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Mearsuring your float levels on VM carbs

  • Thread starter Thread starter Guest
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Guest

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Thought I would post this up as I've described the process several times, including how to use a part from your carb rack to measure the float level the best way. Once you've done this once it's pretty simple and really the best way to ensure your floats are set properly. All you need to do this is a clear hose that fits tights over the choke cable retaining 'thingy'. The photo's are pretty self explanatory but throw any questions if you have them.

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When I've got the rack in the vise I just use a small level and make sure it's fairly level side to side and back to front. The float bowls are put on with only two screws so it's easier to in and out of them. If you find one of your floats needs to be adjusted you just let fuel flow out of the bowl you're working on and take off the float bowl. I have a small flat head screw driver that I have bent about a 70 degrees and it easily bend the tang on the float to make the adjustment. Back on the bowl goes and check again. I just use a small yogurt container to catch the fuel from the bowls as I move from one to next. :)
 
I have always done it on the engine, idling, choke off as per the service manual. Have you checked it again with the engine idling to see how it compares?
 
I thought the fuel level was supposed to be below the lip of the body?
 
I did once on one of the outer bowls and it was basically the same. In the photo's I haven't put any fuel in yet but the level you're aiming for is always where Gatekeeper shows it. How would you ever be able to do this while the carbs are on the bike? You might be able to do the outer carbs, maybe, even their inner screws would be hard to get at but the two inner float bowl screws would be near impossible and you have to take off the float bowls to adjust the flange on the float. Curious.
 
Rob...I am in agreement.

It would seem to me that all the carbs are relatively the same..so..it would seem that if you checked all the float hts and set them very carefull to the same measurements, it SHOULD stand to reason that checcking either 1 or 4 would reflect the relateive levels in 2 and 3.

I myself would just check either 1 or 4 and use that as the overall average of the rest. The differences would be very very slight.
 
azr said:
I did once on one of the outer bowls and it was basically the same. In the photo's I haven't put any fuel in yet but the level you're aiming for is always where Gatekeeper shows it. How would you ever be able to do this while the carbs are on the bike? You might be able to do the outer carbs, maybe, even their inner screws would be hard to get at but the two inner float bowl screws would be near impossible and you have to take off the float bowls to adjust the flange on the float. Curious.
Click to expand...

You can check all four fuel levels easily enough, again look at the service manual. Making any changes is harder but with allen head screws and the proper screwdriver the bowls can be removed on the bike. Whether or not you can make changes on the bike is irrelevant. If you find out one isn't right you can take the carbs off if needed to see why not. I have always checked them, usually they are correct after setting the float height but once in a while one is wrong. For instance if one of the chokes isn't closing completely that carb's fuel level will be way off. You wouldn't know this without the engine running.
 
tkent02 said:
You can check all four fuel levels easily enough, again look at the service manual. Making any changes is harder but with allen head screws and the proper screwdriver the bowls can be removed on the bike. Whether or not you can make changes on the bike is irrelevant. If you find out one isn't right you can take the carbs off if needed to see why not. I have always checked them, usually they are correct after setting the float height but once in a while one is wrong. For instance if one of the chokes isn't closing completely that carb's fuel level will be way off. You wouldn't know this without the engine running.
Click to expand...

It seems like so much extra work (ie if its wrong you take carbs back off) to adjust them on as opposed to his method. As long as they are level in the vice with proper fuel level the difference is negligible to doing it on the bike and half the work.

There is something to be said for sticking to the oem methods but we all know theres easier ways to some.
 
Unless it doesn't work as well. While it is certainly better than nothing, how will a bench test tell you what is happening while it is running?

Actually, 90% of the time, the carbs don't need to come off, so it is a lot less work unless there is a problem.
 
I agree with your logic, I was just curious how much of a difference there could really be. I also have big hands so working in tight areas can be miserable. In the CV write up Bass provides it uses the same method of mounting in a vice.
 
I don't know what I want too do I'm trying to decide that through discussion.
 
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