forum account using an email address from another domain.

    If you are a returning visitor to the forum and can't log in using your old forum name and password but used to be able to then chances are your account is deleted. Purges of the databases are done regularly. You will have to create a new forum account and you should be all set.

Master Links

  • Thread starter Thread starter Anonymous
  • Start date Start date
A

Anonymous

Guest
I was going over my bike today and noticed that the clip is missing off of the master link. Should I pull out the master link and replace both it and the clip or should I just replace the clip? I can't pull the unsecure plate off of the chain but I can see evidence of epoxy and the old retaining clip on it.

I must say that I'm really lucky though...I had my 1100 up to 160km/h within the first kilometer of owning it but when I returned to the dealer I found out that they didn't do the safety check I requested. So, the moral of this story is to do your own safety check on ANY bike you are about to buy, borrow or steal.

Steve
 
It sure is strange that someone used epoxy on the clip. It may indicate that the clip had been dammaged by someone and wouldnt stay on. Now i'm a bit frightened and would replace the entire master link but i dont know how to check to see if one is good or not--Seems like a small amount to pay for security.
 
I have heard that alot of people put a dab of silicon on the clip for extra insurance against it coming off, also the closed end of the clip should point in the direction of rotation. I don't have that problem with my GS850 :lol:
 
SqDancerLynn1 said:
I have heard that alot of people put a dab of silicon on the clip for extra insurance against it coming off, also the closed end of the clip should point in the direction of rotation. I don't have that problem with my GS850 :lol:
Click to expand...
That remark has the ring of a drive shaft 8O
 
I would never consider "jury rigging" a master link to keep the clip in place. A new one only costs about a dollar. Way too much risk just to save a dollar.

Earl


slopoke said:
It sure is strange that someone used epoxy on the clip. It may indicate that the clip had been dammaged by someone and wouldnt stay on.
Click to expand...
 
Nothing saver than rivetting it into place. Nothing beats a sledgehammer :)
 
I would get a new link just to be safe. You should see if you can get the one that you do rivet closed, makes it hard to adjust later but damn near garenteed not to come off!!
 
Anybody had any personal experience with a good-condition masterlinks coming apart, or even the clip coming off? Masterlinks are convenient for occasional off-bike chain cleaning or rear wheel removal, and I've had them on every bike I've owned before the 1100. I'd kinda like to go the masterlink route when it comes time to replace this original chain.
 
Al Munro said:
Anybody had any personal experience with a good-condition masterlinks coming apart, or even the clip coming off?
Click to expand...
The only time I've seen them fail is on a dirt drag/hillclimb bike. You must realize though, that the chain is under EXTREME torture during this time. Redline launches and shifts are not considered normal usage. I have never broken a master link on a street bike. I have no hesitations what so ever about using them. 8)
 
I've been riding 32 years and have never had a master link come off or break. My #630 "O" ring chain has a masterlink. A good master link clip will be stiff and snap into place when installed and you will have to use pliers to install it. If its snaps really easily into place requiring a minimum of pressure, I replace it. Under no circumstances should you be able to push it into place with your fingers. Also, ( I doubt many pay attention to this, but...) if you look at a master link clip closely, you will see that it is a stamped part. The "cut" in the center of the clip will have a sharp, square edge on one face and a rounded edge on the other. I make sure to install the clip with the sharp edge to the outside for a more positive lock into the groove in the linkpin.

Earl

Al Munro said:
Anybody had any personal experience with a good-condition masterlinks coming apart, or even the clip coming off? Masterlinks are convenient for occasional off-bike chain cleaning or rear wheel removal, and I've had them on every bike I've owned before the 1100. I'd kinda like to go the masterlink route when it comes time to replace this original chain.
Click to expand...
 
can i change clip type to the other kind of link? also, or jc whitney chains worth a hoot?
 
Do you mean can you change from a clip masterlink to a peened masterlink? Sure can. :-) I've had a couple of J C Whitney chains and had no problems with breakage or losing master link clips, but the ones I had were worn out in less than 1000 miles and I had to adjust them every 100 miles. I spent more money on chain lube with the things than a good chain would have cost me. :-) If you can stand the wallet bite, its is time and money saved to buy the best chain you can. I have never regretted going to a high quality
#630 "O" ring chain. I have only adjusted it once and that was because I wore out the rear tire and needed to replace it.
Tsubaki makes very good quality chain. (others do also) :-)

Earl

rick romero said:
can i change clip type to the other kind of link? also, or jc whitney chains worth a hoot?
Click to expand...
 
thanks earl, looks like ill have to save longer for a chain, im about to make a website (HELP SAVE THE GS FUND!) for donations, yeah right that will work!
 
Rick, when you change to the more expensive chain, check the sprockets for wear. An old stretched chain will round off the sprocket teeth and if you install a new chain on worn sprockets, they will destroy the new chain. Sprocket teeth should have square edges. If they appear at all chisel toothed, replace them.
I have about 15000 miles on my "new" sprockets and chain and there is no noticable wear on anything. Nothing needs adjustment.......just a little chain lube once a week. :-) :-)

Just a note: Some manufacturers make countershaft sprockets that require (and they include) a shim that is to be installed on the countershaft between the sprocket and case to place the sprocket in alignment. You can use a string to check sprocket alignment.

Earl

rick romero said:
thanks earl, looks like ill have to save longer for a chain, im about to make a website (HELP SAVE THE GS FUND!) for donations, yeah right that will work!
Click to expand...
 
yup my front sproket is real bad, rear sproket looks good but for 30$ ill change it.
 
To anyone that's interested, changing to a 530 pitch chain and sprockets shaves some weight (free horsepower and helps handling..a little), costs a little less, and is more than strong enough for anything short of a full-on drag bike. A standard (non o-ring) chain costs even less, and doesn't eat as much horsepower as an o-ring chain, but the trade-off is a little more maintenance. Just some options to consider.
Mike
 
GS1197TX said:
To anyone that's interested, changing to a 530 pitch chain and sprockets shaves some weight (free horsepower and helps handling..a little), costs a little less, and is more than strong enough for anything short of a full-on drag bike. A standard (non o-ring) chain costs even less, and doesn't eat as much horsepower as an o-ring chain, but the trade-off is a little more maintenance. Just some options to consider.
Mike
Click to expand...

I'm going to come asking for advice on that change to the 530 o-ring and sprockets whenever I can get enough miles on to wear out this OEM stuff.

My last revelation was going to chain wax when I had the chains off my (mostly roadgoing) dual purpose bikes; one with o-ring chain and one conventional. I don't have a lot of miles on yet, but this is the only product I've found with zero flingoff, despite lots of fancy promises by all those other products I tried. Yes, I haven't tried ALL the conventional lubes. I know others on the forum claim little or no flingoff from some products I haven't yet tried, but I'm hoping that the wax won't cake up quite as much with the fine dust I travel when I do go offroad.
 
I also tried "chain wax" and found it to be an excellent grinding paste.
It took my chain from fair shape to totally stuffed in next to no time. When I replaced my chain 'I took the opportunity and swapped to 530 and there is a noticable increase in grunt down low. I am trying 90w gear oil at the moment to see how that works, on the Tractor I have always used Castrol aerosol chain lube
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top