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Monty campbell x pipe

  • Thread starter Thread starter andrews gs
  • Start date Start date
A

andrews gs

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I'm looking to do some changes this winter. I was wondering has anyone used this x-pipe that Monty Campbell makes. It says it has 3 different powerbands. 5k,8k,12k rpms this sounds to good to be true. Can anyone tell me if they have used them. Do they perform as well as they say they do. Thanks for the help in advance.
 
Search back, this comes up from time to time. Ask him for before and after performance numbers. There are none. If you even ask, he attacks you for being an idiot.
 
And please give us some details about that 12k powerband. :-\\\

Let us know how it feels when you hit it. :encouragement:

.
 
And please give us some details about that 12k powerband. :-\\\

Let us know how it feels when you hit it. :encouragement:

.
I would never rev it that high. I just thought they claimed 12k powerband on a bike that redlines at 9500. kinda dumb makes them look like they don't know what there talking about.
 
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So what would you say is the best pipe on the market v&h side winder or is there something better.
 
So what would you say is the best pipe on the market v&h side winder or is there something better.
If you ever plan on making a right-hand turn, the sidewinder is the WORST pipe.

it was designed for max flow at peak RPM on a lowered bike that only goes straight.
Kinda makes you think "drag racing", doesn't it? :-k

.
 
This is a pretty interesting question that I think has several answers... depending on what you consider to be the "best" pipe. Best for what? Peak power, or peak torque? Best fuel economy and part throttle response? Broadest power? Best construction? Best ground clearance? Then it can change depending on your combination. A pipe that may not have any power on a stock 1100 may be awesome on a larger engine... or just the opposite. Then theres camshaft and carburation... maybe the pipe is designed to make great power at 10,000rpm but your cams and carbs stop flowing at 9,000. Then theres gearing... maybe it makes great top end power but your highway gears and wide gear spacing make the bike slower for say 1/4 mile.
So what are you planning on using the bike for (racing 1/4 mile, touring, top speed, cruising, or around town stop and go?) What do you plan for your final combination? Are you going to be adding larger carbs, cams, big bore kit, ported head, lower gears? If you know what you want at the end it'll be cheaper and easier to start gathering the parts for your final goal.
Im not trying to discourage you at all... in fact I think its great when people experiment around on their bikes to make them "better" for what they want to use them for. My headers are a homebuilt combination that I bought from a member here that is probably way bigger than I currently need, and my carbs are probably a little bigger than I need, but I have a big bore kit waiting to install along with a better flowing head and bigger cams. So everything should work together much better as a final combination than it does on my current stock 1100.
 
Have any of u ran Moto gp werks exhaust. I saw someone's post on revamping a katana with there exhaust. looked pretty sweet.
 
This is a pretty interesting question that I think has several answers... depending on what you consider to be the "best" pipe. Best for what? Peak power, or peak torque? Best fuel economy and part throttle response? Broadest power? Best construction? Best ground clearance? Then it can change depending on your combination. A pipe that may not have any power on a stock 1100 may be awesome on a larger engine... or just the opposite. Then theres camshaft and carburation... maybe the pipe is designed to make great power at 10,000rpm but your cams and carbs stop flowing at 9,000. Then theres gearing... maybe it makes great top end power but your highway gears and wide gear spacing make the bike slower for say 1/4 mile.
So what are you planning on using the bike for (racing 1/4 mile, touring, top speed, cruising, or around town stop and go?) What do you plan for your final combination? Are you going to be adding larger carbs, cams, big bore kit, ported head, lower gears? If you know what you want at the end it'll be cheaper and easier to start gathering the parts for your final goal.
Im not trying to discourage you at all... in fact I think its great when people experiment around on their bikes to make them "better" for what they want to use them for. My headers are a homebuilt combination that I bought from a member here that is probably way bigger than I currently need, and my carbs are probably a little bigger than I need, but I have a big bore kit waiting to install along with a better flowing head and bigger cams. So everything should work together much better as a final combination than it does on my current stock 1100.

Well this may sound stupid. At the end of all the modifications I would like to have a 1260 big bore, hot cams,exhaust with better top end power,this is the stupid part but I want to try and chrome the engine and trans never seen something like that on this type of bike. About 2 inches longer swing arm. Try and reduce the weight of it about 100lb if possible the bike of course. And revamp pretty much everything new cam tensioner and chain better flowing heads or port and polish stocks ones new front forks more modern without the anti-dive crap. The list goes on from there.
 
The biggest performance increase that comes from a header is not horsepower, it's the reduction in weight by getting rid of the stock exhaust. The change to a more pleasing exhaust not which is subjective then to playing with jetting.

I went though this with my first 1100e. I made several jet changes to the point of not remembering how it ran before any changes. You need some dyno time for best combinations and a dyno pull before any changes for a baseline.

Get hold of the X Pipe guy and ask him how he would guarantee his performance increases and agreed to fully refund your money if these improvement guarantees aren't met.

Or, just buy a V&H header from the least expensive seller, install it, enjoy and avoid the assache of the futile X Boy snipe hunt.
 
Well this may sound stupid. At the end of all the modifications I would like to have a 1260 big bore, hot cams,exhaust with better top end power,this is the stupid part but I want to try and chrome the engine and trans never seen something like that on this type of bike. About 2 inches longer swing arm. Try and reduce the weight of it about 100lb if possible the bike of course. And revamp pretty much everything new cam tensioner and chain better flowing heads or port and polish stocks ones new front forks more modern without the anti-dive crap. The list goes on from there.

Regarding the engine work you should talk to Rapid Ray on this forum. He can sort out what will actually work for you and make it happen. The 100lb weight reduction isn't going to happen if you want it to look like a GS1100E when you are done, unless you want to do all new carbon fiber bodywork and fuel tank, expensive aftermarket wheels and brakes and the like. I think you can realistically get 40-50lb off (a light 4-1 exhaust, pod filters, small signal lights, strip all the extra bits off), but anything more than that is going to be a huge amount of effort and $$$. I can't comment on the chroming, that seems pointless to me.


Mark
 
I know back in the 80's some friends and I went to the track with a couple different pipes and a stock GS1100 and tried them out to see which one we thought was the best. One of them was a Maxi-X pipe I think they are still around. But the X pipe seemed to pull real good down low (torque) but would not let the bike rev out kinda just went flat like a rev limiter. I do remember we never used it again. So if you are shooting for that 12k this is defiantly not your pipe.
 
I know back in the 80's some friends and I went to the track with a couple different pipes and a stock GS1100 and tried them out to see which one we thought was the best. One of them was a Maxi-X pipe I think they are still around. But the X pipe seemed to pull real good down low (torque) but would not let the bike rev out kinda just went flat like a rev limiter. I do remember we never used it again. So if you are shooting for that 12k this is defiantly not your pipe.

Do you remember if you rejetted for any of them? I'm just curious. After messing with the carbs on my bike with the wideband o2, Ive come to see that the jetting for the 4-1 Yoshi pipe I was running is allot different than the 4-2-1 Yoshi pipe Im running now. I can only speculate that the "X" pipe could require rejetting to get it to run at its best. Don't get me wrong, it may be a real piece of crap or it may be great, Im just saying it may not have needing some fine tuning.
 
Posplayr saw the same thing on his (wideband 02 monitored) 1160? when switching between 4:1 & 4:2:1 :)
 
I have had very good luck with the 4-1 in my signature. It really puts the Vance & Hines system I replaced to shame. Built power over the entire power band. My bike is mostly stock, perhaps the difference is because I can hear what is going on with this system when tuning. No popping when downshifting and a nice kick in the ass at or near 6,500 RPM.
 
Posplayr saw the same thing on his (wideband 02 monitored) 1160? when switching between 4:1 & 4:2:1 :)

I've got his old exhaust and I'm noticing the same thing. So far it takes a little higher setting (lower clip position) on the needle and allot less on the main jet than my old 4-1 Yoshi.
 
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