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Mikuni RS34 for 82 GS1100e with yoshi header and can?

batterup

Forum Apprentice
Mikuni RS34 for 82 GS1100e with yoshi header and can?

I just got off the phone with APE, they sell the ape Pods and the Mikuni RS carbs and i was calling about the RS36 for my bike, but he suggested the RS34 would work better since the engine is stock. I do have the yoshi exhaust and will have pods when i get the RS carbs i just need to know which set to get? Ive had a few people say the RS36 but this guy at APE said i would get better low end and midrange with the RS34. He said i would lose some low end and midrange with the RS36 but maybe gain top end, Im not going to be drag racing, what set of carbs would work best on my bike? These carbs are from $700-$800 so i dont want to buy the wrong set.

Thanks for the help!
 
Now i just spoke to another company who said the RS36 would be the best but the RS34 would work as well, he suggested the RS34 would sacrifice some top end for more low end and midrange where the RS36 would do it all well. I am thinking the RS36 is probably what would work best but i wouldnt mind hearing from people who know first hand about 1100s with these carbs. Thanks for the help!
 
I've had both the RS34's and the RS36's on my 1100E's. What the APE rep said is pretty much right on. What it really comes down to is how you ride, or want to ride. If you like ride with your "fangs out" and wind it up to redline through the gears then go with the 36's. If you ride a little "tamer" and wind it to redline less often then go with the 34's.

Personally I'm not an expert carb tuner so I would rather be a little "under-carbed" then "over-carbed". The smaller carb gives me better throttle response and torque where I spend most of my time riding at the expense of a little top-end power. Like anything else, either one of them can make your bike run like crap if you don't get them setup properly. Unlike CV carbs where the engine takes what it needs by opening the slides with it's vacuum, the RS's are purely mechanical. Whack 'em open and you are suddenly exposing the engine to all that air so all the jetting (idle, needle jet/jet needle, and main) has to be spot on for them to run right.
 
IMHO, If you arent drag racing, why are you buying race carbs? I guess if you dont care about fuel mileage and have money to burn:confused:
A set of BS36 CV carbs would be a better fit, especially if the engine and driveline is stock.
 
I originally put RS 34's on my 82 Katana 1000 with a Kerker 4-1 and it performed well. I removed the 34's to fix a leaking carb issue and replaced them with a set of RS 36's I had. Both carbs performed well but I think the 36's have a little more top end. The RS carbs made my 1000s feel like my 1100e and the throttle response is great.
 
Generally, larger carb and free flowing exhaust give you higher top end power, occasionally at the expense of low end power. For example, my "XLCR" cafe Sportster has a big Mikuni flatslide carb and a Supertrapp with umpteen million plates. It makes great power. But to get it through inspection, I take a bunch of the plates off the exhaust. This brings the exhaust noise down to an acceptable level. It also completely snuffs the top end (must lose 20 hp). BUT, the power on the bottom end actually comes up very noticeably. The Harley is a torque monster as it is, so not having that power on the bottom doesn't bother me when I have it tuned for peak power.

The GS1100 is also a torque monster, but not anywhere near the 1200 twin of the Harley. Given that everyday riding will put you running between 3000 and 6000 rpm with occasional bursts to 9000, I'd tune it to keep the bottom end, so 34mm carb would be my choice.
 
if your ever gonna do a piston kit ect...
get the 36's.
if not then get the 34's...plus there 25 bucks cheaper.
the 36's work well on everyday street bikes(1150's) or 8 second drag bikes.
2 years ago i was getting 700 for 34's and 725 for 36's..thats shipped and brand new in the box.
used sets sell for 300-500 and are a great deal if there not buggered up.
 
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