Modifications to Stock Airbox to clear out the A-frame

[Tenshots1]

Hi All,

I have a 1980 GS550E and am trying desperately to clear out the A-frame of it without causing performance issues. It rides pretty well now and I would hate to ruin it, but I love the look of a cleared A-frame.

So, I have done endless research about Pod Filters and the answer is always that they are a bad idea. Some people can get by with Rejetting and inserting air blockages into the pod filters, but it still seems to be a bad idea overall since the air isnt coming to all of the carbs evenly and in a similar temperature.

Then I had the thought: Would it be possible to keep the air intake, but ditch the air intake box? So, add filtration somewhere within the intake and have the air come in from there. That way, you would get even air disbursement to all carbs, and some reasonable vacuum affect. Or, you could even add a larger pod filter directly to the end of the intake. That seems more promising as well.

I looked all over the internet and had difficulty finding anyone that has done this. I bet someone has, but it is simply difficult to search. What do you guys think? I am decent at how things work, but motorcycles are simply one of my joys. I would love to hear any input. My guess is that I am overlooking something, but maybe not.

 

[sam000lee]

Hi All,

Then I had the thought: Would it be possible to keep the air intake, but ditch the air intake box? So, add filtration somewhere within the intake and have the air come in from there. That way, you would get even air disbursement to all carbs, and some reasonable vacuum affect. Or, you could even add a larger pod filter directly to the end of the intake. That seems more promising as well.

What does this mean?? If you are ditching the air box what are you keeping besides the carbs?
You'll get lots of opinions on the pod 'debate', but the bottom line is that if you want to ditch the air box, get good quality pods and be prepared to either spend $$$ on a jet kit or your time doing plug chops.

 

[nvr2old]

I tried putting velocity stacks on my GS1000 and loved the way they looked. SO cool. It fired right up, idled perfectly..but totally fell on it's face when under load. A complete..fail. I put the stock airbox and a new filter in, and it immediately ran the way it's supposed to..perfect..in all rpm ranges..just like Suzuki meant it to. Pods may be a bit different, and some seem to be able to dial them in, but it takes skill and patience, all to get a particular look. Performance-wise it's hard to beat the stock set-up..dang, though..those velocity stacks looked really cool....

 

[80GS850GBob]

I tried putting velocity stacks on my GS1000 and loved the way they looked. SO cool. It fired right up, idled perfectly..but totally fell on it's face when under load. A complete..fail. I put the stock airbox and a new filter in, and it immediately ran the way it's supposed to..perfect..in all rpm ranges..just like Suzuki meant it to. Pods may be a bit different, and some seem to be able to dial them in, but it takes skill and patience, all to get a particular look. Performance-wise it's hard to beat the stock set-up..dang, though..those velocity stacks looked really cool....

Rejetting is all that's be needed...there's threads here by folks who've done it...

 

[80GS850GBob]

Then I had the thought: Would it be possible to keep the air intake, but ditch the air intake box? So, add filtration somewhere within the intake and have the air come in from there. That way, you would get even air disbursement to all carbs, and some reasonable vacuum affect. Or, you could even add a larger pod filter directly to the end of the intake. That seems more promising as well.

At a guess {trying to understand your question. sorry}, I'd say your asking if you could just keep the rubber air box intake boots and add filter{s} to them...right?

 

[Steve]

What does this mean?? If you are ditching the air box what are you keeping besides the carbs?

Some bikes, like his 550, have separate boxes for the filter and manifold. Two other examples are the '80-and-up 750 and 1100 (4-valve). I think the 650 might have them, too, but the only 650 I have seen regularly had pods, so I don't know for sure.

Yes, re-jetting is necessary. Not because of temperature, not 'because it needs a vacuum', but because you are removing the restriction of the stock airbox. You are simply allowing more air to enter the carbs, so you need to add more gas to the increased airflow. HOW MUCH more gas you need to add will depend on how much more air you have. Different pods will flow differently, as will different pipes and different baffles within those pipes.

.

 

[roeme]

Yep, even if you were to keep the manifold, you'd have to rejet. As has been said, it's not the manifold that restricts flow.

Keeping the manifold makes not much sense on that model. On the 550s it's a bucket'o'pain whenever you have to to carb maintenance, and if you're going in there anyway, rip it out for good.
You'll have to get intimate with your carbs when using pods, and soon enough you'll want to put that piece of sh...plastic into outer orbit (decaying, mind you).

I have no experience yet with pods (it's a future project), but from what I've read so far here and on other forums I'm under the impression that getting stock performance is an involved process, even more so to exceed it.

In conclusion; don't rush things if it runs well currently and prepare well, otherwise there will be a lot of frustration.

 

[Guest]

Hi All,

I have a 1980 GS550E and am trying desperately to clear out the A-frame of it without causing performance issues. It rides pretty well now and I would hate to ruin it, but I love the look of a cleared A-frame.

So, I have done endless research about Pod Filters and the answer is always that they are a bad idea. Some people can get by with Rejetting and inserting air blockages into the pod filters, but it still seems to be a bad idea overall since the air isnt coming to all of the carbs evenly and in a similar temperature.

Then I had the thought: Would it be possible to keep the air intake, but ditch the air intake box? So, add filtration somewhere within the intake and have the air come in from there. That way, you would get even air disbursement to all carbs, and some reasonable vacuum affect. Or, you could even add a larger pod filter directly to the end of the intake. That seems more promising as well.

I looked all over the internet and had difficulty finding anyone that has done this. I bet someone has, but it is simply difficult to search. What do you guys think? I am decent at how things work, but motorcycles are simply one of my joys. I would love to hear any input. My guess is that I am overlooking something, but maybe not.

I haven't done this, but you could keep the plenum and put a single large K&N filter where the box would be. That will increase flow and you will still need to rejet, but it may eliminate the other pod draw backs like side winds. It will not open up the area of the frame like you want. I'm guessing your wanting to go with the cafe look.

 

[sam000lee]

Some bikes, like his 550, have separate boxes for the filter and manifold. Two other examples are the '80-and-up 750 and 1100 (4-valve). I think the 650 might have them, too, but the only 650 I have
.

Thanks for clearing that up.

 

[Guest]

So, I have done endless research about Pod Filters and the answer is always that they are a bad idea. Some people can get by with Rejetting and inserting air blockages into the pod filters, but it still seems to be a bad idea overall since the air isnt coming to all of the carbs evenly and in a similar temperature.

Everyone can get by with rejetting and without hobbling the pods. Your 550 seems to be more of a jetting challenge than the bigger bikes, though.

Performance-wise it's hard to beat the stock set-up..dang, though..those velocity stacks looked really cool....

CV carbs don't seem to much like velocity stacks, but they certainly do look cool. Pods are not as bad as stacks as they do provide some intake vacuum that lets the carbs work acceptably well. As for performance, it depends on how you are defining performance. In terms of power it isn't that hard to beat stock. Pods and a good pipe will add significantly (mine is easily 10% more, probably closer 15% at this point) but it is tougher to do that and equal the driveability of the stock set up at the same time.

Rejetting is all that's be needed...there's threads here by folks who've done it...

Indeed. The smaller bikes seem to be harder to get sorted than the big bikes, though.

I have no experience yet with pods (it's a future project), but from what I've read so far here and on other forums I'm under the impression that getting stock performance is an involved process, even more so to exceed it.

As I said above, it isn't hard to make more power. Keeping the good manners of the stock set up requires effort in terms of being methodical and careful and spending the time necessary to fine tune it carefully.

I haven't done this, but you could keep the plenum and put a single large K&N filter where the box would be. That will increase flow and you will still need to rejet, but it may eliminate the other pod draw backs like side winds.

My 1100E came to me set up like that. It didn't run that well even though it had been dyno tuned by a local shop for the set up. It would start and idle OK and ran fine at full throttle but it had some hiccups at part throttle that were annoying and a nuisance for street riding. I think it could be made to run OK with that arrangement but I didn't bother trying. I went straight to pods and sorted the jetting for them instead.


Mark

 

[Tenshots1]

Wide array of responses. Thanks guys! I'm surprised how many said that going to pods were possible, as I keep hearing back and forth everywhere I go. I don't mind tinkering with things, but want to avoid getting overly frustrated.

Have you guys had better success by blocking some of the airflow in the pods? I have seen some people place plastic or aluminum inside the pods in order to block some air and also push the airflow to the tip of the pods, which makes the flow more consistent when riding at speed.

If if anyone has a 550, and suggestions on where to start with jetting? I figured I need to start somewhere. I guess I'll have to get my planned 4-1 exhaust before jetting.

 

[Guest]

Wide array of responses. Thanks guys! I'm surprised how many said that going to pods were possible, as I keep hearing back and forth everywhere I go. I don't mind tinkering with things, but want to avoid getting overly frustrated.

Have you guys had better success by blocking some of the airflow in the pods? I have seen some people place plastic or aluminum inside the pods in order to block some air and also push the airflow to the tip of the pods, which makes the flow more consistent when riding at speed.

If if anyone has a 550, and suggestions on where to start with jetting? I figured I need to start somewhere. I guess I'll have to get my planned 4-1 exhaust before jetting.

Well the good thing is once you get rid of the air box, it's really simple to pull the carbs to try different jets. I'd start with three sizes up from what you have in there now and get jets up and down from the size you chose, or call Dynojet and see if they have a kit for the 550.

 

[Tenshots1]

Well the good thing is once you get rid of the air box, it's really simple to pull the carbs to try different jets. I'd start with three sizes up from what you have in there now and get jets up and down from the size you chose, or call Dynojet and see if they have a kit for the 550.

Will do!

By the way guys, i happened to come across a custom GS550 that has exactly what I was talking about. Checkout the link. Its a modified airbox so that he could clear the A-frame.

http://www.bikeexif.com/eastern-spirit-suzuki-gs550

 

[80GS850GBob]

Will do!

By the way guys, i happened to come across a custom GS550 that has exactly what I was talking about. Checkout the link. Its a modified airbox so that he could clear the A-frame.

http://www.bikeexif.com/eastern-spirit-suzuki-gs550

I've seen that one before...nice. The rearward pic of the side intake is a little vague for details, but you might be able to contact the shop and ask for more pics or how they did it.
The air box had to really be modified if they started with the oem piece. Myself, I'd suggest using the main piece like they did, but run a large K&N oval filter off of it. Yes, it would take up some room in the A frame, but other than using pods, this is the alternative. My old Invader 440 snowmobile ran a pair of K&N tapered oval filters with a 15 degree angle on them...K&N makes all sorts of oddball filters. They also had "pre-filter covers" on them to combat against snow powder clogging the filter up since the air box was removed.
Wrong year, but for those who might not know what we're dealing with here-
http://www.babbittsonline.com/oemparts/a/suz/50d3f8a7f8700230d8b4cf8c/air-cleaner

 

[gustovh]

The engine in the link is pre 1980 and is using VM carbs, a whole different cat when it comes to carbs. I use pods on both my 850 and 1100 L's and recently added a Delvic system to the 850 and now have to readjust the needles for the mid range, but anybody that knows that bike will tell ya it runs just fine on pods.

V

 

[nvr2old]

This is how I did the air box and filter on my Honda 550. Stock box, outside K&N. Works great, no jet mods at all.

CB550-lft. by [url=https://www.flickr.com/photos/156482494@N02

 

[Fjbj40]

CV carbs don't seem to much like velocity stacks, but they certainly do look cool. Pods are not as bad as stacks as they do provide some intake vacuum that lets the carbs work acceptably well. As for performance, it depends on how you are defining performance. In terms of power it isn't that hard to beat stock. Pods and a good pipe will add significantly (mine is easily 10% more, probably closer 15% at this point) but it is tougher to do that and equal the driveability of the stock set up at the same.

Mark[/QUOTE]



Maybe that explains my my bst34ss with KN pods, cv flatslide carbs off a gsxr, are not smooth like everybody says cv carbs are. They are on off from the idle position when driving, say turning into a street.

VM33's are going back on anyways.

Daryl

 

[Guest]

Maybe that explains my my bst34ss with KN pods, cv flatslide carbs off a gsxr, are not smooth like everybody says cv carbs are. They are on off from the idle position when driving, say turning into a street.

Try a 1/4 turn richer on the mixture screws. If that doesn't help try another 1/4 turn. If that doesn't help then they need a more fundamental rework and the VM33's are the way to go.


Mark